• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

How To Repair Floor Pans

Share this page

T

Tinster

Guest
Guest
Offline
Here is a fairly simple "how to"
install a decent floor pan repair
if constraints exist that will not
permit complete pan removal and
welding of new steel by a professional
body shop.

When the Crypt Car is functioning again
I will have the rotted floor pan dealt
with by professionals. For now, I need
something solid to place my feet.
Here is a photo "how To".
https://community.webshots.com/album/555363304QPPuyc

Here is the finished product, I hope anyway.



completed.jpg
 
You've got the whole darn car torn apart and you're worried about installing the distributor?????????????

Dale, you can do far more than you give yourself credit for being able to do.
 
Back in my LBC dealin days I had a way of dealing with lesser floorboards....Lets just say it involved aluminum sheet metal and ALOT of tar.
 
Dale, how far do you want to take this project in your workspace?

For DIY repairs of floors w/o welding I'd take the approach of stripping off all the old paint and rust mechanically using wires wheels followed by degreasers and finally phosphoric acid. Once you've done that, trim away all the lacy edges so you can create an opening that be covered by a piece of sheet metal.

Take cardboard and form a panel that overlaps the cut edges of the opening in the floor by about 1 inch. Use the cardboard to transfer the shape to a piece of sheet metal and cut out your patch panel. In the past (before I had a welder) I've pop riveted panels like that in place. There are now structural bonders like Fuzer (Fuser?) that you can apply. You'll probably still want to use pop rivets with the bonder, but together they'll give you a strong and sealed seam.
 
Re: How To Repair Floor Pans *DELETED*

Post deleted by Basil
 
Doug: You are making me chuckle with your text:

You wrote:

"I'd take the approach of stripping off all the old paint(yup, I did that) and rust mechanically using wires wheels (yup, I did that)followed by degreasers (yup, I did that)and finally phosphoric acid( yup, 3 times I did that).

Once you've done that, trim away all the lacy edges so you can create an opening that be covered by a piece of sheet metal. (Yup, I did that one as well.)

Take cardboard and form a panel that overlaps the cut edges of the opening in the floor by about 1 inch. ( Yup, I made a template)Use the cardboard (I used TPO sheet stock)to transfer the shape to a piece of sheet metal (I used .050 aluminum)and cut out your patch panel. In the past (before I had a welder) I've pop riveted panels like that in place.
( I used sheet metal screws and industrial bonding agent) There are now structural bonders like Fuzer (Fuser?) that you can apply. You'll probably still want to use pop rivets with the bonder,(I used sheet metal screws at borders) but together they'll give you a strong and sealed seam."

Wow, you made me happy knowing my home brewed process has been used before and it works!!

Thanks for the input, appreciated,

Dale"
 
Great job Daryl, you need to give your self more credit than you do.

One minor note, however & that is using aluminum & steel back to back. The electrolyis between the two diff metals can be nasty. I know this from having owned a couple of Land Rovers which use steel structure and aluminum, actually Birmabright bodys. You need to have an insulating buffer like silicone or a beading between the two to prevent it.

If you have already got it together there is an option that works pretty well & that is to spray some
Corrosion X on it, I have used it on my Rovers & it actually stopped the process after it had started.

Use it on all my marine gear & it's great.

https://www.corrosionx.com/

Keep up the good work!
 
correct on the galvanic corrosion. one other point about aluminum, it depends on the grade whether it is salt corrosion resistant or not. typically the grades are 5000 series, not 6061,7075,2024.
rob
 
Where's Daryl? Is this the famous Daryl & Daryl team from Northern Exposure now transplanted in sunny Puerto Rico?

Good point about the different metal to metal issues.
 
Yeah, tis true enough but I used my head and
installed zinc washers as sacrifice to the gods
of galvanic corrosion. LOL

Daryl? He changed his name to Mike and moved to
Woodstock, GA where makes these great Power Block
wire harnesses.

d
 
I might have mentoined it before but THIS IS THE TWENTY FIRST FREAKIN CENTURY !!Please wake up and smell the adhesives!! There are truely wonderful metal bonding adhesives on the market that make this type of repair a snap and permanant. My favorite at the shop is 3M but thats MHOP. So put down the screws and pop-rivits and pitch the tar!!
MD(mad dog)
 
[ QUOTE ]
I might have mentoined it before but THIS IS THE TWENTY FIRST FREAKIN CENTURY !!Please wake up and smell the adhesives!! There are truely wonderful metal bonding adhesives on the market that make this type of repair a snap and permanant. My favorite at the shop is 3M but thats MHOP. So put down the screws and pop-rivits and pitch the tar!!
MD(mad dog)

[/ QUOTE ]

Mad Dog,
I am a big fan of Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing products. Anything that 3M makes in the dental line is a quality product. Specifically, which brand, by name, do you recommend from 3M to bond metal-to-metal. I searched their website and could not find any product that was recommended for automotive structural panel bonding, such as floorboards. Curious.

Bill
 
Tinster
you are a legend.
By the way, did you notice your steering wheel is on the wrong side?????????
When I have problems with my 6, I just read one of your posts and I feel much better!!!
Regards
Craig
 
Back
Top