Ignitor with neg ground conversion

[irish]

Recently converted my pos grd 61 sprite with generator to neg grd with alternator. I followed the alternator conversion kit directions and car started right up. Now, I've installed an ignitor (neg grd version) and car won't start. The alternator conversion kit required that the white wire from harness (ig switch) go to the neg terminal of coil, but the ignitor directions require opposite. I've tried the wires to coil both ways, and not starting. My question: should the white wire from harness and the red wire from ignitor go to the pos terminal of the coil as ignitor directions state? Or put another way, is the ignitor for neg grd cars just for neg grd cars not previously pos grd cars? Or, could the ignition timing be too advanced? ....irish

 

[dklawson]

Start by putting the points back in and making sure the car will start at all.

When you change a car from positive to negative ground the coil negative terminal goes to the distributor connection. The wire from the ignition switch goes to the coil positive terminal. On OLD Lucas coils this means that the SW (switch terminal... that used to go to the ignition switch) now goes to the distributor. The CB (Contact Breaker) connection on the coil now goes to the ignition switch. Backward from how it was originally designed for positive ground.

As for the Pertronix, it's not concerned so much with how you've wired the coil but that you've connected the right power to the Ignitor module. In the case of a negative ground Ignitor module, this means that the RED wire goes to coil (+) (the ignition switch connection). The Ignitor black wire goes to the low side of the coil.

There is a third connection that you may not have thought about. The metal foot of the Ignitor module is a ground connection. On cars with vacuum advance that means the flexible wire between the breaker plate and the dizzy housing must be in place. Make sure that wire is in place and is not broken.

Since the Pertonix is new to you, also make sure that the magnet ring is pressed all the way down on the dizzy shaft and is in front of the Ignitor module when installed. Lastly (and don't take this as an insult) make sure you have put the rotor on the dizzy shaft. It's surprisingly easy to forget to put it back on when you're in a hurry.

 

[irish]

Hey Doug, Thanks for the check list. Turns out I was using a positive grd ignitor that I had bought in the past. Once I verified the type (+ or -) according to part #, I had a feeling that I was using the wrong kind of ignitor. Took afew minutes to switch, and the little bug fired right up. What had bugged me yesterday was really all the changes in the wiring to the voltage regulator that was required to to install the alternator; wasn't difficult, just wiring stuff always gives me the hee-bees...Anyway, I was convinced that adding electronic ignition following the gen to alt must involve some pain but I'm glad to say it didn't. Now, on to more problem busting...irish

 

[dklawson]

You'll like the ignition module. It sounds like you've used them in the past but it bears repeating for others who read this thread that you need to remember to NOT leave the ignition ON with the engine turned OFF for more than 3 or so minutes. The Ignitor module can overheat and burn out if the engine isn't running.

I'm glad you got it sorted. Refresh my memory before this thread dies. What are the colors used on the Pertronix leads for positive ground? I remember they're different but I don't remember what the color codes are.

 

[irish]

I thought the lead colors for the +grd and -grd were different too, but have been told by those fellas in goleta that they are identical, Pertronic website does not have a viewing of the two products. Both of the ignitors I have look identical ie red and black leads; the older one (purchased years ago) did not work, but the newer one did, as I mentioned above. Maybe, they are both -grd type, and the first one is broken...Cause, I thought like you that the +grd had different lead colors than red and black. Anyone else know??

 

[Dave Russell]

A negative ground Pertronix has a red wire & a black wire.

A positive ground Pertronix has a black/white wire & a black wire.

The two types are wired entirely different from each other & also are not interchangeable. See the attached pics.
D

 

[John Kuzman]

Dave Russell -

Thanks for visiting us "other" Healey folks. Sorry to bump into this thread, but I just came from an estate sale where I purchased a Stahlwille puller, Model No. 12616, still in the box. As I recall, you touted this device as the secret for changing out the seal on a big Healey steering box. I may need your guidance, as my BJ7 steering box has been leaking for years.

 

[Keoke]

Hi Irish , this thread sounds like a broken record I just finished working this same problem with a Jaguar owner in the UK. What Alternator and its instructions is it that is confusing everyone about the location of the White Wire?? I want to get to the supplier and correct the problem. People are frying the pertronix because of this.---Keoke

 

[irish]

Keoke,

That's interesting since I recall when I first bought my first ignitor(an they ain't cheap) my sprite was pos grd and I had a generator. I recall now that my first ignitor was neg grd; I had planned back then to switch the sprite from pos to neg grd and then install the neg grd ignitor. Well, the directions to switch to neg grd with generator seemed simple enough but in retrospect I somehow fried the ignitor. My hunch is that I somehow did not "polarize" the generator correctly.
Later I decided to install an alternator and switch to neg grd; the alternator kit directions was straighforward and all went well. Following this I installed the first ignitor I had bought (the damaged one), it did'nt work of course, however, when I bought a new neg grd ignitor, the car fired right up.
I prefer an alternator and others don't. I know from experience that the ignitor works with my now neg grd sprite and alternator. Hope this helpful. irish