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TR4/4A HS6 problem

Tr-Beg

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Hi,

For 1 year I didn't use my car, last week I removed the carbs, inlet and outlet manifold to repaint the exhaust. Put everything in place I supposed that after one year the TR will make some difficulties to start to run, I just filled the bowls of the carbs with fuel. I injected a few from a "start pilot" can and... In a fraction of second the motor was running at high speed more than 3.000 and I jumped to shut the contact.

After 3 days of working I still have that problem, the motor will run at 2.000 - 3.000 no idle! Of course the butterflies are closed, the dash are OK with the "click sound", no "starter" position ( the jet are up ) the links to the butterflies spindle are removed ( the carbs are on their own ), the screws for the idle are almost out. If I put a palm on any carb I feel a big suction and the rev of the motor go to idle state.
I cut the contact, I look inside the carbs and the rear seems more wet ( always be careful with a "it's seems" ) you may think the needle valve is bad but I swapped the 2 valves and the "seems" is still for the rear carbs, have already lower the level in the 2 bowls ( but last year I drive and no problems with the previous level ). I have lowered the pressure of the king fuel regulator tomorrow i buy a simple little filter to by-pass it.

Any idea?
 
Vacuum Leak? Intake not seated properly on the mounting.

Cheers
Tush
 
Check the float bowl shut off valves. It sounds like you are getting fuel into the carbs in excess of what it should be.
Have you checked to make sure your floats have not filled and " sunk"?
 
Got to be too much air somehow.

On the TRactor motor, there are two short pins that are supposed to locate the intake manifold to the head. It is surprisingly easy to put together with the manifold not over the pins but being held away from the head by them. Not obvious either, because the top looks OK and you can't see the bottom and sides because of the exhaust.
 
Got to be too much air somehow.

On the TRactor motor, there are two short pins that are supposed to locate the intake manifold to the head. It is surprisingly easy to put together with the manifold not over the pins but being held away from the head by them. Not obvious either, because the top looks OK and you can't see the bottom and sides because of the exhaust.

Hi for everybody,

The PVC valve is connected
Inlet manifold secure in his spigots
not cracked manifold
Throttle shaft not weared
No choke active on any carb


Only indication is the top bowl of the rear carb becomes wet with fuel but I have already swap the needle valve and lowered the level in the bowl.
(What I was surprised is that at 3.000 rpm the serious suction at the input of the carbs with shut butterflies. the dash pots go up for a half centimeter)


Next step : I will put a little filter in place of the King filter ( But I don't believe much with that ).
Ik wil give fuel only to the front carb en see, then only the rear carb en see.


Thanks,
 
Hi for everybody,

The PVC valve is connected
Inlet manifold secure in his spigots
not cracked manifold
Throttle shaft not weared
No choke active on any carb


Only indication is the top bowl of the rear carb becomes wet with fuel but I have already swap the needle valve and lowered the level in the bowl.
(What I was surprised is that at 3.000 rpm the serious suction at the input of the carbs with shut butterflies. the dash pots go up for a half centimeter)


Next step : I will put a little filter in place of the King filter ( But I don't believe much with that ).
Ik wil give fuel only to the front carb en see, then only the rear carb en see.


Thanks,

Hello,


I didn't change the King fuel filter with a little one, I didn't believe it could be the problem...


I blocked the fuel for the rear carb and started the car, the car was running round 1.000 rpm but when I pushed on the accelerator the motor didn't go back to around idle rpm? The butterfly was closed from a look from the entry of the carb carb but with a close inspection with dash-pot removed the butterfly didn't come back always on the same "closed" position, feeling a mechanical drag. I removed the 2 carbs, on the bank everything was OK, I put carefully the carb back in place checking everytime the working of the butterflies, every thing perfect.
I started the car with fuel for front carb, it's OK with always a return to idle rpm. I didn't check with only the rear carb started with the 2 and it's was ok.


The idle is not constant cycling around 900 to 1200 but I changed the level in the bowl yesterday, fine tuning for tomorrow.


Another problem I detected 2 days ago, removing the choke command the jet on the front carb don't go up completely, he need a little push to help the spring to completed the return.
 
Hello,


I didn't change the King fuel filter with a little one, I didn't believe it could be the problem...


I blocked the fuel for the rear carb and started the car, the car was running round 1.000 rpm but when I pushed on the accelerator the motor didn't go back to around idle rpm? The butterfly was closed from a look from the entry of the carb carb but with a close inspection with dash-pot removed the butterfly didn't come back always on the same "closed" position, feeling a mechanical drag. I removed the 2 carbs, on the bank everything was OK, I put carefully the carb back in place checking everytime the working of the butterflies, every thing perfect.
I started the car with fuel for front carb, it's OK with always a return to idle rpm. I didn't check with only the rear carb started with the 2 and it's was ok.


The idle is not constant cycling around 900 to 1200 but I changed the level in the bowl yesterday, fine tuning for tomorrow.


Another problem I detected 2 days ago, removing the choke command the jet on the front carb don't go up completely, he need a little push to help the spring to completed the return.

The final report...


"The idle is not constant cycling around 900 to 1200" in fact WAS because it is OK now, I cleaned the bowl of the carbs and jets with air pressure and cleaned the King filter and the filter and bowl of the mechanical pump.
 
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