Hydraulic clutch adjust

[fogdot]

My clutch is engaging right down by the floor. It does fully disengage, so I am not worried about burning it up, but I would like to have a little more movement.
what is there to adjust?

 

[sp53]

You perhaps have weak hydraulic pressure or maybe low on fluid. It depends on what type of vehicle you have because some have no adjustment. A tr3 has adjustment at both the master and the slave cylinders and my old Spitfire had none.

 

[Geo Hahn]

I doubt what you are experiencing will be cured by adjustment.

Certainly try bleeding, also (if you can) look at the movement of the clutch operating arm while someone else depresses the clutch -- should move about 5/8" I think.

After all that, read up on the 'Dreaded Broken Clutch Fork Pin" in the archives or elsewhere.

 

[fogdot]

After all that, read up on the 'Dreaded Broken Clutch Fork Pin" in the archives or elsewhere.

NO! I DON'T WANT TO READ THAT!
It is on my wife's Stag.

 

[tomshobby]

Check one more thing, the slave cylinder mount bolts. I had the same symptoms and found one of the bolts had come loose. Unlikely but it did happen.

But, George is probably answered the question.

 

[John_Mc]

If the Stag has a plastic hydraulic line to the slave cylinder, there is some discussion that the plastic weakens over time, especially when warm, and expands thus requiring more pedal movement to build up pressure in the line to actuate the slave cylinder. I replaced my line with a braided stainless line and that seemed to help some. I actually think what helped more was replacing (or in my case, placing) the pedal shaft bushing.

 

[Tinster]

After all that, read up on the 'Dreaded Broken Clutch Fork Pin" in the archives or elsewhere.

NO! I DON'T WANT TO READ THAT!
It is on my wife's Stag.

<span style="color: #000099">Well then? How 'bout a photo?
Just in case.

d</span>

 

[TR3driver]

Both of my Stags have had badly worn pivot pins and holes, where the clutch MC pushrod is linked to the clutch pedal. Enough lost motion just at that one joint to cause problems with the clutch not disengaging even with the pedal hard against the floor.

Although a proper fix would be to remove the clutch MC and pedal, to have the pivot holes welded up and drilled to original size; what I did was ream them oversize still on the car and fit an oversize pin. Don't recall the sizes for sure offhand; but it was something like the original pin was 5/16 and I replaced it with an 8mm pin.

Might also be worth double-checking that the return springs inside both the slave and the MC are in good shape. On the TR, the spring inside the clutch MC came out in 4 pieces ...

 

[fogdot]

I just replaced a leaking slave cyl with a new slave cyl, properly bled, and the engagement point is the same.
I'm going to replace the plastic line with something solid.
I will look at the pivot pins,but there is no appreciable slop in the movement. It is also a PIA to get to things with the AC lines down there.
This doesn't affect the roadworthiness of the Stag, so it might have to wait until I can get the TR3 out of my only operating bay.
I can't imagine how much money I will spend if it turns out to be the taper pin on the shaft. I don't want to pull the tranny any more times than I have to, so while it's out, I can spend money on the clutch, the synchros etc.

 

[AltaKnight]

Might also be worth double-checking that the return springs inside both the slave and the MC are in good shape. On the TR, the spring inside the clutch MC came out in 4 pieces ...

My TR6 had a broken spring in the MC also