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Idea for a TR Garage

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angelfj1

angelfj1

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I am looking for a storage solution for my TR's, and I came up with this idea. These "run-in" sheds are used by the Amish people, near where we live, for their horses, buggies, etc. They are well made and the price is reasonable, approx. $3300. This will be for dry, un-heated storage only and the structure will not be used for anything else. I will run a 120-volt circuit out to the shed for lighting and small loads and I will have doors added. Here is the problem. The widest model that they can deliver (they are built in small factories) is 12 ft. I would call that dimension depth, but they say width. So the inside clear , useful dimension (depth) is maybe 11 feet. I'm not sure of the overall length of the TR-3A (because it's not finished), but the TR-250 is just under 13 feet. So I am looking for opinions. Would it look really cheesy if I built a 2 ft extension on the back of the shed, for the ass-end of the cars? No opinion or remark will be rejected!!! And alternative solutions are welcome.

Cheers, Frank
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Would it look really cheesy if I built a 2 ft extension on the back of the shed [/QUOTE]

Nice looking structure.

Hey, it is your yard. Do what you want (if you can). You can always plant shrubs or trees, and hid it.

Here in Santa Cruz, Ca, anything over 120 square feet needs a permit.
 
TR3A is 12'9". Have them build on with the doors on the ends.

I built a similar shed as a garden house 12x16 out of hemlock. Designed my own post and beam structure and it cost me around $1300 with 4 windows. Has a small loft for storage.

Very easy build but way too small to work on a car in.
 
My Tr6 lives in my wifes space in the garage all year long..


she's not a happy camper thou...
 
Flooring is another issue. They build these units with a 6x6 pressure treated beam around the perimeter and another down the center. I was looking at two options. The first was a gravel floor, with a plastic vapor barrier underneath but I am still concerned about the moisture. The second is to build a floor with pressure treated 4x4's on 16-inch centers , a vapor barrier and then two layers of pressure treated 3/4-in plywood or 5/4 decking.
 
I would seriously look to the cost of concrete. In the long run, you will be happier.
 
Agreed, throw in some rebar for strength as well as a couple of short vertical pieces around the perimeter which you them drop the structure onto if your pouring a pad for the structure to sit on top of. Foam cell strip between concrete and wood to prevent rot. Create a slot that the door can sit down into or swing shut against and caulk the whole building like crazy to try to keep the thing mouse free. Remember they can get thru a hole the diameter of a dime!
Slope the floor towards the door for washing out.
 
angelfj said:
....a floor with pressure treated 4x4's on 16-inch centers , a vapor barrier and then two layers of pressure treated 3/4-in plywood or 5/4 decking.
Click to expand...
This seems reasonable to me; maybe even overkill. I happen to live next to a sawmill/lumber yard: these folks truly know wood and wood structure. They assured me, when I rebuilt my deck, that the 5/4 decking was more than strong enough to support even a car, and my deck is a couple feet off the ground. Such a floor on the ground, with vapor barrier, would certainly be more than enough, even a single layer. For a structure like this, I think this might be better than concrete. If you ever decide to move the structure, you can't really lift the concrete.... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif
 
Andy: I tend to lean in the direction you suggest. The shed would be in the extreme end of the lot and not really accessible for concrete and concrete pumpers are very expensive where I live. I think I will consider a very substantial vapor barrier over gravel then the 5/4 decking. This will save time and money.
 
Just remember that our little jewels love to leak oil in their sleep. What is all that oil gonna do to your wooden floor???
 
angelfj;

Have to say that board and batten style is gorgeous.

I have the feeling that (and I speak from experience) you will, in 2,3 or 5 years, wished the "H_E_ double hockey sticks" that you had constructed a building large enough to accomodate your cars with proper flooring, lighting, and storage for the inevitable extras.
I perused these Amish buildings too. I couldn't get past the plywood floors the T-111 siding, the meager roof overhangs. They are however, nice and they are well made.
I have 2 buildings at my place with wood flooring. The buildings sit on block foundations with I-beam and C channel crisscrossing from one side to the other. On top of the steel substructure are bolted 2'x8'x16' pressure treated boards to create a really neat floor. Looks like a barn floor. My TR6 is permanently housed in one and my son's stereo "pad" is currently in the other (it was supposed to house my MGBGT). I designed and built both these buildings over several summers.
As nice and useful as these buildings are I still am pressed for space and am now excavating for a 24'x30' garage addition. It never ends.

Tip: If you ever plan to build a new house on a decent sized piece of land, set a double wide pre fab on a concrete slab to live in and somewhere in back put up a 40'x60' pole building to have fun in.

Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
Frank,
If you can get a prefab structure that size into your back yard, What make you think a concrete mixer truck can't get back there? Even if one can't, a concrete motor buggie can.
I would vote for pouring a real foundation slab and have a the local Amish build you a nice post and beam garage on it that would add value to your property and last forever.
Phil
 
I have a similar set up on a shed and would suggest doubling up on the vapor barrier since you'll be driving on it. Its certainly cheap enough and it will reduce the possibility of perforations occurring between the gravel and decking.
Tom Lains
TS8651 & 58107
 
Better check with local code officials. In my area any thing over 10 x 10 has to have a concrete floor, as well as hurricane tie down and rafter straps. At minimum you may have to put it on a slab with the new international building code if used in your area.
 
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