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I'm Screwed, part II.....

TR6BILL

Luke Skywalker
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Well, I have the left half shaft out, brake lines removed, fuel tank drained and out. I have the diff suspended in mid air at the rear with a nice aluminum level stretched across the frame. Holds the diff approximately level 'cause I have no rear frame cross member anymore. I have to rig a cradle for the the diff to fit atop my floor jack. When I do, I will drop the diff so I can install the front stiffener plates from TRF. Will have to wait for the new cross member to come in, fit it and call the welder. This will entail several trips for him unless the do the front welding myself. Then coat the new piece with some frame paint and start the whole process in reverse. It will be at least a month before I can get this finished. Interestingly, the four bolts holding the diff to the half shaft were all slightly loose holding the two flanges together. That was a little worrisome. I noticed they were OE bolt but new all-metal locking nuts. I kinda think the OE bolts stretched a bit with all that torque. ALL hardware going back in will be new and grade 8 (and not from Lowes grade 8). Have a bolt specialty shop that services the oil industry in the area that will supply the good stuff.

My fingers are sore and my back hurts. Time to take it easy for a few days.

Are we having fun yet?
 
I know you don't drink Bill. Save the hi ball for me> :jester:
 
Interesting what one finds when you go back into an area that you rebuilt in past years. Yes, the rubber brake hoses from the frame to the TA were showing signs of cracking. The whole car was rebuilt with new parts from 2000 to 2003. Replacing those with armored lines. And changing all fluids. (Yes, Brosky, I am going back with paint-remover fluid). The rear brake pads have a few more miles left on them, will leave them be. Greasing all U-joints, otherwise inaccessible. Changing all fasteners to new, high-end stuff. I know I certed the left TA with new fittings, the right was solid and still is. May go with new studs as there is some corrosion (aluminum and steel don't get along). New bump stops are in order. Reinforced front diff mounts will be done. Change a leaking fuel sensor gasket. Of course new cross member but might add a plate or two to the frame in the rear just to stiffen it up a bit. When I bought this particular car (I looked for 2 years), it was completely rust free, frame and body, so everything is still good to go. Trailer queen it ain't. Well, the first year after completion it won a few trophys but now it gets used. It's my Viagra, if you will.
 
Bill - and observations on how well the bushings and rubber parts have held up under time and use and if you can see a difference in the longevity of the bits by vendor?

You made good progress - I'd need a drink too!
 
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