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I hate to bring it up, but......

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2wrench

2wrench

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Talking about end play on my cam and those issues makes
me want to revisit....you might have guessed.....
but the old thrust washers again. Dang!

Installed crank and acheived no discernable end play in
the crank. Seemed to turn well by hand. Didn't, like,
continue turning if I gave it a hard twist, but turned
pretty easily by hand. Felt true. Felt good about it.

So the question: Does the crank require -- emphasis on the
word "require" -- end play?

I thought if the thing turned well with no end play, meant it
was good machining and better than having some end play.

Thinking to load the engine in the bed of my truck and
deliver the whole mess to the machine shop for a look at
my cam retainer issue.

Hope I don't hear I need to drop the oil pan, pull the
thrust washers and have them shaved to get a little end
play.
 
2wrench, I believe the manuals state from .004 too .008 end play meaning at least .004 end travel and no more than .008. Take that neat dial indicator you just bought and set it up to measure your end play its hard to guess with out the dial indicator and I believe you can buy different size thrust washers to get correct end play, Vince
 
Yep, got to use the dial indicator. My understanding of the end play issue is that you have to have it for when the engine gets hot, so it won't seize up on you. A definitly bad thing. When I was checking mine I had to whack the end with a dead blow hammer to get it to move. Even though it turned by hand easy enough.

Good Luck, Tinkerman
 
Your key word is discernable. It would be very difficult to feel or see such small end play. I'm sure it is there.
 
As has been said, it is very difficult to feel the endplay pn a freshly rebuilt engine. That dial indicator is the ticket.

Also, if I can comment on the cam retainer plate in this thread... As has also been said, I'll just say it a different way, it is a GOOD thing that the cam retainer plate is too thick right now. It is much better to reduce the thickness of the plate to get to the exact tolerances needed for camshaft endfloat. Your combining very old parts with unknowable wear in areas with brand new parts. Some 'custom' fitting here is the best way to ensure proper clearances. Too much clearance and you have to start messing with shimstock.
 
I installed my new cam with my old retainer, torqued it down pretty hard, and the new cam would turn with some effort, considering that the cam was greased up pretty good and the thing was slippery. But it would turn. Figured that the new cam is hardened steel and the retainer is much softer, and considering that there is a lot of oil being thrown around in there (with t he chain and the oil thrower) that it would wear itself in looser. As long as I could turn it by hand, I feel I am ok. No turning at all seems to be a problem.
 
Bill, Feeler gauge looking for .004-.008" end float, more or less then that you may find yourself back in there soon.
 
TR6oldtimer said:
Bill, Feeler gauge looking for .004-.008" end float, more or less then that you may find yourself back in there soon.
Click to expand...

Oh, all right, Ray, I take her back down. Might have to skim the darn thing.
 
Better now than later Bill. Good decision.

2W, there is a section in the maual on measuring end ply in the crank to check the thrust bearings/washers. If you need it, I can send a pdf.
 
I had a brand new Goodparts GP2 cam and a new retaining plate from TRF. End float on the cam was 0.010". I called Dave at TRF and he reckoned it would not be a problem. I am not too happy about it, but if Dave says it's okay then I will take his word. Compared to the end play on the parts I took off it was tight as a drum, and the engine actually ran okay before, except for the burned valves.
 
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