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I'm an Austin Healy Newbie!

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hundredsixinsf

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Just purchased my first Austin Healey. It's a 1959 100-6 BN4. It's been sitting since '77, but amazingly it runs and drives. I can't get over how amazing the exhaust sounds! It is the best sounding sports car I've ever owned by far.

Anyway, it has a couple of issues that I need some assistance with. One is a clicking noise in first gear. I haven't driven the car more than a couple miles, but did notice that it seemed to go away once the car warmed up a bit. Or maybe just was a bit quieter. But it definitely clicks in first gear, when warming up. All other gears are fine. What could this be and is it typical of AH's? How much would it cost to get fixed? I'm thinking of purchasing a fully rebuilt transmission, but my 100-6 is matching numbers with it's original engine and transmission, so maybe best to just have mine rebuilt.

The next issue I've noticed is gas coming from the overflow pipe. The original carbs likely need to be rebuilt. Is it likely a bad needle and seat that's causing this gas overflow? The engine is running very rich.

Oh, another question, what size radial tires are correct and are available for my 100-6? Any particular brands that folks feel are best? I assume I still need tubes with radials? Do I need the wire wheel spokes "tuned"?

Thanks,
Steve the AH Newbie in San Francisco /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
 
Welcome to the forum.

The clicking noise may be a chipped tooth on a gear. This is not typical or normal.

[ QUOTE ]
Is it likely a bad needle and seat that's causing this gas overflow?

[/ QUOTE ]

Check first that there's not a bit of dirt creating the problem by interfering with the needle's seating.

[ QUOTE ]
I assume I still need tubes with radials? Do I need the wire wheel spokes "tuned"?


[/ QUOTE ]

Yes to tubes, its the wire wheels not the tires that make them necessary. For tuning wire wheels:

https://www.team.net/sol/tech/truwire.html

"Let's talk about maintenance. Once each year, for a car that is driven regularly (more often if the weather is wet or very dusty), the wheels must be removed, clean and grease applied to the splines of both wheel and hub. Use a grease that has a high silicon content or a marine waterproof type to prevent entry of water and other foreign elements. While performing this ritual of upkeep, each spoke should be inspected for looseness or over tightening. A simple way is to run a screwdriver or other metallic object around the wheel, touching each spoke in turn. A mistightened spoke can be detected by listening for any change in the ring produced by the contact of the tool on the spokes. A dull thud indicates looseness and a twangy sound, higher pitched than the others, denotes an overtightened one. Any defect in the spokes must be remedied before further use, lest deterioration of the wheel results."

Hope this helps, and that the BCF is useful for you....
 
Do you hear the clicking at idle, when you are not in gear? Where does it seem to be coming from? Welcome to the forum!
 
Welcome to this forum. There are many knowledgeable folks here. Many of your questions are likely to be ones covered in previous posts so I strongly suggest you use the search tool and dip into the knowledge base for answers. Best wishes with you new car, and enjoy the journey...and let's see some pictures of the beast.
 
Welcome,

I hope you will join the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club. There are a few more events this driving season.

I will be in San Francisco all next week, perhaps we can meet.

Tracy
 
Start by changing the fluid in the transmission. Be sure you use the right fluid. There was a discussion about fluid a week or so ago on this forum.
 
Hi Steve,

The first gears are straight cut, not helical so they are noisier to begin with and wear faster than 2nd, 3rd, 4th. I'm sure you've noticed 1st is not sychronised so sliding the gears into second will aligned for a smoother shift into first (from a stand still). I have a worn noisey first gear .. sounds "clunky".. but a change to Redline MT-90 helped considerably with the noise (and helped to make shifting smoother). I don't spend a lot of time in first because it is such a 'stump puller' ratio, electing instead to start out in second if the car is not on an uphill incline. It is possible you have large chips. When you change the gear box oil use a magnet to see how much metal/chunks you find. The OD drain plug (very large plug with notches around the perimeter) has a screen inside and possibly magnetic rings to keep the metal out of circulation so that's a good place to check (the OD and gearbox share the same oil). The top of the gear box unbolts easily if you want to inspect the gears before pulling the gearbox. You should be able to find someone in your area to help you with the inspection.

Cheers,
John
 
Steve, Welcome to the forum...

I agree with your opinion of the Healey [ QUOTE ]
can't get over how amazing the exhaust sounds! It is the best sounding sports car I've ever owned by far.


[/ QUOTE ]

Although My B and my A have a great sound too, the Healey just sounds so, well, British... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Tracy, the calender of events on the GGAHC is missing. (maybe its only mine and they don't want me to come anymore) But they are a great group of people and they do a lot of interesting and fun things.
Steve, what part of SF? I was born there and lived there 20 years. I was just north of the Golden Gate Park. They use to race sports cars in the park with hay bales. We use to sit in the trees and watch. (safer up there, no banked curves). Morgans, MGs, Jags Boxters and many others. I always remember the smells and sounds.
If the sound is only in the first gear, leave it be. As stated by John, you wont be in it long if at all.
 
