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I'm about to run out of thread......

TR6BILL

Luke Skywalker
Offline
So I have my new Goodparts TA brackets installed, and I have gotten them shimmed to what I think is close (I limp to the alignment shop tomorrow.) and I'm more than a little concerned that the bolts are too short on both outer brackets because of the number of shims that I have used. At what point is a bolt retention considered iffy with few threads left showing past the retaining nut? I got almost 3 showing. I am using grade8 lock washers and grade8 nuts on the grade8 bolts. (I hate Nyloc nuts, rather resort to some red Loctite.) Seems I read somewhere that Richard supplied longer bolts because of this problem. What a royal PITA if I have to go back and pull this down to insert longer bolts! I think I am safe with some Loctite and 3 threads showing.

Interestingly, the 16 (countem, sixteen!) factory shims that my car came with originally is amazing. Of course, they are all single-bolt shims. And two kinds of brackets. Did what they did to make the thing track. Because I am using the Goodparts adjustable brackets, I am not concerned with tilting the brackets because it has an adjustable pivot pin and tapered innards. They must have had some kind of jig in Coventry to align each car coming off the line, because no 2 were alike. 16 shims! Also, think about this for a moment. Why invest in a Goodparts adjustable bracket when the stock setup works perfectly. You are only gonna set your camber once, right?
 
Also, I used Moss' shims to jack the outer brackets out in 2 dimensions. They are large, double brackets that mimic the back side of a bracket in size and give a good, large surface to bolt to. Used 3 on each outer bracket to get the wheels to track straight.
 
Well, what I was told in airplane mechanics school,

was that the FAA required one complete thread past the end of the fiber lock nut.

Torque is what keeps the nut from coming off, or so I was told and any other thing is just a safety to keep the fastener in position.

Three threads is plenty, and I think looks much neater than having a lot of bolt sticking out to get rusty and bunged up so the nut never comes off.

my opinion anyway.
 
2 suggestions you can use:

1) Jam nuts - they are thinner profile
2) Low profile nylocs

Both available from mcmaster.com probably other options as well.
 
TR6BILL said:
Why invest in a Goodparts adjustable bracket when the stock setup works perfectly. You are only gonna set your camber once, right?

That is what I thought.
 
I went to the adjustable GP brackets because they are, easily adustable. I put on an average of six to eight thousand miles a year and I am usually loaded fairly heavy.I carry two small tool boxes in the trunk and the spare tire well is loaded with a spare tire ,complete axle shaft incl hub,alternator,hyd.jack, a fuel pump,and two torque wrenches ,foot lbs and inch lbs.My theory is,if ya got with ya you'll probably never need it.
I set my camber unloaded at about two degrees positive,load up the boot, fill the petrol tank this puts me at about half degree positive.Then throw in the suitcase,significant other and myself,gives me about half degree negative and we're off.If the springs start to sag a bit,lift the car and adjust the brackets. easy and quik,rather than add spacers and/or muck about with bracket swapping etc.
If you don't drive much and don't carry much in the boot,probably don't need the brackets,although your alignment guy will appreciate them!
Right now after I redid the T/A bushings ,springs,shocks,I have the 1/4 or maybe even the 3/8 spacers(can't remember) under the springs with new packings.My GP brackets now have lots of lift as the springs start to sag,which they always do....
 
PeterK said:
2 suggestions you can use:2) Low profile nylocsBoth available from mcmaster.com probably other options as well.

Instead of nylocks , I thought you were a proponent of metal locks. They are thinner than nylocks but I think a little fatter than a regular nut.
If you are having issues with the regular ones than the metal locks will probably worse.
 
TR6oldtimer said:
TR6BILL said:
Why invest in a Goodparts adjustable bracket when the stock setup works perfectly. You are only gonna set your camber once, right?

That is what I thought.

Since new springs are variables, more so if you go to shorter springs to lower the car a bit. The camber can be greatly affected with new parts. There are three differnt types of brackets (1,2 & 3 notches), each of which can be installed two different ways. Giving a very large number of combinations. Before the adjustable brackets, you had to put it all together, measure your camber and start adjusting. Moss has a handy chart. You adjust by removing one bracket and replacing it with another. Not a fun chore on a car with verything assembled. You might have to do it several times per side to get it right. Which is one reason so many TR6s don't have it right. The adjustable brackets make it a quick and easy proposition. Plus, if you track dayed it or autocrossed, you could quickly adjust for competiton and then back to street.

I still have the non-adjustables. But I understand the reasoning for them.
 
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