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TR2/3/3A I broke the crankshaft on my TR3

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sammy

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I posted a message last week about the disturbing metallic hammering from my engine. Most thought it was the thrust washer failure. I wish it was. I pulled off the sump and pulled the bearing cap to inspect the thrust washers and when I rotated the crank by hand, I saw a nice big crack open up in the crankshaft between the #4 connecting rod and the rear counterweight.

My current plan is to strip the engine, pull it and check everything as I put it all back together. Unless anyone has any better suggestions. How realistic is it to put a crank in a car with the engine in place? Everything else on the engine looks good. I think the crank failure was a fluke.
 
Sorry Sammy. You can't replace the crank with the engine in place. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Just as a point of interest, there's a crank on ebay at the moment that has about one day left on the listing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Hi Sammy,

Bummer. I was afraid of that when I read your last post. That's right where most of the original cranks break when they get tired. At least it's a fairly easily acquired item and the crank most likely broke just due to old age, not necessarily due to other issues.

You might be able to replace in situ, but you won't be able to inspect very well for other damage, clean the block well and check for clearances like piston deck height, etc.

Frankly, I'd suggest pulling the engine and doing it right, or a replacement crankshaft might do the same thing.

I'd also especially want to check the the conrods, which are usually a weaker link in the engine than the crank, and might have been tweaked when the old crank gave up. When a crankshaft breaks, it usually doesn't do a lot of unrepairable damage elsewhere in the engine. But, if a conrod breaks, it will often destroy everything.

When you get hold of a replacement, it will need some work. Crack detecting and shot peening are a good idea... Balancing, too. All to help the new (old) crank live as long and healthy a life as possible. It's a good opportunity to modify for an improved rear seal, too, if you wish.

Brand new and much stronger replacement billet crankshafts are available, but are extremely expensive. New billet conrods are also available, also pretty expensive, but are a very large improvement over the originals.

Keep us posted.
 
Definately you'll want to pull the motor... The crack opening and closing while running might have caused damage to the crank bearing bores too.
 
[ QUOTE ]
["Get in. Sit down. Shut up. Hang on."]
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif Love it, should be a dash plaque!

[/ QUOTE ]

Actually, I stole the slogan from a friend who was a standup commedian (and a 50-something, single mother of six who owned her own advertising agency). She used to say she had a bumper sticker with that slogan... on her headboard. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Sorry to hear this.
I did similar damage to my TR3 crank when I was in college. A good replacement TR4 engine back then cost me under $200. Obviously, things have changed.
I bought a Spit crank for my 1500 last summer from "Storm Crank" here in the eastern US. If it has a crankshaft, they have it or can get it.

Storm Crankshaft Grinding and Welding Company,
511 Homestead Ave., Mount Vernon NY 10550, United States
(914)664-3563, (914)668-1574 fax, no website
 
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