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Hypothetical Question of sorts - wheel bolts

JPSmit

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This morning I got my winter tires taken off and the summer tires put on. My mechanic had to use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe to get the bolts out - this after only 6 months. (goota love salt and especially salt slurry)

I was wondering though, if you put a thread anti-seize on the the bolts before you reinstalled the wheels would that be wise our would it actually compromise the holding ability and tightness of the wheel bolts.

thoughts?
 
I brush antiseize on the threads but not on the wheel or nut where the nut taper is. A friend of mine has used a little oil on a brush to coat his threads for years and has never had a problem. I like antiseize as it doesn't run. I coat my wire wheel hub splines and nut threads with it also. PJ :rolleyes2:
 
When mounting my winter wheels, I always put anti-sieze on the wheel bolt threads. I also put a thin coat on the flat surface of the hub which contacts the wheel.

Alloy wheels, steel hubs, salt, and a little water = very strong bond. The antisieze seems to help, but in the spring I still need to use a block of wood and a dead blow hammer to pop off one or more wheels.
 
Learned that lesson early with first GTV, in Pittsburgh, 1975. A tire shop tire-changer was convinced they were rusted and cranked up the air wrench instead of asking... Left-hand wheel studs on the port side, harder to come by back then. From then on it's been anti-sieze on all studs and carry-in for tires. No air guns on my nuts. 😏

Anti-sieze on all splined hubs as well.
 
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good to know - thanks
 
This morning I got my winter tires taken off and the summer tires put on. My mechanic had to use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe to get the bolts out - this after only 6 months. (goota love salt and especially salt slurry)

I was wondering though, if you put a thread anti-seize on the the bolts before you reinstalled the wheels would that be wise our would it actually compromise the holding ability and tightness of the wheel bolts.

thoughts?
I became a Jaguar, Rolls Royce and Bentley mechanic late in life and was instructed to always put a thin coat of anti-sieze on the wheel bolt threads.
 
Allways used a small amount of copper slip grease on the bolt threads, common practice when i eas jin the garages doing service work
Never finnish off with an impact wrench.
 
I always use either anti-seize or caliper grease on the studs and have never had a problem. My daily is an ‘08 SAAB 9-5 and SAAB says in their maintenance manual that some sort of grease should be used on their bolts. I also put some on the mating surfaces of the wheel and hub. If the manufacturer says to use it then that’s good enough for me…
Then they get torqued to spec. and i have never had a problem…
It’s rare that anyone but me touches the wheels on any of my cars (unless we need new tires) and that way I know I will get them off if I need to do so on the side of the road because the mechanic who gronches them on won’t be there to help. Incidentally, the Costco that I use don’t use impact wrenches when reinstalling wheels but the do use a torque wrench.
 
When mounting my winter wheels, I always put anti-sieze on the wheel bolt threads. I also put a thin coat on the flat surface of the hub which contacts the wheel.

Alloy wheels, steel hubs, salt, and a little water = very strong bond. The antisieze seems to help, but in the spring I still need to use a block of wood and a dead blow hammer to pop off one or more wheels.
Rear Duallies F350. Chrome outer/Steel inner. Removed nuts. 2 hours of prying, beating, etc. Replaced nuts & drove to a truck service shop. Took them an hour to do both sides. Anti-seize from then on.
 
I use antiseize on anything that gets near water, especially aluminum against steel.
 
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