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MGB How to remove all emissions controls

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Boggsy64

Boggsy64

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I believe many of you have been down this road before... I have a 1977 MGB with some of the emissions (stuff.. crap) removed, air pump, manifold injector, etc.. I want to remove the rest. I have seen engine compartment pics with and without, a huge improvement without. Most of the valves and stuff are non-functional now anyway. I do not have to pass emissions testing here. I am morally OK with doing this. Does anyone know all the parts that can be canned and what needs to be done as a result..(i.e. plug this when removing that)? Also does the Zenith still work without? Or if you have a link to somewhere.. I tried university motors but could not find info.:eagerness:
 
It is Federally offensive... and I ~like~ it!

...but I ain't tellin' ya over th' interwebs how t'do it. I suspect John won't make that vid, either. The ASE takes a dim view, IYSWIM. Those Certs are costly and time consuming to get.


EDIT: NOT trying to be snarky here, Boggsy! Please don't take it personally.
 
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Boggsy64 said:
I believe many of you have been down this road before... I have a 1977 MGB with some of the emissions (stuff.. crap) removed, air pump, manifold injector, etc.. I want to remove the rest. I have seen engine compartment pics with and without, a huge improvement without. Most of the valves and stuff are non-functional now anyway. I do not have to pass emissions testing here. I am morally OK with doing this. Does anyone know all the parts that can be canned and what needs to be done as a result..(i.e. plug this when removing that)? Also does the Zenith still work without? Or if you have a link to somewhere.. I tried university motors but could not find info.:eagerness:
Click to expand...

All I'll say is, you didn't improve the performance one bit by removing the air pump and injector manifold! Our B has all the environmental equipment in perfect working order, the engine gets 31 mpg and has plenty of power, but the car was restored to factory specs. I, like others, will not say how to bypass the pollution system on any car. There are performance enhancements, but I'll leave that for the experts to comment on, such as Hap Waldrup for one. PJ



 
One thing - that I Think. <think> I don't know, but, I had a lot of trouble getting my Zenith Stromberg to work right without the emissions. (I finally took mine off in favour of an SU) I believe this is because it is designed to work with the emissions. (I do know for instance that a ZS needs the proper air cleaner to work well) Now, this all applies to my Midget (not a B) and as I said is hearsay but, you might want to check if it will affect the carb. (Mine always ran rich)
 
Wow...some beautiful pics! Mine is not that pristine. I did not remove the stuff it was removed before.
The parts that are left I have found electrical connectors that are totally shot with no connection...fell right off. So i am sure the system is not working. I do appreciate now why no one is providing a step by step... The federales!
It's just a **** shame noone in gvmnt will admit some things are best kept simple. Look what they did to the VW. Better in its original form, more efficient, and cleaner, than when the crap was piled on...killed it off.
 
One point: Some of the emissions stuff makes thing better. For example, the PCV valve will tend to keep down crankcase pressure, reducing oil leaks and clearing out moisture from the crankcase. If you simply plug all the connections for your PCV system, you won't be doing your engine any favours. Also, the fuel tank carbon canister is part of the fuel tank venting system. If you just remove it and just plug all the lines, your fuel pump will struggle: the tank needs some form of venting.
 
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