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I have an odd question.

adam70

Jedi Hopeful
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Ok, as I've already established before, I do not plan to take the purist approach to my Midget restoration, however. I'm doing the math and for me to get a Rover K series engine, I'll just be wasting money i don't have. on the one hand it sounds like a good engine, but I'm worried about future part replacement and availability, especially cost. So before the rest of you spit coffee on your screens and Basil bans me for being a heretic (i.e. brace yourselves) could I get some advice on going with a 1.8L from a BMW. I know beyond the obvious work it would take to get it in there, I've enven thought of using the suspension, out of BMW's also. and with that the work required to get the rear end of a Z3 underneath a Midget (there goes the "trunk space") the reasons I mainly want to do this, is that I can pick up good engine/tranny for around 3K, and with an engine with an Automatic for a few bucks more. and most of these engines are faily low mileage. parts are readily available, and I could probably even have a dealer service it. well, some parts at least. I'm looking at a custom one off rear end, which would basically be a chopped up BMW rear end. and some parts may cost more than comparable MG parts. but I still feel that by going this route I will save a bunch of money in the end. I'm not looking for a race car by any means, but with so many modern 4-bangers being front wheel drive. its hard to find a suitable transmission for a RWD set-up. if anyone has some pointers I appreciate it. if this sounds like a remotely feasible idea, I may look into the possiblilty of using an inline 6 motor, but I don't want to push the limits too far.
 
Most anything is possible!
I have seen everything from a supercharged V-8 to the Harley engine on a recent post! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
I have seen a few with the Suzuki engine and one with a Toyota.
Ăž
 
The tough thing about these cars is the tiny trans tunnel. And cutting it can create havoc with the unibody, so you need a teeny-tiny trans.
One of the reasons that the 5-speed Datsun trans is used in the 5-speed conversion is because it's so small.
I *think* the old rwd Toyota Starlet engine and trans might fit (and maybe even the old rwd Toyota Sprinter).
The most obvious choice is a Miata engine/trans (with minor tunnel surgery).
Another choice is the Chevette engine/trans (but it's not much of a step up).
I am helping a friend with a swap in a Turner (a car about the size of the Spridget). He's installing a Zetec Ford with Sierra trans (in US the "Merkur"). This looks like a possible for Spridget too. This is the same trans used in the Rover "K" swap.
I am a big fan of the Neon engine and have been looking at various trans combo that will fit it (the Dakota trans will work but it's a bit big).
The Rover "K" motor is really a nice engine...too bad we don't have them stateside.
Even with the live axle rear, Spridgets handle great....I don't think putting in an IRS is worth the effort. I would leave the rear as-is, but add the double-bearing hubs and race axles.
 
I'm looking to avoid an IRS if possible, and I plan on tube framing the chassi anyway, to help tighten it up for the long haul. if I have to mod the trans tunnel, then it looks like I've got my work cut out for me. well, once I get the car here, and get to those areas I'm sure I'll be here and just about everywhere else when I need advice. and I agree the K' series has a nice appeal to it, but once I figured in the shipping with a tranny and everything else to make it work I was going to be spending upward of 12K and at that point I had to ask myself if its worth the cost intialy and in the long run.
 
Based on my experience, assuming you have a vertical mill, a lathe, a welder, and endless time (for free), you're still going to run at least $10k (just a guess). A mill and lathe (of the decent quality variety) will set you back that much as well. Not that I want to discourage the idea, but if you're going to tube-frame the car, why not buy a bunch of fiberglass panels and make your own car underneath? It'd be a bit more expensive and likely more work, but you wouldn't have to adapt as much. Just my thoughts ...
 
No one has mentioned the RX-7 rotary option that seems very popular. A memeber of my club has an MGB with a Volvo engine that he swears by as light reliable and fast. (Of course he's also a Volvo mechanic /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif)

How about going really crazy like a Jag engine? Take a look

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/914Dan/Img_0242.jpg

Good Luck
JP

PS a few months ago Retro Cars Magazine had an article on adapting the ZETEC Ford engine to rear wheel drive. As I recall, it's pretty easy.
 
I was also thinking of the RX7. Isn't that a common swap in late Spitfires? As a lot of the late Midgets ran the 1500 Spitfire engine it might be possible to fit the RX7 powerplant w/o too much panel beating. As mentioned above there would certainly be custom parts to be fabricate.
 
I'm kinda digging the one with the Toyota engine...Doesn't seem that outlandish and a 100 horsepower boost...I'm thinking 160 horses in a spridget would be pretty snotty...
JC
 
Check ebay to find importers of JDM engines.
 
all good suggestions. I know I can find RX7 rear axles just about everywhere, which isn't a bad thing. I do not look forward to an IRS setup. I got access to the tools, but I'd rather use my time on getting the body work right and true, rather than modding too much. I'm still going to tub out the back, as it will help with traction and stability. that bugeye, was nuts, and I'm not wanting anything too extreme. I like the idea of the bmw engine, its reliable, has more than enough power, and not to mention enough headroom, to expand. even if they average 140hp, I've already seen some examples reach almost twice that, with just a few bolton components and some tweaking. I'm guessing the exahust will be a chore, but I can't even think of that now. I may have to wait until januarry for the car now, but its coming out here, and I'm getting anxious. I just bought a brand new shiny 10 draw craftsman tool chest last night, I'll have the box all set up in a few weeks. I gotta get all the tools in line, and get foam cut and set in place. I'm OCD when it comes to organization. the toyota option seems do-able, if the BMW option falls through, then I will definitely look there. I'm really starting to love this place. thanks for all the input.
 
Kinda off the subject, but what kind of foam are you using for your tool box? Where do you get it? I have tried several methods to keep tools organized in the chest, with varying degrees of success. The foam cut-outs sounds like a great idea!

Also, there is a guy here who occasionally autocrosses a heavily modified bugeye with a hotted-up RX-7 motor in it. That thing is SCREAMING fast.
 
The foam cutouts are great but they are a little expensive.
You can get them from SnapOn.
JC
 
I'm confused, if I tried to place my tools in my box with foam organizers, I'd only be able to get 1/3 of them in there. It doesn't take long for me to find what I need (as long as it is in the drawer). What slows me down is looking for tools that are "lost" in the work area. What I need is an assistant to keep track of where I lay things while I'm working.
 
Ditto /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif That's always my biggest problem, finding the tools I had a minute ago! :p
 
If I had cutouts at home, I would need about 3 more storage cabinets...lol. We use them at work but the amount of tools I have at work pales in comparison to what I have at home. I've found that socket rails and segregation seem to work the best. As far as the lost socket deal under the car. I have a 18" magnetic tray that I picked up from Sears a while back. I love it cause it keeps all my small items in one central location.
JC
 
my first choice would be a Suzuki Swift GTi motor mated to a Suzuki Samari tranny. Both are light and compact - comparable size to the A-series. ~115hp as well. If you are going tube frame chassis I'd look into Locost builds - maybe possible to use a modified Locost chassis with Midget body over top - of course you'd lose some of the door functionality.
 
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