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Ignition timing help

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Forcing the engine to go rich and smooth it out is a very good suggestion, but it will not tell him where the leak is. But, let's say for the sake of argument (constructive of course) that I'm wrong and there is no leak, your method will eliminate the leak theory right away, if done correctly.

If that proves to be the case, then the timing degree marking being moved is a definite possibility. There is no way to move the distributor anyway but 180 degrees, so that is not viable.

I just have a feeling that the basics are at the root of this problem, based on the way the problem is being described. Did I miss it or did the actual measured point gap get posted?

Is there a club local to the problem car that we can get him to visit?
 
Well finally some positive news. I put in new points and a condenser (they were getting due anyway). I used a feeler gauge to set the points. I then used my dwell meter. I noticed that no matter how far apart or close the points were set, it always showed 35-40 degrees - in short I finally figured out my dwell meter was not working! I went back, set my points with a feeler gauge and then timed my engine using the static timing described in Bentley. I was finally able to get the idle speed to about 900 RPM. The results? When I went out for a test run, my car screamed when I cruised along the winding road near my house. I never knew static timing could be so accurate. Thanks again for all the suggestions and help; I think I tried just about everything suggested, and learned a lot in the longrun.
Kevin
 
Now that makes some sense Kevin.Glad you got it sorted out.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
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