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Ignition stays on

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DerekJ

DerekJ

Luke Skywalker
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Hi Guys,

I switched off my ignition tonight and the light stayed on and the fuel guage was still reading 3/4 full.

He's some background. At the weekend my flashers stopped working. Feeling bored tonight I wandered down to where the car is kept (secured parking not a workshop) and tried the flashers again - nothing - just a click from the vicinity of the flasher unit. (The flashers have given up in the past but then begun working again themselves for no apparant reason) I then removed and switched the fuses (to be honest I couldnt remember whether the flasher was on a fused circuit or not but did it anyway). No difference. As I then had to go out to dinner I switched off and removed the key. I luckily noticed that the ignition light was still on. Having no time to do anything I just disconnected the battery and left it.

Any thoughts?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Hi Derek,
The common denominator is the ignition switch or it's wiring. It appears that the switch is not turning completely off & possibly sometimes not completely on. Power to the red light is not fused but is switched through the ignition switch. Power to the fuel gage, flashers, etc. is also switched by the ignition switch, but in addition, it is fused with the 35 amp fuse, as are the turn signals. Dirty connections of the fuse block wiring or at the fuse itself could cause part of the problem, but the additional red light problem points to the switch & could be the cause of both, or there may be two separate problems.
D
 
Thanks Dave I'll check that tomorrow. Im just pretty suspicious that I fiddled with the fuses. Just seems too much of a coincidence. Maybe somehow I didint put them back correctly and its caused a related problem
 
Hi Derek,
Guess what? On the early fuse blocks you can put the fuse in the wrong slot, below the top clip instead of in it. It will sort of snap into place as if everything is normal. This will bridge the top & bottom circuits together & bypass the ignition switch. Also an easy way to hot wire the car. I just didn't think of something so simple!
Good luck,
D
 
DUMB DUMB DUMB.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

Thats what you get for messing about in a half lit parking...I hot wired my own car! All you have to do is wedge the top fuse between the bottom one and the lower clips for the top one and bingo!

Now only the traficators to fix
 
so I figure I've got to stop reading about other people's problems, because as soon as I do, it happens to me! I went to start up my BJ8 today and the battery's dead. I jump it and notice that with the key off, the ignition light is still on. I get it going and drive around for a while. When I come turn it off, the car is still running. I take the key out, the car is still running. I had to stall it to turn it off. What the heck is happening to my baby?
 
Hi SHG, I would start looking for this problem with the coil diconnected and testing all the switched power circuits for 12 Volts with the Key off.Never ran into a bad switch,but there is no law against one failing.---Keoke
 
Keoke, do you think it would make sense to just change the ignition switch?
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif SHG, I think you need to nail down the actual problem. Be sure and check the disconnected {WHITE} coil lead for the 12 Volts---Keoke
 
Keoke,

The good news is that I nailed down the problem. The bad news is the problem. The insulation on wire to the overdrive was gone and the wire was shorting out against the frame. It broke as it went through a whole, which has ended the short for now but means no overdrive. Numerous other wires in the same area also had melted insulation, though nothing else was touching anything. Unfortunately for me, I'm really not up to the job of putting in a new wiring harness and don't know anyone around here who can do it. I don't even know what it would cost, though one guy I spoke with who doesn't give me a lot of confidence would only mutter "lotta time, lotta time."

I would try splicing a wire to the overdrive myself, but have no way to get under the car to wire it in. It's pretty depressing.
 
Scott - I see you're on the famous Isle of Long. I live in Norwalk, CT, not too far away. There are 2 places up here that may be able to help you out if you want to drive the car up here.
Charlie at British Car Specialists and maybe John at Sports and Classics.
Are you interested?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Keoke,

The insulation on wire to the overdrive was gone and the wire was shorting out against the frame. It broke as it went through a whole, which has ended the short for now but means no overdrive. Numerous other wires in the same area also had melted insulation, though nothing else was touching anything.

[/ QUOTE ]

Scott--

If the wire is broken before the place where it shorted out on the frame the end at the break is possibly still hot and there is the potential for further shorting. I would at the very least disconnect the OD wire where it exits the second OD relay. The chafed wires for the other circuits also need to be addressed as they are accidents (shorts=fires) waiting to happen. You do not have to put in a whole new harness if you are willing to do some rewiring--it's really not too difficult if you read the wiring diagram in your owner's or workshop manual. Getting under the car involves nothing more than a floor jack and a couple of good jackstands.

Give thought to installing fuses in any circuits that you work on--there's just no reason to perpetuate a bad design. Install the fuses at the beginning of the individual circuits as close as possible to where they are energized at the main fuse block. A 50 amp fuse is not much better than a nail....
 
