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How to Use Spring Compressor

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Cain

Cain

Jedi Trainee
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OK. I've got all the parts I need for the TRF type spring compressor. Now I'm just wondering exactly how to use it.

I've got the old springs off and need to put on the new springs.

It seems to me that I run the all-thread through the hole at the top that the shock thread goes through and put washers and a nut there. Then I place the spring and lower spring plate on the all-thread. Then run the disk with washers and a nut up under the spring plate to hold everything in place. Then - while praying - begin to compress the spring by tightening the nut under the spring plate. Once the spring plate reaches the lower arms, attach the plate to the lower arms and remove the compressor.

Is this even close to correct?

Thanks,
 
You've got the sequence right. The official TRF compressor has a thick aluminum plate that goes over the four shock mounting studs on the lower spring pan though. This is a safety feature ensuring the spring pan stays aligned properly it the spring is compressed. I don't know if your setup (just a washer) offers the same safety margin. Be careful.
 
Actually mine is a circular floor flange for metal piping. The flange is approximately 3" in diameter (haven't measured - just approx. by looking) and inscribes perfectly within the four shock bolts on the bottom of the spring plate. Once in place, it shouldn't be able to move.
 
Hi Cain,

I'm pretty sure your car is similar to my TR4. I've set up a pair of homemade spring compessors similar to what you describe and have used them a number of times. With the standard rate springs, just use the method you describe, but watch that the spring pan doesn't start to tilt badly. I expect the inner two bolts (just above the frame rail) are actually studs with nuts, not bolts like the other four attachment points. If the pan tips too far, it can hang up on these adn get caught against the frame. Besides the other spring compressor mentioned, you can also temporatily install a long, 3/8" bolt in one or both the center holes, to help guide the pan straight off. Those bolts can just be loosely fitted in from above. (By the way, this isn't necessary with the high performance springs I've now got installed. They are much shorter and actually easier to remove, although the spring compressor is still required.)

Finally, I'm guessing your car is set up the same as mine, and you have to remove the lower bump stop bracket from the frame before the sping, etc. can be fully removed.
 
Thanks for the replies, folks. I used it last night on the passenger side and it worked. I plan on doing the driver's side tonight.
 
If I am rebuilding the front suspension(all bushings, ball joint, trunion) do I still need to use a spring compressor? Or will I be able to remove and put the spring back in as I build the suspension? thanks for the help in advance.
 
Only if you want to get all the bits back together again /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Seriously, you don't need the compressor to take the suspension apart as you can jack the spring pan up, remove the pan nuts, and carefully lower the jack to relieve the spring's pressure. However, my experience has been that you cannot use this procedure on reassembly. So, you will have to buy or make the compressor to do the work you're planning.
 
Rick is correct on this. I just finished basically replacing everything in my front syspension, including using springs that were about an inch shorter than stock an I still had to use a spring compressor. You have to compress the lower A-Arm plate quite a bit to get it to bolt to the lower A-arms.

If you want, I can make a template for my TRF spring compressor. I'm sure a metal shop can make one for next to nothing.

-Shannon
 
Actually, you don't need a spring compressor. As mentioned earlier, you can jack up the spring pan up and remove the nuts and bolts to remove the spring. You can do the same on reassembly if you purchase some longer bolts. Just compress the spring pan slightly to install the longer bolts. Once the longer bolts are installed, you can cinch them up evenly until the shorter bolts will fit. Merely remove one long bolt at a time and replace with the correct bolt. Voila, you're done.
 
After doing the job this weekend, I would agree with blacksummerrain. I used just the spring compressor on the passenger side and I essentially did the method he mentioned on the driver side - the exception being that I had the spring compressor in place and tightened for safety purposes. I got everything in place with the spring compressor, then I compressed everything with the jack. I would pump the jack a couple of times and then tighten the bottom nut on the compressor. I did this until the spring pan was in place.

Needless to say, I did the driver side much faster.
 
I've never tried substituting longer bolts, but it obviously worked in at least one instance. Whenever I tried raising the spring pan with a jack, all it did was raise the car without compressing the spring. Perhaps that was because I had new springs in there.

Rick O.
 
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