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ID these parts please

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M

mightymidget

Jedi Knight
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I have all my switches in dash basically rewired but do not know what this is for. It is located on the firewall drivers side. it is on the same harness as the wipers that harness exits out of the firewall on drivers side.

What is it and how should it be wired-3 wires one on one side a double wire on the other.


also if someone can explain how wiper motor and switch are wired it would save me some time figure'n that out
 


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I have posted this before and was told it may be for gas gauge. but I check voltage going in and out and they are the same. this is located in front of passenger seat on the inside of firewall
 
fairly certain #1 is the washer pump.
 
I think Number 2 is a voltage stabilizer

m
 
This DIY voltage stabilizer would be an interesting way of approaching the problem if you are electronically inclined. It is for the MGB, but the parts are likely the same--the article explains what it is for and how it works.

Digital voltage stabilizer

Charlie
 
So they mention MGB up till '68. How about Spridgets. What years would this be applicable for.
 
IVR or CVR, usually available at parts stores.
Instrument Voltage Regulator
Cluster Voltage Regulator.

Don't ask for a stabilizer, they won't know what you are talking about.
They are similar to a turn signal flasher, giving an "average" voltage out.
Yes, that one, unless it is physically and electrically connected to your fuel gauge, which in turn is connected to the fuel sender, which in turn is properly grounded back to complete the circuit, will read input voltage.

They are not self-stimulating.
 
Jim,
I'm a Bugeye guy. I started looking into this when I came to the mistaken conclusion I had a later gas gauge (which I did not, turns out) and was wondering why it did not work. So, I admit I don't know much about the later Spridgets, but the Moss Catalog (part 131-555) says "1275, 1500," so I deduce (emphasis on "deduce") the rest of them too. I'm often wrong.

To be sure, check the wiring diagram for the car you're wondering about.

Respectfully,
Charlie
 
In reference to #2 the one on the car in orginal location has the same reading in and out on the two wires attached. voltage in battery is 11.88 and that is my reading on both sides where wires are hooked up, there is a two open spades.

The open spade bedside the dark green wire has very low voltage to medium readings. that change contantly when I have the battery source to the dark green wire. I am installing a Triumph Speedo in this car and it has the same resister on the rear of the speedo. I checked it and the readings are the same

I don't have a wiring diagram for this car. I am wiring it freehand shadetree, what ever you want to call it.

Don't have reference to a wiring plan today can anyone shed the light on where the dark green wire goes, the light green wire, and the gas gauge wire

Thanks for the help. almost have it all done. only thing left is wipers, gas gauge, and coil generator voltage regulator. I have all the lights working, a horn that blows, turn signals, fuel pump, ignition switch, dash lights, high beam ind. turn signal ind.
 
Moss Catalog for $17.95. Not sure worth it to source parts and build if I can get for $17.95.
 
Jim, all you really need is the LM7810 voltage regulator--the resistor and LED are optional as described in the article. If I am reading this offer correctly, they are about 20 cents each--if you buy 50! (Warning: they are Chinese.)

LM7810 solid state voltage regulators

But, I take your point. If you have a weekly order going into Moss anyway (and who doesn't?), why bother?

Charlie
 
Mightymidget,

I am looking at Haynes for you...it looks like the darker green is power (that would be consistent with the rest of the car, right) looks like the lighter green goes to your fuel gauge. The black green from your fuel tank sender is the only other connection to the fuel gauge. I believe the terminals on the back of the gauge are not interchangeable, and I do not know which is which.

Charlie.
 
My pleasure.

By the way, I think what TOC meant when he said that the voltage regulator is not 'self exiting' is that you are not going to see 10V from the output side of it until the fuel gauge is hooked up--it needs a load to work. So, it might be good even though you were getting battery voltage from the output side.

Charlie
 
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