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Hub and pulley and fan alignment question

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tdskip

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Hi guys - the Bentley manual indicates there is a 1/16 hole drilled in the balancer, plate, fan and extension (#71).

TRI-003.gif


I am using a plastic fan, which doesn't have a hole. Nor does my extension.

Do I need to worry about this alignment, or can I simply use white paint to mark TDC via piston travel? Any tips to pass along?

Thanks!
 
Tom- No worries on that hole - its just meant to keep things aligned after the metal fan and components were balanced. With the plastic fan, forgetaboutit.

Just take a look at the pulley you have - you'll either reuse, or make a new TDC mark there.
 
As noted the hole was merely a reference mark, even if your old set-up had one it would meaningless once you change the fan. I replaced a metal fan with plastic and did not take pains to balance -- not a lot of mass spinning there.

I'm not clear on your TDC/white paint reference -- TDC is indicated by a hole in the back lip of the crank pulley, a totally different hole than the one used to reference fan position.
 
Geo Hahn said:
TDC is indicated by a hole in the back lip of the crank pulley, a totally different hole than the one used to reference fan position.
Click to expand...
:iagree:
As long as you reassemble the pulley correctly, the old hole in the pulley half will still indicate TDC. And you don't need the front hole into the extension at all.
 
Thanks guys.

On #75, the Hub Pulley, this appears to be a very tight fit and wanted to check two things;

1) Does the Woodruff key self-align, meaning as long as it is the right one and inthe right place it will locate itself properly once #75 is installed?

2) Am I supposed to uee any grease on #75 when I install it? On the crank extension? On the outside of #75?

First time here, and trying to document the thread (like the transmission wiring questions) in a way that will let a newbie find it via searching and get the info they need.

Thanks!
 
tdskip said:
On #75, the Hub Pulley, this appears to be a very tight fit
Click to expand...
Yes, it should be very snug on the crankshaft. Some are tighter than others, I have occasionally had to use a puller to get it off.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]1) Does the Woodruff key self-align, meaning as long as it is the right one and inthe right place it will locate itself properly once #75 is installed?[/QUOTE]
Yes, although of course you have to turn #75 so the keyway (slot) lines up with the key. I usually install the key with the top slightly tilted toward #75, which makes it less likely to come up out of it's seat while I'm fiddling around getting the slot lined up. As you tap #75 into place, it will rotate the key to the correct position.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]2) Am I supposed to uee any grease on #75 when I install it? On the crank extension? On the outside of #75?[/QUOTE]The polished area where the seal rides should be coated with grease. It's not required anywhere else, although I don't suppose it would hurt anything to put a little on the crank nose and/or hub bore. The crank in my previous TR3A motor was worn a bit undersize, so I used Loctite instead of grease.

Just for clarity, note that #75 should be assembled with 76 and 77 (and 71 if you're using it) before installing the assembly on the motor. Don't forget the orientation between 75 & 77; there are 6 different ways it will go together but only one is correct.
 
One more question - assuming the bolts used should have shank the same depth as the metal parts being assembled. Nylocks nuts or conventional lock washers and nuts, or does in not matter?

I need to trim the bolts still...

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This should help:
 

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How hard should it be to slot the extension (#71) to the crank and key (#82)?

I got it started but it is then really stiff and doesn't want to budge. Do you torque it down / pull it into place with the large bolt (#69)?
 
tdskip said:
... Now what?...
Click to expand...

I guess pull the timing chain cover off, or cut a hole in the bottom of the cover and it will drop out. :devilgrin:

Maybe a skinny, flexible magnet thingie to reach down in there. I feel for you. That is a bummer.
 
Whoo hoo!

Got the key out. After a couple attempts it took a bendable magnetic strip and strong picker-upper thingy.

Should I loctite the key in place for the next attempt?

DSCN4968.jpg
 
tdskip said:
Should I loctite the key in place for the next attempt?
Click to expand...
Maybe, but I would first look into why it's so loose in the keyway(slot). It should be a snug fit in the keyway, any slop indicates a problem.
If the key is worn, replace it. If the keyway is worn, then I would suggest Loctite "circular parts mount" (or whatever they call it these days) for the entire hub/shaft fit.

Also, next time, turn the engine so the keyway is on the top while you install the hub.

PS, glad you got the key out.
 
Thanks guys - good info.

I think the key was just not seated correctly first time around. I cleaned it and the keyway and this time it fit correctly. It is now snug and required some gentle tapping to seat properly. And bumping over the engine so the keyway was pointing to 12 o'clock helped, a practical tip that I probably wouldn't have thought of (rookie brain here).

It is kind of neat to be dealing with all this stuff - with your help - as each of the cars has thrown something new to learn.

Thanks!
 
Hey now - first time dealing with the crank so on this bit I qualify still! Now I'd were a Toyota brake conversion or ZS carb issue that would be different :smile:
 
Still need to bend the tabs over on the fan bolts, but nice to have this installed finally. Thanks for the help guys!

fanfinallyinstalled.jpg
 
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