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How To Solder Gauge Ground Wires??

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Hello Doug,

"There is no substitute if you need to solder to steel."

I have always been able to use standard resin cored electrical solder to tin steel, not acid fluxed. There is also 'solder paint' if you need to do a lot of soldering as in lead loading. In case you are not familiar with it is a paste of flux and solder that you brush onto bright steel, copper etc and heat up and wipe to leave the surface tinned.


Alec
 
Piman, think back to what you've soldered with resin flux or resin cored solder. I suspect that when you think back on it, the metal you were able to use resin flux with was tin, zinc (or maybe even nickel) plated. If the steel already has a coat of zinc or tin on it (and no sealers or oils) you can sometimes get resin to work. However, don't confuse a common universal flux like "NoKorode" with resin core.
(see https://www.rectorseal.com/productdata/slderingprdcts/dsreglarps.htm )
It falls in a category somewhere between resin and acid. Electrical guys (and the vendor) will advise you to NOT use NoKorode on wiring for the same reason Keoke posted his reminder about the affects of acid flux on wiring. I'll repeat but clarify my earlier statement that on "bare" steel you cannot use resin core solder, you need acid flux.
 
I use acid flux to solder stainless steel in the office all the time. Of course, I am using silver solder.


Bill
 
When I started the TR3 resto, I decided that where I could, I would use lead for the filler. Especially if at a welded seam or at an edge. Tinning was always the biggest bug-a-boo until I got a jar of this tinning butter from Eastwood. This stuff is very easy to use, but, I don't think I'd be smearing it on an instument and taking the propane torch to it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
Martx-5, how did you like the tinning butter? I contemplated ordering it during my last project but decided to stick with the fluxes I already had. Did you also buy the maple paddles and the tallow. Overall... what did you think of Eastwood's lead work products?

TR6Bill, if you're using an acid flux on stainless it sounds like you're using the low-temp silver solders and perhaps the "StayBrite" flux products. Those have always worked for me but surface prep work on stainless always seems to be more critical.
 
Hi dklawson,

I bought all my stuff from Eastwood. Originally, I didn't use the tinning butter, but once I did try it, I wouldn't go back to the flux/solder. I also tried using solder from work (10/90 and 60/40), and both were a bear to use. Too short of a temperature range where it's like peanut butter. The regular 30/70 body solder is much easier to use. Eastwood's stuff is usually more expensive then elsewhere, but I've never been dissappointed with their quality.

And, there's nothing like the smell of hot tallow in the morning. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
Thanks Martx-5. I've always been satisfied with Eastwood supplied. Years ago I bought a pound or so of their body solder and like you I found it was much easier to work with than what I'd used before. I didn't invest in tinning butter but based on your results I'll certainly try it next time.
 
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