Steve - Welcom to the Forum - you will be able to find the answers here for any 100-six questions you may have.
I would highly recommend checking out Derek Job's web site www.healeysix.net and sending a pic of your 100-Six for his gallery. No financial interest.
Jim /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
As one who finds it occasionaly difficult to shift into first gear (car at dead stop) especially if the car is well warmed up, I would shift into second and then up to first. Usually that would do the trick. A tip from a mechanic, however, started me shifting to third and then first. I am not familiar with the inside of the Healey tranny, but the third to first shift seems to work the best if the trans doesn't want to go into first. Someone else can explain why.
 
Hey Steve,
Welcome to the forum.
Being a new Healey owner, I can't offer any advise on this topic. So good luck with that.

Maybe someday we'll meet at a show or have a ride.

Soon I'll be finished with my car and would like to invite the local guys here to caravan a ride to Alice's Restaurant.
Have you been there? It's the perfect place. Nice drive, nice place to enjoy lunch and nice place to look at each others cars and motorcylces. It's like a car show.
Cheers, Roger
 
[ QUOTE ]
Tracy, the calender of events on the GGAHC is missing. (maybe its only mine and they don't want me to come anymore)

[/ QUOTE ]

It is just you - bugger off


No really it was OK last I looked. I built a test page for next year as a new website. Here is what I have

August 12: Weekend in Nevada City. Contact Dave Nock at healeydoc@scbglobal.net.


August 27: National Ice Cream Social. Details to come.


September 10: Palo Alto British car Show. Tour Saturday Sept. 9.


September 23 (Saturday): Ironstone Concours at the Kautz Winery in Murphys. Contact Dave Nock at healeydoc@scbglobal.net. Info also at www.ironstoneconcours.org.


October 14-15: Russian River Safari. Contact Dave or Jerri Nock at healeydoc@scbglobal.net.


October 22: Autumn Classic San Juan Bautista. Contact Bill Meade at billmeade@charter.net.


December 10: Holiday party.


For Healey Events Nationwide, go to the Events Page of the Austin Healey Club of America at https://www.serve.com/AHCA/ahcaevnt.htm

Also this weekend is the Pre-Historics at Leguna Seca and the Historics are next weekend. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif Hi Steve! Welcome to the forum. Can't help you mechanically as I am still learning and fortunately for me I have a great mechanic here in New Mexico. Dave Porter in Albuquerque and my husband. I just drive /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif my Healey (Agatha A Healey)and together she and I have some great adventures. Hope you enjoy your Healey as much as I do mine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
 
Welcome to the Forum Steve, I'm sure you'll find what you're searching for here. Briefly, you may just have carb floats sitting on the bottom of the bowls. They have to float to shut the gas off. Easy to see, just remove the tops where the gas lines go in and verify the floats are near the top. While the tops off clean any sludge you may find at the bottom. Spray some carb cleaner on the jets to free them up. Good luck, hope this helps. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Hi Steve /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif

Welcome to the Forum, you will love it here /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

The search feature for looking through all the forum threads is amazing, I have used it countless times. There are several how-to articles including in the knowledge base that offer instructions on carb rebuilds, diagnosing symptoms, trans care and rebuilding etc. Sounds like you have a great Healey there, we need PICS!! Welcome /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Welcome,
So you like the sound of the exhaust - - - You are hooked, I hope that you have the cheque book to go with it. If it's been dormant for 29 years, I'm not surprised that there are one or two niggles. If it's a definite tick rather than a harsh grating noise, it could be a mashed tooth otherwise it would be bearings, you know when that happens. The carbs could be gummed up after all this time and there could be crudd in the gas tank, all should be cleaned. If you are intending to drive it now, as a rolling restoration, without a strip down,the most important thing is to check all the rubbers in the hydraulic systems - brake and clutch, along with the hydraulic lines, check the brakes and give the wiring the once over. Change the oil filter and oil in engine and gearbox then drive it, wait for something to go wrong, while building up confidence in the machine, then fix it. Repeat the proceedure as necessary.

Hope you enjoy it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif
 
I have a 62 BT7 and gas coming out the overflow tubes always meant a float had a hole in it. They're tough to get out when sitting at the bottom of the carb. By the way, gasoline running down the engine compartment onto hot exhaust pipes is not a good idea! I would suggest checking the floats before driving again.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif Welcome Steve. There are lot's of folks here that can be a tremendous help with your Healey. I strongly agree with Nevets, search all the previous posts on subjects and you're likely to come up with instant answers. Have fun! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Sorry for the late reply! Thanks for all the welcomes. Great forum here. I'll check trans fluid and floats and report back what I find. Would love to join a local Healy club in my area (San Francisco), so any members, please let me know how to join. Also curious if there are any Austin Healy parts suppliers in the San Francisco bay area?

Here is a photo of my 100-6. It was originally Black/Colorado Red. Was that a rare color combo for '59?

cpshot.jpg


Steve
 
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