I give a piece of advice on the top scroll eybrow piece if you will, the placement of this is very important, when a engine is align bored, it done so with this piece gaketed and in place, on race engine for freshen ups, we never remove this piece. If you have removed it, and it sounds like you have, you need to center it when you reinstall, the three mounting holes are oversized and it can be easily misaligined. What I do is take blade feller guages and measure the gap btween this piece and the scroll area of the crank, it should be consitent across the board, perfect would be no more than about .002". On the oil galley plug, I replace them when I build a engine so I can clean in that area, if you had to ask what it was, I'm guessing you didn't do this, anyway it should have the brass tapered plug in there if you suspect it to be a leak source, you could fill the oil galley plug hole area with some epoxy, like JB weld. Play close attention to the pan rail cork gasket as well, this should compress during pan istallation, if you trimmed it down where it did not compress, then you won't get the proper seal in this area. It sounds like you have a pretty good leak, but really if you do everyhting perfect, getting a leak proof A-series engine in the rear is pretty impossible. They make rear seal kits, the 1275 seal kit doesn't work very well, but I seen better result on the 1098s and 948s seal kit, because of the difference in the rear crank hub on these motors. Hope this helps. Investigating really good will help you pin point your leak, here's my thinking by you seeing the leak come form the drip hole in the tranny, I think you are correct to believe your leak is coming form the rear scroll area, had it benn the oil pan gasket, you more than likely would have seen oil leaking form the front side of the rear engine plate and the rear of oil pan. Just curious, did you have the engine align bored, and what kind of clearences do you have on the mains and rods?