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Incentive restored [long]...

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Randy Forbes

Randy Forbes

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I decided I wanted to do something different for my Healey's instrument panel quite a (embarassing) number of years ago. I love the engine-turned (damascened) panels of the classic sports/race models of the 20s-30s, like Auburn, Bugatti & Duesenbergs.

About four years ago I took an "extra" dash panel (one with too many holes) and picked out an entry level milling machine. The sole requirement of the mill was that the table travel could accommodate the dimensions of the raised portion. Satisfied with the results of that test, I took to the "good" panel with a 1/2" round rubberized abrasive. In the "old days" craftsmen used wooden dowels and valve lapping paste!

Fast forward to about two years ago when the Healey was being painted down in Florida...
The idiot that painted the dash goofed up and polished the three days of my labor off the face of the (earth) panel. I didn't have the enthusiasm to redo my labor intensive project and let it languish...

Well, a couple of days ago, armed with a 3/4" rubberized abrasive this time, I dug in again. I'm pleased with the outcome and think the 3/4" was a better choice than the original 1/2" pattern.

het_001.jpg


het_002.jpg


het_003.jpg


Maybe now I can muster up the drive to get that rechromed windshield frame assembled...
 
Randy,

Really nice job .... The results look great! What is the "rubberized abrasive" you used? Is it one of those small sanding discs?

Ah, the windshield frame. I'm not looking forward to putting mine back together either ... especially the resetting of the rivets after chroming. I think the rest will bolt back together without much hassle since I'm using the same glass again. We'll see!

Cheers,
John
 
Randy,
A truly unique & great looking finish. I like it!!

John,
I have used various "Craytex" rubberized abrasive wheels to do much the same on gun parts. You DO have to have a perfect & uniform surface before "engine turning".

Eastwood has a kit # 13118 that will do much the same.
D
 
Looks great Randy!! If it's worth doing right, it's worth doing twice. At least that's what I keep telling myself.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Randy,

Really nice job .... The results look great! What is the "rubberized abrasive" you used? Is it one of those small sanding discs?

Ah, the windshield frame. I'm not looking forward to putting mine back together either ... especially the resetting of the rivets after chroming. I think the rest will bolt back together without much hassle since I'm using the same glass again. We'll see!

Cheers,
John

[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks John, and Dave and Greg!

This is the product I used and it would conceivably do hundreds of similar jobs before expiring.
https://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PARTPG=NNSRAR2&PMPXNO=3299993

I did purchase one of the Eastwood kits about ten years ago; I'd recommend just getting the round abrasive vs. the kit.

The real trick is to be able to move the table in increments equal to half the diameter of the abrasive stick; that's why I chose a milling machine with x-y-z axis control.
 
That is really great looking. I have to respect anyone with that kind of patience. Especially when it shows so well in the finished product.
 
It really does look fantastic. And you achieved that customized race car look. As for the idiot for polished it off, did you consider using his nose as the abrasive? I can just see the guy saying, "uh, I think we have a problem." There is no tool that can do as much damage as a weak mind. But at least your hard work paid off.
 
Hey, Randy, That is one fine looking dash! It goes so well with the steering wheel aluminum.... Any thoughts about doing the wheel spokes? Hm...perhaps that would be a bit "much"... I think it looks really great the way it is now. I remember seeing a Deusenberg at the Pebble Beach Concuours once that has stuck in my mind for years - it was so beautiful! Your idea looks great in reality! Congrats!
 
There must've been something in that abrasive's dust...

Last night I figured out why I couldn't make my new (exterior) door handles work, and corrected it. I got one of them fitted today to prove the theory; the darn flatbar on the backside was pinned at the wrong angle. Simple matter to drive out the pins, redrill the holes in the flatbar and knock the pins back in.

Today I touched up the dash's paint on the perimeter of the raised engine-turned portion. I think I'll forego my plans of shooting a clearcoat over the bare aluminum; too much risk of picking up debris before it dries.

But the big accomplishment was getting the rechromed windshield frame, new glass and seals assembled tonight.

As stressed out as I was about (finally) getting that behind me was nothing compared to how worn out I was after getting the frame to body seal fitted! I used so much silicone, I won't be able to hold on to anything until Friday /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif I found the trick was to hook the forward side of the seal in the track and spray silicone/work the back side in about 4" at a time. Dont be surprised if anyone that's ever fitted one of those seals doesn't offer to do yours when the time comes!
 
[ QUOTE ]
I think I'll forego my plans of shooting a clearcoat over the bare aluminum; too much risk of picking up debris before it dries.


[/ QUOTE ]

Randy, I clear coat parts all the time with automotive clear w/hardener. I usually get some small specks in the clear but it is easy to wet sand them out and then use some fine compound to bring the shine back. It comes out smooth as glass. Without the clear coat I think your aluminum finish is going to get dull pretty quickly. I would avoid using spray can clears because I have seen them yellow easily but maybe someone else has a good brand to suggest.

Congrats on the windshield!

Cheers,
John
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I think I'll forego my plans of shooting a clearcoat over the bare aluminum; too much risk of picking up debris before it dries.


[/ QUOTE ]

Randy, I clear coat parts all the time with automotive clear w/hardener. I usually get some small specks in the clear but it is easy to wet sand them out and then use some fine compound to bring the shine back. It comes out smooth as glass. Without the clear coat I think your aluminum finish is going to get dull pretty quickly. I would avoid using spray can clears because I have seen them yellow easily but maybe someone else has a good brand to suggest.

Congrats on the windshield!

Cheers,
John

[/ QUOTE ]
Well, then I'll reconsider...

I'll have to look back at my "P-sheets" but PPG has a clear that is compatible with the Delstar acrylic enamel w/DXR-80 polyurethane hardener and is also formulated to be sprayed over bare aluminum. It's either Delclear or Delglo (one of them is for bare aluminum and the other is not; they both go over Delstar). I'll test it out on my trial dash (also engine turned).

Yes, very glad to have the windshield assembled. Big step!
 
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