Well SHG, I am sorry to hear about your finding.But if you can get a good Hi resolution PIC of the damaged "Numerous other wires" to send me, it just might be possible to put it right without replacing the whole harness. Also with the old harness in place you can use it as a road map for installing a new one if required. It is not rocket science but will take some patience to complete. I would suggest that you diconnect the battery from the car at the batt terminals.??-Keoke
 
Once again, I appreciate your talking me down off the ledge. I was really bummed yesterday about this, but started giving it some thought and realized that you are right. I can replace the overdrive harness since it's separate from the main harness. I don't have jack stands, but it's just something I'll have to get. For the time being, I've taped up the overdrive wire, but I couldn't live with it that way. There really aren't that many other frayed wires, maybe about 5, and they are only frayed for a short length, like an inch or two. I assume that I can wrap these in electrical tape if I disconnect them and can get to them. I'm not sure where the overdrive harness begins and ends (I know it ends underneath somewhere, but that's a foreign land to me and I have yet to get my passport). But you are right, I should be able to figure this out and replace the overdrive harness.

This is just the hard way to learn a little mechanics. I will send you a decent photo of the whole thing tomorrow and really appreciate your wisdom. Thanks yet again.
 
Electric tape is a poor solution, even temporary. Shrink fit (uses heat) or the wire crimp (crimps an insulated metal tube onto the wires) will be a lot more durable even if you intend to do this soon. You can find this stuff everywere from Walmart to Radio Shack.
 
just got back from radio shack with some heat shrink. That looks easy enough. Ordered an overdrive wiring harness (shipping cost a third of the price! and it won't show till next week). So now I only need to find some jacks to get the car up so I can wire it into the overdrive, assuming that isn't an issue. Can't see where it goes until I can get under the car. But I'm getting closer, thanks to all of you.
 
[ QUOTE ]
So now I only need to find some jacks to get the car up so I can wire it into the overdrive, assuming that isn't an issue. Can't see where it goes until I can get under the car. But I'm getting closer, thanks to all of you.

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Scott,
You might find that it is easier to work from the top side. Can't really see much from the under side. The wiring is much more accessible. It's not hard to remove some of the interior & the transmission tunnel. Seats, carpets, & tunnel can be removed with a few screws. Also a good chance to look over & check other parts under there, such as shifter interlock switch, OD solenoid, transmission mounts, stay bracket & bushings, & U joints. Also weather strip/heat seals & insulation. It would certainly be my first choice, but I've probably done it a dozen times. Once you've been through the drill, nothing to it. A good chance to learn the condition of all that is really under there.
D
 
Just when I think it's safe to go back in the water, now I have to figure out how to take the interior apart? Your killing me.
 
Scott

Hang in there mate. You remind me of me 9 years ago when I bought my Healey and I didnt even own any tools whatsoever of any kind. Not even a bloody screwdriver. Fuel pump went awol and I bought jack stands got underneath and removed it and bought a new one. BUT.... that wasnt really the problem, it was a fuel blockage in a rusting fuel tank, obvious to me now..I took the tank out and put it back 6 times before I finally bought a new aluminium one. More recently I removed the gearbox and replaced a clutch. Never thought I could do that but its not rocket science. I'll never be Dave or Keoke but its amazing what you can do if you put your mind to it.

WARNING do not go under the car with only axle stands. Make sure you have a plan B. wood supports, tyres or something

Now.. go fix it!
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gifSHG! -Getting back in the water

First step. at the rear of the car diconnect the hand brake cable from the accunulator.Remove the seat cusions.remove the seat frames donot touch the slides they are ok.Remove the gear shift Knob and its gaiter.Remove the arm rest,at the rear of it near the rear seats you should find two sheet metal screws attaching it to the tunnel.Up under the dash on each side of the console you should find "FOUR" metal machine screws remove them. Feel behind the console and see if a metal stap is bolted to the transmission tunnel and the bottom sides of the console,if so remove all the fastners also at the rear of the console where the arm rest snuggles in you should find a bracket and bolt holding it in place on top of the tunnel.Put the gear lever in the second gear position and attempt to slide the console out up and over the gear shift lever. If a standard type radio is installed diconnect the power lead and the antenna. Push the handbrake all the way back out of the way.The carpet should be snapped in place on the tunnel unsnap it and fold it back out of the way.If it is a two piece carpet it can be removed. If the carpet has benn glued to the tunnel proceed on .Remove the floor carpets and a series of screws attaching the tunnel to the floor should be visible on both sides of the tunnel remove them; reach up behind the Speedo and disconnect the cable as you with draw the tunnel feed the cable/grommet through the tunnel hole. Reinstallation is the reverse of removal I think!--Fwiw---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

BUGGER init! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Clutch good?
Front universal ok? Never be closer to em until "U" do this again!
 
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