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I think I'm gonna go for a repair on my block.

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2wrench

2wrench

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Please don't run out on me cause you think I'm being
foolish. Money comes into play, but it's not all there
is to my decision. My car is nearly 100% stock with
the original tranny and engine and I want it to stay
that way. That being said, I'm not 100 percent in my
decision, but pretty darned close.

I come across a fellow in my area rebuilding
Triumphs and others for people who have the money to
hire him. They want engines saved so numbers match.

He put me onto a resource and has a very high level
of comfort in their ability to repair blocks.

I went to them. The result: They don't think my block
is cracked, they think it is actually a forging defect.
If it is cracked, they insist they can repair it and will
guarantee it. The referring gentlemen says he's been
sending them damaged blocks for years with never a problem.

Below is a picture of my block with the hole in the
cylinder. The plan is to sleeve it. The machine shop
is testing the head and checking the crank. Just based
on a visual inspection, they say the head and crank show
great promise, nothing too glaring, anyway. What can be
Magnafluxed and pressure tested will be. My parts are
in their hands and I await their ultimate decision and
recommendation. Seems as if any other source for
repair hardware was running 700+, so economically and
for posterity, I'm leaning toward the repair/risk.
Also, if I buy an already-built engine, well, I just
ain't learning nothing about building/repairing my
car, right? Hope this pic shows up.
Best to all,


8986 Hole in cylinder.jpg
 

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For what it is worth to you, all the cylinders in my block are sleeved. We had way too much "slap" to comfortably overbore alone, so the machine shop did the overbore and brought the cylinder size back down to 20-over. That was 20,000 miles ago.
 
Thanks, Bill. That's a vote of support. I appreciate
that. Actually, a number of mechanics have told me
to resleeve is quite common and less risky than it
sounds. Hope I'm right, and hope I still get support
from the Forum.
 
2:

I think you are taking a pratical approach.

If knowledgeable professionals are performing a deep
diagnostic inspection of your block and head and
you get a green light- you have saved a $$$ bundle.

Take it from one who knows up close, first hand.

Learning to perform the mechanical stuff with
your own hands? ................priceless!!!

good luck, keep us informed.

d

dalepit.jpg
[/img]
 
2wrench: sleeving a block is a legitimate repair. The only concern would be block integrity. If the shop can Magnaflux the thing to check it and all is right, you're good-to-go!
 
You're making the right decision for sure. The other guys are exactly right- boring a cylinder out and re-sleeving is a common repair in the machine shop world. Some engines have these "dry sleeves" straight from the factory so you can get back to factory specs on a rebuild without boring the cylinders. Something interesting on that type of resleeving is how the sleeves are installed. You put them in the freezer over night, then tap them down from the top. When the sleeves get back to normal tempature they stay firmly in place.
I'd bet you are correct too in the casting defect from the factory. I had a GT6 that had a problem in the casting of the cylinder head, which created a pinhole in the top of one cylinder and starting leaking water into the combustion chamber. My machine shop actually welded it up, resurfaced the head and I was good to go.
Good Luck, and Merry Christmas. Jeff
 
FWIW, Alfa used an alloy block & head with "wet liners" as cylinders. The liners have O-rings at the base and the head holds 'em in place:
 
Sleeving cylinders like that are a common repair technique in old tractors, marine and industrial engines, and old flathead Fords. It's no big deal, and works just fine. I would do it without hesitation or fear.
 
Gotta tell you, it sure makes me feel good to hear
you guys say this. Next is block and head integrity.
Actually, the machine shop and the "block shop,"
told me: "Stop worrying." They say they won't just
jump to good to go, but it does look doable, in their
first-blush look-see.

Here is a picture of the block....and sorry, Dale,
but still working on this picture thing so had to go
old style Photobucket....

P1010018-2.jpg
 
It is hard to tell from your picture, but in my experience, cracks usually start from an edge then run into the casting. To have a crack occur in the middle of the block would in my opinion be very rare. The block repair guys will know what is or is not and what can or cannot be done.

You are on the right track in getting your car back on the road.
 
That looks like a casting feature. I just got my engine back from the rebuilder and spotted something similar. I started to freak and calmed down by thinking a pro that has been in business for years rebuilt this. I took a closer look inside and out and no visible crack, I also noticed that there are several other similar casting features on the block.
I am convinced that this is a result of the sand casting process and is entirely normal.
I sleeve motorcycle engines all the time and my John Deere tractor diesel engine is a wet sleeved engine. It's a acceptable way to regain a usable barrel or block.
I went out and grabbed some quick photos. These first two show the casting feature.
IMG_8170.jpg

IMG_8172.jpg

These next show the surface for the sump cover, no crack showing.
IMG_8173.jpg

IMG_8174.jpg

FWIW
 
I freaked on the top picture but as I looked at the second one and the others, I'm more freaked. It looks like that is one big crack around the block. To my eye, the inside of the block changes apprearance at the crack.

Is there another shop around you area where you could take it and get a second opinion from?

You get now get leak test dye at your FLAPS that's made just for crack detection, I think it's around $15 but haven't used it to tell you how it works.
 
PeterK said:
You get now get leak test dye at your FLAPS that's made just for crack detection, I think it's around $15 but haven't used it to tell you how it works.
Click to expand...

The kits I have seen in the past have a colored dye which you paint onto the area which is being tested then you clean it off, and spray on a white powder. If there are any cracks, the dye will begin soaking into the powder and become a visible stain.
I would take some sandpaper or a grinder and carefully polish that line. If it is just a casting mark it should be possible to smooth out a bit. In any case, on such a rough casting, the dye crack test kits don't work very well.
 
Now you know how I felt when I saw it last night.
The shop, freaked when they saw it and it has been magnafluxed and there is no crack. 2 other points, in person you can see the edges have a roundness to them, indicating a mold feature and it goes across the oil gallery, so if it was cracked it would be filling the engine compartment with oil.
But again it has been magnafluxed and is ok.
The shop I am using has been in business 2 generations and is highly recommended by our local Triumph club. You gotta put your trust somewhere and with those qualifiers, I feel comfortable. Also I have the comfort of a warranty, though that is small comfort as you tear everything apart again "if" something goes wrong.
FWIW.
 
Sleeves are great crack repairs are not. A cracked block is a cracked block; a repaired cracked block is a cracked block that has been repaired. Some how that is not the same as new rings, bearings, seals and gaskets or valves. I don't make the rules, I just know there are a lot of TR6's that have the high $ restoration and the cost to restore is about the same so one with a cracked block that has been repaired is behind the eight ball. All this is just my opinion and it is only related to selling or the market if you sell. It would not apply if the car were being restored for sentimental reasons. Get another block.
 
Wow, Norton, your pics show so much like my block,
for a moment I thought it was mine.

Your point is: Casting defects can disguise themselves
as being a far bigger gremlin than they really are;
and obviously from you blocks looking so much like
mine, they are seemingly more common
than I first imagined.

Thanks for taking the time to post.
 
Dale,

Now you know why my 210# frame isn't in there!!
 
Hey, there, Paul. Very, very nice to see you on line.
I know you've been around, but maybe busy or in a
slump?

Anyway, good to read ya.
 
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