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I goofed

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roofman

roofman

Jedi Knight
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Just completed replacing my wood dash and key switch. I was so proud, looked great. Started the car and OOOPS, oil line leak at oil pressure guage ( easy fix), turn signals not working ( checking on wiring now) but the real quandry- The car would not shut off!!!! I disconnected the battery-still running, I finally pulled the coil wire out to stop the car.
I used the existing ignition switch with the newer key assembly so I never disconnected those wires. Now that I have the dash out again I need to figure out the ignition switch dilema.
Qeustion- can the ignition switch go in wrong? It has a rectangular prong that fits to the key unit. Could this be rotated and my problem? I could not get the key out of the old key unit w/ interlock so I bought a used one and used the original switch behind it as it worked fine. Before I started the car it felt fine, but would not turn off the car! My car is a 72 TR6. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nopity.gif
 
Roofman- don't feel so bad.

I had just installed my hand crafted teak dash
and completed the Dan Masters wire harness when
the refurbished carbs for the Crypt Car arrived.

So of course I had to see if the dead beast would start.
I cranked it till the battery wore out. No start.

But I DID have quite a few quarts of oil in the
passenger side footwell. I was not aware the oil
pressure gauge hooked up to a tiny oil pipe.

Replace the entire switch and key assembly. I tried
to replace the broken key assembly and use the existing
switch to avoid messing with the wires. Total failure.

best wishes,

tin
 
Any suggestions on whether the Moss or Roadster factory replacement parts are better? Cost is about the same but Moss has 20 % off 1 item sale going on....
 
Decided to take Tinsters suggestion and try a whole new steering lock assmbly and new switch. Ordered from TRF, hope it works.
Still cannot understand why car would not shut off.
 
Way back in the dusty corner of my brain, it seems to me that there is a failure mode of the alternator that can feed power back to the ignition switch and keep the car running. I think that the fix was to install a diode in the alternator harness. I am sorry, but after such a long time I don't recall any specifics. It would be easy to test though. Disconnect the alternator wiring (after taking all precautions to electrically isolate the harness) and see if the car stops normally. Maybe some collector of literature on the list has copies of the technical service bulletins fron the early 70s, and might find the info on the diode fix. Hope this helps,
 
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