79Spit said:
No problem with the alternator, though it is only charging at 12v, not 14-15v.
I'd call that a BIG problem, since it takes a minimum of about 13.2 volts to even mostly charge a "12v" car battery! You need to find someone that knows a volt from a Volkswagen!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] NOW...the IGN light goes out when I turn off the car (like it's supposed to, right?)[/QUOTE]Yup.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:], BUT it stays on while the engine is running. It gets brighter as the engine revs, and dims to nothing when I come to an idle stop.[/QUOTE]That could also be a symptom of a bad diode; but might also indicate a bad connection between the alternator and battery; or a bad connection(s) somewhere in the ignition circuit.
I would suggest getting a voltmeter or multimeter (digital multimeters or DMM for short have become so cheap that every Triumph owner should have at least one) and checking some voltages with the engine at fast idle and the headlights on.
First check between the alternator case and the battery ground post. Lucas says 0.25 volts is acceptable here, but I prefer to see under 0.1 volts.
Then check between the alternator output post, and the battery positive terminal. Again, Lucas allows 0.5 volts, but I prefer to see it lower than that.
If either voltage is too high, then work your away along that part of the circuit, to find and fix wherever the voltage drop is. Note that paint and rust do NOT conduct, each connection needs to be clean bright metal to metal. That includes the alternator mounts, since that is how the alternator ground gets connected to the battery.
If that doesn't point out the problem, check between the D+ and B+ terminals on the alternator. (You may have to jam the probes into the connector, or strip off a bit of insulation to connect into these terminals with the plug connected.) If the difference here is more than about a volt, there is a problem inside the alternator. If not, it's time to start going through the ignition circuit wiring to find where it's problem is.
A bit of explanation may be in order: Inside the alternator, there is an extra set of diodes commonly called the "diode trio" that are attached to the same windings as the output diodes; and to the D+ terminal. Thus, if the alternator is working, the D+ terminal gets about the same voltage as the output (B+) terminal.
The D+ terminal is wired to one side of the warning light on the dash. The other side of the warning light is connected to the ignition circuit. So normally, with the engine running, both sides of the lamp are at roughly 12v, and the light is off.
I've uploaded some instructions from Lucas that may help; you should be able to download "Lucas ACR alternator testing.pdf" from
https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2H2NJt3...list&num=50
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Additionally, I notice the blinkers are solid on if I try to put them on (either side) while at a stop, and very slow if I put them on while the engine is turning at speed. Is this still an alternator issue?? [/QUOTE]Hard to say for sure, but it certainly tends to show low voltage in the ignition circuit. That might be because your battery is low (from the alternator not working), or because there is a bad connection(s) in the ignition circuit.
It's unfortunately not uncommon to find multiple electrical problems; but I would focus on the alternator/light problem first. Once it's solved, worry about the turn signals.
If money is a problem, this HF multimeter is adequate at a bargain price:
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html
But this one has more features, is easier to read, and likely will last longer:
https://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digital-multimeter-37772.html