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I spoke too soon

airlifter

Jedi Hopeful
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I got to work on car a bit today. I checked for vacum leaks and I think I have them all sealed up except a small one at the rear carb shaft seal.

Got the idle down to about 800 rpm but the car is still runn ing rough and the rpm fluctuates between about 800 and 1100 rpm.

I also checked the timing and it seems like the timing mark is moving around again. Could this be because the car is running or the the reason for it?

As I said earlier I just got the dizzy back from Jeff at Advance Dist. He mentioned that the timing chain tensioner was not put back properly when I re-assembled the engine. I am 99.5 percent sure that I got it back properly. I have the sore fingers to prove it.

HELP!!!
 
It will move every time that the rpms change....even 50 rpms one way or the other can move the mark. Which means that you have the timing chain on correctly, but it also means that you have to fix that vacuum leak soon.
 
airlifter said:
...He mentioned that the timing chain tensioner was not put back properly when I re-assembled the engine. I am 99.5 percent sure that I got it back properly. I have the sore fingers to prove it.

How does one get sore fingers putting the timing chain tensioner on?

My wife did mine (sort of a ceremonial good luck participation in the work) but she certainly did not get sore fingers.
 
on
Geo Hahn said:
airlifter said:
...He mentioned that the timing chain tensioner was not put back properly when I re-assembled the engine. I am 99.5 percent sure that I got it back properly. I have the sore fingers to prove it.

How does one get sore fingers putting the timing chain tensioner on?

My wife did mine (sort of a ceremonial good luck participation in the work) but she certainly did not get sore fingers.

My fingers were sore from trying to hold the tensioner against the chain while installing the cover. I guess I am fumble fingered.

If you have time bring your wife by. I need all the luck I can get!!!

I have a pair set of carbs from a later model that I might rebuild and change them out.
 
When I replaced the oil seal in the timing chain cover I had a heck of a time fitting the cover back on because of the tensioner. What I ended up doing was to make a hook on the end of a stiff wire to hold the tensioner back. Once I got it seated, I simply unhooked it and pulled the wire back out.
 
I just hooked the cover over the tensioner, and then pushed sideways on the cover until it went into place over the stud and locating pin.

Ask Jeff where the new advance curve starts. It may well be the centrifugal advance moving the timing around, especially if it seems to follow engine rpm. But as long as the timing is only moving within the normal band (ie between the initial advance setting and the total advance for the peak engine rpm), having it change should not cause the engine to run rough.

I forget, did you double-check the valve timing? Having it off by a tooth can cause all sorts of strange symptoms, and the marks are not always correct.
 
TR3driver said:
I just hooked the cover over the tensioner, and then pushed sideways on the cover until it went into place over the stud and locating pin...

Yeah, that's how my wife did it too. I knew she was smart.
 
I did check the valve timing but I will check it again. I will also work on the vacum leaks.

Thanks for the help.
 
I have an extra set of carbs from a later model TR6. I rebuilt them and changed them out today. I might have found part of my problem while changing the carbs. A corner of one of the gaskets was folded up and might have been letting air in.

I hope to get to finish hooking them up and testing next week. I need to get some caps and plugs to plug the extra vacum ports on the later carbs.

I hope some good news follows.

Thanks again for the help.
 
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