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Installation of Bristleflex

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sunkissedhealey

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Greetings:

I recently ordered the “Bristleflex” from McGregor’s along with the bits and pieces for installation. The Anderson/Moment (2000) book states on page 171 that “At the top of the rear door pillar the seal runs along the top of the inner rear-quarter trim panel about 4 inches, covered at the end by a zinc-plated ½ wide clip.” The attachment is from the B.M.C. Service Limited Mechanical Service Parts List for series BJ7 & BJ8 that illustrate items #10 & #11, rubber caps, at the end of the fuzzy seal. Is this correct? If so, does the zinc clip go over the rubber cap or is it fitted next to the cap? Where does item #9 (a screw) go? If anyone can offer any installation tips or post a picture of the top of the rear door pillar showing how the seal ends (with/without rubber caps, placement of the zinc clip, etc.), I would appreciate it. Many thanks in advance for any help.

Rob
 

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  • 228316-Bristleflex.pdf
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Rob,

Take a look at the photos on page 174 of the Anderson/Moment book. The middle picture on the left shows the chrome metal clip installed on the quarter panel. That same picture and the one above it shows the rubber caps that go on the top frame seals. I'm not sure why the factory book shows the rubber caps for the door seals .. I think just using the metal clip is required. I think the #9 screw goes through the door seal into the sheet metal flange near the top of the door opening. My BJ7 has a hole near the top for this screw. You may or may not need this depending on how well the bristleflex attaches and how accurate you want to be.
 
John,

I saw the picture on page 174 of Anderson/Moment's book, but was confused because the B.M.C. parts book illustrates a rubber end cap on the fuzzy seal. I didn't think that it was right, but thought that I'd ask if anyone knows differently. This will be the last time (yeah, right) that I replace the Furflex; therefore, if a strategic placement of a screw (or screws?) is necessary to keep the stuff in place, I would really like to hear from those that have had success in keeping their fuzzy door seals in place where they belong.

Rob
 
Hi Rob, the only tip I can offer you is at the top of the rear door the seal has to make a right angle bend to fit snugly along the top of the rear quarter panel. Using a pair of Dikes cut the fuzzy side only to ease this transition. Note there are no rubber caps used on these door trims.--Fwiw---Keoke
 
I hate to beat a dead horse but.....
I don't have a copy of Anderson's book. I searched and read the old posts on this forum about this subject. Looking at the usuall suspects parts cataloges, they all show these rubber ends which I seem to have a large supply of. I couldn't find any pictures of the top of the " Bristleflex " as it makes this 90 degree turn on the BJ8. I also don't seem to have these end clips ?
I installed the standard aluminum door seal before I found this forum and since I didn't know any better, I drilled some small holes through one side of the seal and edge of the body so I could pop rivet it in place. I didn't take the 90 degree turn and run for four inches as is discussed earlier. I also don't like the fit that this original sized door seal makes to the interior panel of the door in all places. I have some larger sized seals from moss that run along the edges of the windshield where the vent window frames gets near to the windshield frame. Is this the same thing as Mcgregor's Bristelflex ? They say they have four sizes, If I want a larger size seal for the doors, like moss's side windshield seals, which size do I ask for from McGregor's ? And last but not least, would someone please post a picture showing the door seal installation at the top near the seatbacks that shows the 90 degree turn and the last four inches with the hold down clip(s) on a BJ8 ? Thanks for any additional info and especially a picture ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
One more thing, can someone also post a picture of how they finished off the other end of the door seal that ends near the side of the dash ? Does this end get those rubber caps that we all see in the parts catalogs ? Thanks again /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Hi Ed,
This is the pic of the AM book page 174. Rear pillar, attached. Don't know if this is what you are looking for.
I will also send Front pillar & the text that goes with them.
D
 

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  • 230591-Doorlatchpillar.jpg
    230591-Doorlatchpillar.jpg
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No ED no little rubber caps.There is a small apperature just under the dash top that the end of the seal is concealed in. Attachment #1 is incorrect the length of the seal riding along the top of the rear quarter is too long and the small chrome finishers fitted over the ends are missing.---Keoke The old stuff Moss was selling is not Bristleflex. Also note top [Hood] seals and door seals are different.
 
