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Tips
Tips

Ignition system rebuild completed

T

Tinster

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This old non-mechanic really surprised himself
with this ignition system rebuild. The engine fired
up on the first crank of the key !! I was stunned.

In the past two weeks I have replaced the battery,
coil, condenser, dizzy cap, dizzy lead wire and with
my own hands custom fabricated a set of spark plug wires
to fit my oddball dizzy orientation.

Now to find the waterproofing spray and I should be good
to go. My engine is starting to look like a real engine,
not some cobbled together mess.

Thanks to everyone for the tips!!

regards,

dale

NewIgnition.jpg
 
Nice touch of red on the vacuum booster. Sort of a "Braka-Rossa"
 
Aloha Dale,

I think the spray products you are looking for is usually refereed to as either "ignition sealer" or "wire dryer". GUNK is a manufacturer of these products. Here is a link to their product:

https://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp

Here is a link to show you products made by Masters:

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MASTER-IG...emZ370105208039

I'm sure there are several other manufacturers so you should be able to find something at your LAPS or "Mart" store.

WD40 is also a water displacer so it could also be used to remove moisture from a distributor cap.

Good luck.
 
Back in the day when I was running motorcycles through the mud, I used a silicone spray on the ignition.
 
Brosky said:
Nice touch of red on the vacuum booster. Sort of a "Braka-Rossa"

Be careful, very careful. When I painted my new valve cover <span style="font-weight: bold">red</span>, my frame collapsed!
 
TR6BILL said:
Brosky said:
Nice touch of red on the vacuum booster. Sort of a "Braka-Rossa"

Be careful, very careful. When I painted my new valve cover <span style="font-weight: bold">red</span>, my frame collapsed!

<span style="color: #990000">Ain't it the truth Bill !!! You blow up your hot new cam
and it takes out my entire fuel delivery system !! Your mess put my car
on blocks for nearly 6 months of repairs as I replaced gas tank to carb bowls
and everything in between.

d :wall:</span>
 
Dale, I hesitate to ask any questions which could cause further consternation, but looking at the pic of your very nice engine layout, I have to ask how your #1 plug wire ended up at the 2 o'clock position on your distributer cap (if I'm following the wires correctly)? Seems 180* from what I thought was the norm.

Tom
 
That is why he made the new wires to fit. You are correct, it is out of the norm, but everything works, so it's fine for Dale, especially with the new wires.
 
Tom, good eye!

Yes, my engine appears to have been cobbled together
from various parts from a 1968 TR250, a 1969 TR6 and
a 1971 TR6. My dizzy dog was installed 180* backwards.

It looks odd but it functions.

d
 
In one picture it looked like you had an open vacuum fitting on the rear of the intake manifold. I queried about that, but received no response. Was it just an unused, but capped, fitting?
 
RonMacPherson said:
In one picture it looked like you had an open vacuum fitting on the rear of the intake manifold. I queried about that, but received no response. Was it just an unused, but capped, fitting?

<span style="color: #990000">Some DPO gutted out the entire heating and ventilation
system in the car. You are seeing the remains of the hot water feed
to the heater system. That portion of the water circulation is closed
off at both ends. I cannot blow air into either ends.

I DO miss the ventilation portion but the air vent hoses are long gone.

PS: For reasons totally beyond my comprehension, the clickity-clack
sounds over cylinder No.6 are not present today.

best,

dale</span>
 
Hey Brosky. Not to mention the Gen; Fan; Plug caps; Hose fittings; Inner & Outer fenders; Car body.

What did I miss?

Oh Yeah! The "Roll Bar".

Russ
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]for reasons totally beyond my comprehension, the clickity-clack sounds over cylinder No.6 are not present today.[/QUOTE]

That's only so it can torture you with some new sound....
 
toysrrus said:
Hey Brosky. Not to mention the Gen; Fan; Plug caps; Hose fittings; Inner & Outer fenders; Car body.

What did I miss?

Oh Yeah! The "Roll Bar".

Russ

<span style="color: #000099">Russ, very little of the body has been Pedro-ized.
Althought his $299 Maaco paint job is beginning to fall off.
Inner fenders long gone; I kept the red blade fan and
the TR250 block. Most everything else was buggered so badly,
yes, I have replaced or rebuilt most of the vehicle.

The "Roll bar" is actually a Lexan window to shield my
bad lungs from exhaust fumes. My design, custom made for me
and it works wonders. I know some of the other members have
COPD and the fume shield makes driving much easier.</span>
regards,

d

bolts.jpg
 
Red roll bar.......you got it.........Rolla Rossa!!!
 
Dale, may want to post the picture again. THe fitting I saw was on the rear curve of the intake manifold, well outboard. It also appeared to be a brass fitting, or at least brass colored.

Factory water tubing was fairly close to the head, inboard of the curve if I remember right.. And it should be silvery, gray metal in coloration.
 
RonMacPherson said:
Dale, may want to post the picture again. THe fitting I saw was on the rear curve of the intake manifold, well outboard. It also appeared to be a brass fitting, or at least brass colored.

Factory water tubing was fairly close to the head, inboard of the curve if I remember right.. And it should be silvery, gray metal in coloration.

Hey Ron-

Here's a view of both ends.

d

vacuum.jpg
 
Looks like you bypassed your manifold water tube. This will work as long as you have a closed cooling system. Not really sure what that tube was for, cool the intake or heat the intake. If you are running your car, obviously you have your coolant hooked up somehow.
 
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