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TR2/3/3A Inner sill replacement procedure ?

JeffW

Freshman Member
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I could use some advice on how to proceed with the replacement of The inner sill and the floors along with the rusted out parts that can be seen in my pictures. I plan to make repair panels to patch the rotted areas.From what I have read here the A post is spot welded along the outside onto the Inner sill.

Where are the spot welds that attach the B post to the sill?

Do I need to remove the rear quarter panel?

I'm thinking that my plan of attack should be to remove all the rusted out Sill along with the outside edge of the floor which should allow me to fit the new sill in place and get it bolted down. Once I have that in place I would plan to remove the rest of the floor and position that. Finally I would make the patch panels and weld them in there correct position relative to the new floor and sill.

I would appreciate some advice as to if I'm heading in the right direction with my plan.

Thanks Jeff











 
Yes, unfortunately you will need to cut an access panel in the bottom of the b post dogleg to get to the internal structure of the b post. You will then see where this attaches to the inner sill.

You can get an idea of what it looks like in my video here

https://youtu.be/V-0BE5Nno_Y

Cheers
Tush
 
I would get some measurements of the rough opening of the door at the top and bottom with clear reference points, the exact hole size, and then brace it with some something, but have the number also. Do one side at a time. Maybe Save the lip in the front kick panel at least for now or maybe for the whole project, so if you want, you can run some screws through it or clamp to it while you set new sill and floor. The line in the fold that goes down onto the inner sill is probably very close even with the waves; I bet it is straight and will help you line the sill and set the end. I did it that way so everything is not floating in the air. I would cut the A post free with a cutting wheel and die grinder.


The B post area sheet metal is probably very thin judging from the back. Can you sandblast that area around the B post to see what it looks like? Or very gently grind the paint off? Or even hand sand because chances are you will have to do what Tush did.

steve
 
Whatever you do, make sure that after you tack or clamp the sill in where you think it needs to be, fit the door/front fender up to do a fit check before you weld it solid.

Cheers
Tush
 
Thanks Steve, I'll be taking some measurements this weekend before I do any cutting. I have it pretty well braced but the measurements will be insurance for any movement. The bottom of the B pillar has some rust as does the bottom of the wheel arch. I think I will do as Tush did and cut out a piece for access and removal of the rusted part of the arch and replace with a new metal patch.
Thanks for the suggestions.

Jeff
 
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