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Tips

I hate leaks!

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For years, I've always used the cork gaskets on the TRactor motors without any leakage. I glue (use you favorite) the gasket onto the valve cover, and then liberaly apply thick wheel bearing grease onto the bottom side of the gasket that mates to the head. Never had an appreciable leak, and the cover can be taken off without screwing up the gasket. Just apply some more grease when re-installing.
 
Art's showing his age. That's an old time mechanic's trick!

And, it works!

This is how I glue mine, but I still use the Indian Head on both sides.

valvecover 002 (Custom).jpg
 
Kerry,

That is another great "old timers" trick that worked very well on the cork gaskets of yesteryear.

I'm not sure if the composition of todays gaskets would react the same.

I also agree about using Fel-Pro if possible. They always made great (well fitting) gaskets.

Now I'm showing my age again. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/pukeface.gif
 
Like Art, I glue the cork gasket to the cover and only smear a little grease on the head side of the gasket. I do this to both the TR3 and the TR8. Both TRs have aluminum covers. No leaks.
 
I would be curious as to why it wouldn't I have same type of cover on my driver and use the same Felpro gasket. Should work on the silicone, I presume it is made to fit a stock cover, so should work.
 
FWIW, the Wagner silicone gasket has never leaked, and is easy to remove & reinstall, when needed. It's pricey, but worth it. Bob H.
 
roadstergaskets.com:

we hope to have the TR6 gaskets in the fourth quarter this year. We have one new gasket release in front of it. Being a small business we have to wait until we sell enough of our present gaskets to tool the next batch.

Achtung
 
I have a new gasket and valve cover to install on my 6....what kind of glue are you using to attach the gasket to the cover?

Carter
 
I use the red Indian Head Shellac, top and bottom and clamp mine as shown in the picture above. Do this the night before or early morning before you go to work to give it all time to cure properly. At least 8 hours and you'll never have a leak.

Then give the top coat an hour or two to get tacky Before you install the cover.

That advice for any method of gluing that you should choose to go with.
 
I ended up ordering another aluminum valve cover, The one I have is slightly warped.

In the meantime I reinstalled the original steel cover, NO LEAKS AT ALL!

The only thing is the PO had the cover tightened up so tight that it bent the top of the valve cover in some, so it looks like sh@#%..

I hope when the new Aluminum cover comes in, it's a better fit.
 
Bill, for what you pay for an aluminum cover, you could have yours chrome plated and it will look great in your engine compartment.
 
I have an original cover on it's way to New Mexico to be chromed as we speak.

that may take 8-10 weeks before I get it back.

In the meantime how's this look?
(No Leaks!!!) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif

Thanx everyone for your advice on making a good seal! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thankyousign.gif

a12.jpg
 
Getting all dolled up for next Sunday, I see.......

When did you sneak that painted dipstick in on me?
 
Brosky said:
When did you sneak that painted dipstick in on me?
Click to expand...

I'm not that kinda boy Paul. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thirsty.gif



Now that you mention it
I really should have sent the Dipstick to be chromed.
 
I asked a few months ago when I had the valve cover done and $75 was a bit much for a dipstick. So I bought a small can of Testor's Yellow hobby paint and the rest is history.

Speaking of leaks, I found new puddle of perfectly clean oil in the middle of my garage floor. It seems that the O/D cover plate has developed a leak. Great! Just when I have to meet you guys in CT next week.

So I call TRF and order new gaskets and filters while I can still get them.

Plus it was a good time to sneak in the new Tripod halogen headlamps that Charles has on sale. Not a bad deal.

Weekend Special- Tripod Lamps: https://www.zeni.net/trf/weekend/
 
I used a 3M all temp weatherbond adhesive with a cork gasket.

Also used Pauls idea with the clamps and wood.

Works very well so far, but its only been about 10 miles..
Sat. will tell if I did a good job or not....
 
Mines been sitting on my rebuilt motor for 3 years now. I think I glued it to the cover too.
 
From what I can see of the engine(picture is rather dark) I congratulate you. The ONLY improvement I can suggest is the spark plug wires, trying to do away with some of the tangle.

If you haven't tried Permatex "The Right Stuff". Do try it.

Some folks are put off by the higher price, 12 rather than 3.95, but it is worth every penny. Been using it since 96, on Benzes, Porsches, Toyotas, my Tr, E type pans, I strongly recommend it. If you need any further info go to https://www.permatex.com and look at their video of it.
 
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