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How to undo a flange nut..?

Ian R

Member
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I'm trying to renew the oil seal on the front of the differential but I cant undo the flange nut.
I've tried a breaker bar with a length of tube to extend the leverage and I've tried an impact gun.

Has anyone got any suggestions how to undo it..?
 
What size impact driver? A 3/4" would probably work @ 90PSI or higher; otherwise, you need a longer breaker bar or tube. It it's rusted on, penetrating oil and a little heat should help.
 
What size impact driver? A 3/4" would probably work @ 90PSI or higher; otherwise, you need a longer breaker bar or tube. It it's rusted on, penetrating oil and a little heat should help.

I only have a 1/2" impact wrench. No sign of any rust...I've had a breaker bar with a 3ft scaffold tube on it but was reluctant to give it too much grunt in fear of breaking something...(the diff that is..not part of me..!).. I've tried a little heat on the nut but am unsure how much I can heat it without cooking something...
 
The only thing you'd cook would be the seal but, presumably, if you have the nut off you'd put in a new seal on principle. Penetrating oil, heat and your impact wrench cranked to 11 should do it.
 
Impact driver on removal, but on install would it be necessary to set a preload. Could this be achieved by indexing the nut with flange before starting, followed by tightening nut to match index on install. Or, alternatively set nut to a torque value? GONZO
 
Gonzo,
Not necessary to worry about bearing preload - that is set with spacer and shims like front wheel bearings. These do not have the "crush sleeve" that American cars mostly have. Just tighten the S**t out of it (I am not aware of a torque spec but the last time I had a dif. set up the old pro said about 150#).
Dave
 
try lots of penetrating fluid. If you can borrow or rent a 3/4" impact (and appropriate socket), that is best.
A small story: about 20 years back, we'd bought a used car and I dragged my 18 year old son out to help break the wheel nuts loose (over his 'why' objections) . I had an el cheapo 1/2" drive impact that got most of them off, plus borrowed a 1/2" Ingersoll Rand impact; etc. etc. etc. The final wheel nut did not want to come loose. Dan (my son) was over 200 pounds at the time, and we put him on the end of my unbreakable Craftsman socket and unbreakable Craftsman breaker bar and a five foot snipe (i.e. we're at least 1000 foot pounds of torque here) and he climbed on the end of the snipe and bounced and... the socket broke. Replaced the unbreakable socket with an impact socket, and we got it off - he figured the old man wasn't as crazy as he appeared.
Try heat; try penetrating fluids of your preference; order a new main seal as you'll need it anyway. And whenever you get work done that means the wheels come off - or buy a used car - take off the wheel nuts and torque them properly, as even road side assistance couldn't have gotten that last #$%^&* wheel nut off. Doug
 
Ian - If you are working from the top with the Wheels (handbrake engaged and in gear for belt and bracers) on the ground, there should not be a major problem, I used a 4' breaker bar on mine with an extension bar into the tunnel and it worked a treat. It is doubtful that you would break anything.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Done it..!
Soaked in penetrating fluid overnight, borrowed a better quality impact gun & cranked my compressor up to the max.
Thanks to you all for your input.....
 
Ian

Now you have to find a torque wrench to do it up again, unless you have one already :congratulatory:

Though you could use that impact gun that you borrowed - are they controllable ? I have no experience of them.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Ian

Now you have to find a torque wrench to do it up again, unless you have one already :congratulatory:

Though you could use that impact gun that you borrowed - are they controllable ? I have no experience of them.

:cheers:

Bob
Mine only go upto 120 lb.....luckily my neighbour lends me engineering tools and I lend him construction tools...fair exchange...!
 
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