Dave, Thanks a million for the pictures ! That is exactly what I needed to see. I have mine all FUBARed. Looks like I will also need to buy some more piping for around the aluminum trim in addition to some bristelflex....
Keoke, The seals that I have for the sides of the windshield frame are a lot larger than the seals that I will be replacing around the doors. I like the larger size seal and wonder if this sized seal will work around the door ? Which one of the four sizes of
McGregor bristelflex seals are the recommended size ?
Can I use a larger sized seal to ensure a better fit to my interior door panels ? Thanks again to both of you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Now that I took another look, I can see the " depression " in the metal that was designed to accept the top of the front end of the door seal. I didn't notice this when I was installing the aluminum based seal and cut it off too short. I also cut it off too short in the rear because I didn't know about the 90 degree twist and then run along the interior trim piece. So I guess the only questions I have left are about the recommended size bristelflex and can I get away with using the next larger size, ( provided that the recommended size is not already the largest one they make )?
 
Dave , The 1st picture answered another question. I see that the rubber ends that we all thought went on the end of the door seal go on the ends of something in the hood frame. Also If you look closely at this picture, you can see a metal piece on the end of the seal. It is at an angle and hard to recognize.
 
Hi Ed,
I don't know if this helps or if K agrees. A direct quote from the Feb. 2005 A-H Concours Registry guide lines:

"On BJ7/8, the rubber seal runs about four inches along the top of the rear quarter trim panel into a zinc-plated 1/2" wide clip. Door seals on BJ series cars also have two #4 flathead Phillips sheet metal screws 1/4 inch in length that secure the seal to the top edge of the rear seal flange and one that secures the seal to the rear trim panel just forward of the finisher clip."
D
 
Thanks Dave. I think I understand now that I have seen your picture. One picture is worth 10,000 words for something like this.
 
HI ED, yes Martin makes the material with two larger tubing sizes.I believe the largest of which is the one for the TR6 Cars. Dave, I know about the small worthless screw used to secure the door seal to the top of the door post. The one in the rear Quarter I have never seen in an original car. I wonder why they would put a screw ahead of the finisher when the finisher is intended to hide the end?If you are going concours follow the guide line if you are putting your car back together as original follow the tracks that the car has left. Problem here is, somebody has probably wiped out the tracks before you got the car---Keoke
 
I made the mistake of telling Martin McGregor that "I'm not in any hurry concerning the shipment of my order". It has been a month, and I still don't have my Bristeflex yet. Martin called me on Thursday and said that he was shipping it that day. In all fairness, he has traveled the show circuit for a couple of weeks, and I really wasn't in a hurry. If you're in a hurry to get your stuff, its best to tell him so. If you're not in a hurry, be patient. This is just a heads up. Sometime during July I hope to get the Bristleflex installed.

Rob
 
Keoke,
Don't shoot the messenger. I just quoted the "experts". Heaven knows, I've got a lot of "incorrect stuff on my car. All for the better as far as I'm concerned. Wouldn't think of entering Concours. However, I DO have the originals of the parts I have changed & the next owner can put it back like it's supposed to be, if they wish.
D
 
, OK, OK Im sorry ---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Just to throw my 2 cents in the mix /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif I don't care for the Bristleflex product that I have seen for a concours restoration. The shape of the seal is not close to the original in size and shape(look in the MSPL .. Plate N1, illustration 33 for the correct end section) and the "velour" is some type of flocking, not real velour sewn to the rubber like the originals. The good thing about the bristleflex is that it uses a steel core so they hold on. Fortunately there is a supplier working on correct door, window and windshield seals based on original parts. They have the rubber portion and steel core completed but having problems getting someone to sew the velour/fabric on the seals but should be over that hurdle pretty soon. It's good that there will be a choice for concours quality seals since we have good driver quality seals from MacGregor.

Cheers,
John
 
I just finished placing the order at MacGregor's. Basil should get some credit since I did it online from his sponsor link. Thanks to all for the advice and especially the pictures.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
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