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tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I was wondering where you were going to get that cylinder by itself; the only cylinder I know you can get by itself is for early cars.
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T-Series Ignition switch cylinder removal - '74 GT
- Thread starter BoneIdle
- Start date
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OP
BoneIdle
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Ummm. Ummm. I was...wr<mumble>g...err. OKAY. I WAS WRONG!
LOL
I was laboring under the misconception that the cylinder contained the return spring. The part with the harness and plug actually does. I was disconsolately playing around with the whole thing and realized that.
I learned something...
...and it fixed the problem. The car started ( although I need an oil change after having it sit for three months) and ran fine. Not only that, but the return works, so the starter automatically disengages when you release the key.
The other bonus appears to be that the turn signals were somehow involved in the switch problem as well. They started working as soon as the switch was replaced.
I'm happy.
Now on to the hand brake cable. I need to remove the passenger's seat, right? ( Where did those pesky movers put my manuals?)
I want to jack the car up fairly high. Can someone suggest points ( in the rear) for the jackstands? My memory is kind of vague on that point.
LOL
I was laboring under the misconception that the cylinder contained the return spring. The part with the harness and plug actually does. I was disconsolately playing around with the whole thing and realized that.
I learned something...
...and it fixed the problem. The car started ( although I need an oil change after having it sit for three months) and ran fine. Not only that, but the return works, so the starter automatically disengages when you release the key.
The other bonus appears to be that the turn signals were somehow involved in the switch problem as well. They started working as soon as the switch was replaced.
I'm happy.
Now on to the hand brake cable. I need to remove the passenger's seat, right? ( Where did those pesky movers put my manuals?)
I want to jack the car up fairly high. Can someone suggest points ( in the rear) for the jackstands? My memory is kind of vague on that point.
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Under the spring shackles with a short piece of 2x4 to allow the bolt ends to dig in without deforming them. Alternately you can go JUST inboard of the shackles on the axle tubes but you may find the cable routing/mounting to be harder to access on the right side then.
...and CHOCK the front wheels, please!! :wink:
...and CHOCK the front wheels, please!! :wink:
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
So, there's nothing wrong with the ignition now?
Offline
"Remember"?!?!? I don't even remember breakfast anymore.
If the handle mechanism goes up and down, and the pawl works (after you have unscrewed and disconnected the cable from it underneath), you won't need to remove the seat and handbrake gear.
In the event the handle is somehow craminated then the seat can be removed by unwinding the four 7/16" head bolts from the ends of the two seat tracks. This can be a frustrating job, BTW.
If the handle mechanism goes up and down, and the pawl works (after you have unscrewed and disconnected the cable from it underneath), you won't need to remove the seat and handbrake gear.
In the event the handle is somehow craminated then the seat can be removed by unwinding the four 7/16" head bolts from the ends of the two seat tracks. This can be a frustrating job, BTW.
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In a straight line with the rear seat mounting bolts, that nut is about an inch forward of the line and "do-able" with the seat racked full forward. Whether it is easier with the seat out or not will depend solely on how well the seat rail retaining bolts are rusted in. :wink:
I'd struggle the carpet out of the way and try access without removing the seat first. Then CAREFUL use of PB Blaster down the seat bolts/spacers/floorpan if unsuccessful.
I'd struggle the carpet out of the way and try access without removing the seat first. Then CAREFUL use of PB Blaster down the seat bolts/spacers/floorpan if unsuccessful.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
If the seat will move to its furthest point rearward, you can get to the emergency brake however, its as frustrating as removing the seat.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
VB hires telephone salespeople & have no technical folks on staff.....I've watched VB change over the years.
Moss has telephone salespeople who are car owners/lovers...& if you can't get an answer from them, you can ask for technical support & one of their marque experst will contact you.
Moss has telephone salespeople who are car owners/lovers...& if you can't get an answer from them, you can ask for technical support & one of their marque experst will contact you.
OP
BoneIdle
Jedi Trainee
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I haven't really had to deal with VB's customer service other than this time. They were pleasant enough and tried to help, but no - not a lot of technical knowledge. Oh well, all's well that ends well, I suppose.
It's funny. My punch list for the poor, little GT was something like this:
1) fix ignition switch problem
2) fix turn signal problem
3) fix horn problem
4) replace parking brake cable
5) replace thermostat
#1 also corrected #2 and #3. The return on the switch hadn't worked since I bought the car, but the turn signals and horn had quit functioning right before the switch failed completely. It was a month with the horn. The turn signals failed about an hour before the switch.
I like it when I can replace one part and solve three problems.
)
It's funny. My punch list for the poor, little GT was something like this:
1) fix ignition switch problem
2) fix turn signal problem
3) fix horn problem
4) replace parking brake cable
5) replace thermostat
#1 also corrected #2 and #3. The return on the switch hadn't worked since I bought the car, but the turn signals and horn had quit functioning right before the switch failed completely. It was a month with the horn. The turn signals failed about an hour before the switch.
I like it when I can replace one part and solve three problems.
)