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Frank C.

Frank C.

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Does anyone know how to keep the Furflex seal on the door openings of my Healey? I bought some new from Moss and pressed it on but it soon relaxed and is easily bumped loose. I'm thinking it needs some sort of adhesive but I not sure what will work.

Thanks in advance ...
 
[ QUOTE ]
Does anyone know how to keep the Furflex seal on the door openings of my Healey? I bought some new from Moss and pressed it on but it soon relaxed and is easily bumped loose. I'm thinking it needs some sort of adhesive but I not sure what will work.


[/ QUOTE ]

When you find out please let us know--the new stuff is made with aluminum and just won't hold a set like the old (rusty )steel stuff.
 
Would a good contact cement work? When applied correctly it holds well. There are upholstery cements too made for this type of thing. Have not used them myself.
 
I had a trunk seal that nothing would hold, including the contact cement for weatherseals. Finally tried that polyurethane glue -- I used one by Elmer's but Gorilla Glue may be the same stuff. That did it.

It requires that at least one surface be wet though it didn't seem to mind that neither surface was porous. Have to use it sparingly though as it expands as it sets. Clean up any excess before it is fully dry. More workable than the contact cement as you push things into position but it would be hard to undo without harming the weatherseals.
 
Geo,
thanks for the tip. I think I'll give it a try ... It's got to be better than what have now!!!
 
Hold on there the whole lot of U. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif that the Moss door draught excluder is worthless and I have told them so, the product they carry for the TR6 works great.-FWIW---Keoke
 
HI Frank, the part # shown in the catalog I have is: 249-607,"Door Seal,black felt/rubber". This material is in bulk form so order length based on your individual car requirements. Hope this helps---Keoke P.S. Michael @ Moss indicated at a club function that Moss was in the process of lining up new suppliers for their questionable products .We will SEE!!
 
Overdrive

I need some education.I am enjoying my restored '63BJ7 but am unsure how to use the overdrive switch.I have engaged it in top gear and noted a decrease in revs of approx 500 and the obvious feel of a gear change.But.What about switching it off,does it do so automatically?I was worried to find the switch still in the on postion when I went to start car next morning(I had not switched it off on parking ).The thought of engaging reverse while in overdrive does not seem attractive.Help.Before something gets broken.
 
Re: Overdrive

HI John,Once the overdrive is engaged a lock out circuit keeps it engaged for the first 20% of throttle movement. Aways insure that the switch is reset to the off position and the gear lever is returned to the neutral position prior to parking the car.A non overdrive gear Reverse or ISt can then be selected to serve as a hillholder if required.-Regards---Keoke
 
Re: Overdrive

The overdrive works through three [3] switches. 1st the dash switch which allows power to the accelerator switch/relay, then to the gear shift switch. The overdrive will only activated through limitations of the gear shift switch in 3rd & 4th gears - this is a safety switch to ensure that the dreaded reverse could not be selected with overdrive engaged. The accelerator switch allows the overdrive to remain engaged after the dash switch is turned off. A blip of the throttle will then allow the overdrive to drop off as a preventive safety measure. With a blip of the throttle the transmission is momentarily relieved of its vehicle breaking load and allows the overdrive to disengage with reduced loading and related clutch wear.

Regards, Bob
 
The original, unmolested Furflex seal around the door openings on my '67 BJ8 were pop-riveted in place. If you take a close look at the metal lip that the seal slips onto, you will see holes drilled every so often. By carefully drilling or ice-picking a hole into the furflex in alignment with the hole, the furflex can then be pop-riveted in place. This was the method used on my car, which I bought from the original owner in 1974, so I'm 100% sure that it is the original way that it was done. Hope this helps.
 
Ralph,
Thanks for the tip. I just insulated the cockpit and replaced the capeting, vinyl, and other "stuff" but I don't remember seeing the holes you described. I'll look at it this weekend.
 
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