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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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How come it is so much work.

Engine is comming out for the third time in four weeks.

There must be a better way, quick disconnects on all the stuff for example.

At least this time, I think, there will be no engine work persay, so I can leave all that stuff alone. Just need to get into the rear.

For some reason I suspect the oil pump or can cover or both. But then can not see how. It's not like I have not done this before. I must be up to a dozen engine removals and replacements now and of course this is a new problem. Isn't it always.

Going to have to wait till tomorrow to start, I went out to the garage this morning and just did not have the energy to start all over again.
 
Jack, I know it can be frustrating. I've been there many times myself.
When I installed the engine/tranny in the current race car, I didn't think to check that it rotated freely after mating the engine and trans, while out of the car. Imagine my frustration to find that once installed, I only get about 300 degrees of rotation before it comes up against a hard stop. Turn it the other way, and the same thing happens. My guess is that I have a clutch bolt installed that is too long, and it's hitting the oil pump cover. Stupid, stupid, mistake. I still haven't gotten around to pulling it all back out to investigate. I've got a through the tunnel exhaust that is a major pain to remove/install, to make matters even worse.
In your case, since you already have established oil pressure, would it be possible, once you split the engine/trans, to remove the plugs, reinstall the starter and spin the engine over on the floor to pinpoint the leak? I've actually started them on the ground to do this, but won't recommend the procedure to others, for obvious reasons.
Believe me, buddy, I feel your pain!
Best of luck,
Jeff
 
Jack,
If you recall I had to pull my midget motor 5 times before I got it right. I know every time I realized the engine had to come out again I wanted to cry! It seemed like it was never going to be right and I'd never be driving. But...I did it every time because I knew If I didn't all the previous work was for nothing. You too will eventually reach a point where it runs...smooth when you turn the key! With my Midget it was 5 tries...let's see how many it takes with the new B /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif (Anything under 5 counts as an improvement score doesn't it?)
T:smile:
 
No words of wisdom for you, Jack. You will get there, and the driving will be worth it.

Most hobbies are hard work -- that's okay, as long as you enjoy (at least most of) the work. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Jack - are you using a new oil pump & strainer?

are you certain its not the guage?
 
Jack

Stick with it.It will all work out in the end.

When I raced my old Bugeye it seemed we had the engine out after every event for something. I had one special wrench that I loved it was a long boxed 1/2, 9/16 still got it in my tool box.

Mark
 
...Craftsman... with an offset, Mark? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif
 
I thought there were 2 problems & one of them was leakage; don't remember the other - however, I'm not sure the leak is related to the pump...that sounds more like a crankcase ventilation issue or possibly a gasket issue (though there'd almost have to be a gasket missing for lots of oil to show up back there, IMHO).

.....I'm just confused, I guess...Jack starts new threads & I have to jump back & forth between them so I get lost (you know how it is when you get old). Here's what I thought he said about the oil leak:

jlaird said:
When the engine is running I get oil running out the tranny weep hole in the bottom. Lots of oil.

Going to have to let it run a bit and see if the engine oil goes down but expect it is from the scroll seal. Don't know how or why yet but.

Lots of oil like it is just running out under pressure it seems. Does not leak when engine is off. I know the scroll end plate is in there and safety wired and I know the rear bearing is in there, can't think what it might be. HELP!
Click to expand...
Was there something else?
 
It's like this.

Works great on a bugeye since most of the bolts are 1/2 or '9/16.
 

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Going to pull the engine tomorrow. It has to be the scroll seal, maybe I screwed something up.

No telling what I did. Seem to have oil pressure though 20 lbs at idle in any case so assume it is a splash leak, must be the scroll. At least I can do that without tearing the engine down.
 
Doesn't Paul A. have a method of resurfacing the scroll seal with JB weld it bring it prevent it from leaking?
 
Jack, you could always temp some stuff up and start the engine setting on the floor out of the car and run it for a bit and see if it leaks again before putting it back in. I have done this on several different engines, just be careful.
 
I expect, after thinking about this for two days that....and I really really hate to admit this but.

What I am going to find is no seal on the top scroll ie I did not replace that gasket when rebuilding. And yep it had been in the dip tank. Sigh, it looked good and was safety wired in.

Surely hope I can get the three bolts out without pulling the carnk, however....

Guess a trip through the dip tank eates out gaskets but I really don't know yet.
 
Jack, I sure hope you are making a list so you can advise anyone else doing this in the future! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
And don't ever forget the biggest advantage of going first - you'll be driving AND laughing at the rest of us when we do it too! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
0900 all out but for the engine mounts and the tranny mounts. I'm getting faster.

Where the heck is the rear oil galley plug Jeff??
 
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