TR4/4A idle

[FuzzyinFairhope]

idle is too high, 1800 and won't come down.

 

[Rut]

idle is too high, 1800 and won't come down.

Look for a manifold or carb leak and also check your linkage. Sometimes the shaft that connects the gas pedal to the carb linkage can bind. Do you know the person from Spanish Fort who sold the 69 TR6 on BAT?
Rut

 

[lram59]

On my '63 with H6 carbs it was worn shafts and butterflies or discs or whatever you want to call them. If you take a the carbs off and shine a light from the back with the pistons lifted you should see very little light shining through. New shafts and discs and the Joe Curto videos and my idle is 700 rpm.
Larry

 

[bobhustead]

If the car is so equipped, have you checked the idle screws on the carbs & the fast idle cam, as well as the fast idle cam itself for free movement?
Bob

 

[Stevenry]

+1 on the discs. I ran out of adjustment on the rear carb, and after centering the disc I have screw left over and I think it idles at about 950. My tach isn’t totally accurate, but I have had a dwell/rpm meter on it during tuneups. I don‘t doubt my shafts might be a bit worn, and I have a bit of a cam.

But kind of on the topic, I can get it to idle a bit slower, and it will maintain that idle all day, probably, just tooling around, but I find that at the end of an off ramp after 10 minutes at 70+, (distance to golf course) it idles so slow it’s about to stall. Once I get moving again, it’s back to it’s normal idle. Does anyone else experience this, and perhaps know the cause? Has it gotten too rich decelerating to the stop?

Steve

 

[Sarastro]

It would be helpful to know a little more. I assume you have tried adjusting the idle speed, but you can't get it down to a sensible level, yes? If so, I would make sure that the throttle is not hanging up on something. Then loosen the throttle connections between the carbs, disconnect the linkage to the accelerator, and again try backing off on the idle. Be sure that the throttle levers are actually moving when you do that; sometimes, the springs get weak or they develop friction or won't move past some point because of gunk buildup. Of course, make sure that the choke cam is not holding them open.

If you still can't get the idle speed down, almost certainly you have an air leak in the carbs or a throttle plate that isn't closing. The carb bodies are made of a zinc alloy, which wears easily around the throttle shafts. The throttle plates can even wear into the bores of the carbs.

You can put bushings into the carbs to fix the shaft wear, and install new shafts, but it requires machining the carb body and you may not be up for that.

 

[sp53]

Perhaps the jet is not returning after the engine has been choked. See if you can push the jet up until it rest at the base of the assembly, they sometimes can stop about 1/8 of an inch before returning and cause a fast idle. I look at the spark plugs a lot when I am trying figure stuff out in that area. Idling at 700 rpm on these cars requires everything to be just right; at least that is my experience.

A lot of Steve’s on this post, my car will idle slower and almost die after a drive at 60 or 70. What I found out was the engine has cooled down about 5 to 10 degrees from all the cold air and is dying because of the engine temp. The engine then warms up that little bit in slower traffic and runs as normal as tr3. So, sometimes I will pull the choke out a little for a moment after a long drive in the mountains when coming to a stop.

steve

 

[poolboy]

The mixture might be a little lean..assuming the ignition timing is suitable.

 

[TR-3rg]

Hi,

Have you checked the mechanical advance in the distributer? Pop of the cap and twist the rotor. It should spring back to were it was. Try both directions. If not, its likely the return springs are broken and its stuck in full advance. If that's the case, its time for a distributor rebuild or replacement

Roy G

 

[Zadymek]

+1 on the discs. I ran out of adjustment on the rear carb, and after centering the disc I have screw left over and I think it idles at about 950. My tach isn’t totally accurate, but I have had a dwell/rpm meter on it during tuneups. I don‘t doubt my shafts might be a bit worn, and I have a bit of a cam.

But kind of on the topic, I can get it to idle a bit slower, and it will maintain that idle all day, probably, just tooling around, but I find that at the end of an off ramp after 10 minutes at 70+, (distance to golf course) it idles so slow it’s about to stall. Once I get moving again, it’s back to it’s normal idle. Does anyone else experience this, and perhaps know the cause? Has it gotten too rich decelerating to the stop?

Steve

I had that issue, check if air is not seeping in between carbs & manifold. I forgot what i sprayed around (starting fluid, b.cleaner or smthg that burns) If ur rpms go up - u have a leak, Just make sure u r not spraying from far & get it sucked thru intake.
changed both separating blocks & gaskets. It fixed that problem

 

[CJD]

I'm afraid Fuzzy and Fair never came back to follow-up!?!