ID Tag

[spooch22]

What type of ID tag should be on my wheel arch. I have a 1970 TR6 built in January 1970. The door post has the build date,color codes and trim. There are two rivet holes on the wheel arch so it looks like something was there and the paint is original so there would be no reason to remove it. What should be there if anything?

 

[Guest]

The Roadster Factory sells these plates, ready to go, just like the original. You will need a letter and number punch set to stamp in your numbers (serial, build date, etc.) I would advise getting a scrap piece of aluminum the same thickness and practice, practice, practice before you tackle the new plate. Oh, and the obvious, stamp the number on a good hard surface, the the fender of your car. Sorry, I had to say that. One guy actually did it that way. What a mess.

The plate makes a nice touch to the engine bay. My car (1973 TR6) had the engine bay plate (I put a new one in.) as well as the holes on the B pillar for the other plate, but none was ever installed. TRF sells these too. (they are slightly different, I think) I got so good at stamping numbers, I added one here as well.

 

[spooch22]

So there are two plates with the same info on them?

 

[Guest]

Yep, I just looked. Same info, however, slightly different layout. One is definitely for the B-Post and the other for the fender.

There were holes, I had to fill them......

 

[spooch22]

My feelings exactly. I just want the car to be original and complete.

 

[Andrew Mace]

I admit I don't know the TR6 as well as the Spitfires and GT6s...all of which -- for the "Federal" specification and beginning with the 1970 model year -- had Commission number (ID or VIN) plates ONLY on the LH door B-post.

 

[spooch22]

I noticed in the Moss motors catalog that the ID tags for the model year 70 were moved to the door pillar for US models. My car has two holes on the whheel arch and this is why I asked.I thought maybe my wheel arch, being on a early 70 car, was used from the 69 model year, thus the holes.Either way I'm not crazy about the look of the holes.

 

[Brosky]

On a 1970 and even the later models (I had two on my 74), there are two holes in the LF wheel arch. The earlier cars used a metal emission plate (available from TRF) and the later 73 & up used a stupid silver decal that wrinkles, no matter how you try to apply it. I just used the earlier version metal plate and it looks great.

I had friend who does pad printing do my VIN plate, rather than stamping in the numbers. Not original, but it looks really good.

Here is the emission/engine settings plate. The attachement below this picture is a picture of my VIN plate, since it's not on my web site.

The attached file is the VIN plate that has been pad printed.

 

[tomshobby]

Hi Paul,

I print my own decals. Can print white, silver, and gold also. Anyway, to protect them I use a product from Testor's called Dull Cote. It works well except if it is left in bright sunlight for extended periods like all summer.

I spray a light coat and after drying a coat that covers.

 

[TRTEL]

That pad printing looks terrific. Is it a thick ink or paint, air dried or baked on? And can you get any cleaner on it other than water?

Tom Lains
TS8651 & 58107

 

[Brosky]

It's baked on in a commercial process and the ink is fairly heavy. You can use any normal cleaner that you would use for the new plates from TRF or Moss, because they're pad printed as well. That's how I got the idea. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

 

[Brosky]

Here's a better closeup picture of the engine spec plate. This fills those two holes nicely.

 

[Brosky]

Tom, you're a lot more talented than me. I just got my first photo printer, that does CD's as well, so that's been a been fun to play with. Maybe I'll try my own decals down the road.