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Ignition question.

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Assuming I now have the dizzy installed correctly, how can I static time or figure out where the first ignition point is on the dizzy. I run the car at 8*BTDC normally with no vacuum advance (using centrifugal advance). Where should I set the pulley pointer and where should I set the rotor cap? Make sense?
 
Aloha Bill,

Get the pointer on the engine at aimed at 8*BTDC on the crank pulley. I find that in order to avoid confusing myself, I want to get the crank pulley mark in position on the compression stroke of number 1 cylinder. With the distributor cap off, the rotor should be pointing near to the number one high tension lead. Disconnect the low tension lead between the coil and distributor. Connect your static light (I use a scavenged dash illumination light) between the distributor terminal and any convenient 12 VDC source (battery terminal will work). Loosen the clamp at the base of the distributor and slowly turn the distributor counter clockwise the light just come on and then clockwise until it just goes out. This is the point of ignition, re-tighten the distributor clamp. Reconnect the low tension wire between the coil and distributor and you should be set a 8*BTDC.

Another thing is to always rotate the engine clockwise when getting the crank pulley mark in position. If you over shoot the mark don't back it up, because the timing chain tensioner may not allow the crank shaft motion to be transmitted to the cam shaft.
 
I don't know why you don't use a $100 Craftsman timing light and set the timing while the motor is at a low idle. I don't believe you will be getting much (if any) centrifugal advance below 1k RPM's. But you don't really know where the timing is until you put the light on it with the motor in motion.
 
Because the engine hasn't been cranked in 6 months and need to get that new cam worn in properly without multiple guesses where the starting point will be. Need to get it cranked up quickly if at all possible.
 
Bill,

Just to verify your position, leave the valve cover off and turn the engine so that you can see the valves open and close to insure that you are on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke.

Your rotor should be just before the #1 tower in the cap, moving CCW.
 
Bill
If you get it close as described here, it will most likely fire right up and if a little off you can tune it by ear to make her run smoothly for the period of time you need to break in the cam.
I just did this on my new engine and I had no problems with this once I made sure everything was pointing to number one at compression on number one.
 
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