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TR2/3/3A How to pour in the ZZ zinc stuff?

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sp53

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How to pour in the ZZ zinc stuff? I am about ready for a trial start on my tr3 with the new cam. I have not put the push rods in yet, but I am there. Anyways, when I add the ZZ zinc stuff, should I mix it into a quart or so of oil or just dump ZZ stuff over the cam right out of the bottle and go for it.

Thanks steve
 
I have always used a 30W non-detergent oil and i pour them in together as a mix. Then run engine 20 minutes at 1500 to 2000 rpms to seat new cam. Shut down and change to correct oil and filter immediately after. If you put in a new cam I would think you changed the valve seats to hardened seats and the zinc will not be needed.
 
Yes the seats are hard. I thought the Zinc mix was for friction on the lifts and lobs. The last time the cam failed and burned off one of the cam lobs. I have never used the zinc additive, but I hear people but this zinc in to appease the cam gods.

steve
 
The ZZ stuff is a ZDP additive, I take it. If so, it is just added to the oil. The cam should still have some break-in lube smeared all over the lobes.

The ZDP additive is probably prudent for a new cam or new engine. ZDP requires molybdenum to work, so a moly break-in grease is a good choice. After break-in, you don't need a ZDP additive, and shouldn't use one, as you could easily end up with too much, which actually can be damaging. I'd run it for a couple thousand miles and then change the oil with a good 10W-40 or 20W-50 oil. These invariably have enough ZDP and all the other additives you need.

(Before I get flamed for denying what "everyone knows" about ZDP, please take a look at this: http://sprite.nonlintec.com/oil_myths.pdf)
 
Lubing the cam is a must and lifters before installing and running. Seats the lobes. My wife drove a GT6 for 13 yrs to work and I never once worried about valve wear. Had a burnt valve once, not to wear, but was a very reliable car.
 
Thanks for the write up information Steve, it was very interesting. I appreciate the sharing. Hey Steve-- I met a tr3 guy from Vancouver Island with the same last name as yours. I figured two British car guys with the same last name probably not a coincidence.

Steve
 
I don't think I know him. I don't have any siblings, and very few other relatives. It's not a common name over here, but in The Netherlands and Belgium it's pretty common, so I encounter it from time to time.

Glad you found the article interesting. It's written by (I'm told...) GM's main oil guru, so it comes from someone with real knowledge.
 
Ok now I am confused. I have hardened valves and have not started my engine yet but I thought we always had to get oils with higher levels of ZDDP (is this the same as ZDP?). My camshaft is smeared with assembly lube. So I have a case of Penn oil obtained from TRF with ZDDP that I planned on using. But after that according to the article I can use most any oil? Sounds like that is what the article is saying but seems to go away from what other threads have said. Bruce
 
Once the engine and cam have undergone whatever break in procedure you choose and it's time to start using the motor oil for regular use from then on out, just select one that contains ZINC (or ZDDP whatever that refiner wishes to call it) but do not add zinc or zddp as additives to that motor oil.
 
If you install a new cam, use the manufactures recommendations for break in to the letter! My XPEG engine is tight and I use Valvoline 20/50 in it and it has all the ZDDP you need. I don't drive the car in very cold weather, so I don't need to put in lighter oil.
 
bammons said:
Ok now I am confused. I have hardened valves and have not started my engine yet but I thought we always had to get oils with higher levels of ZDDP (is this the same as ZDP?). My camshaft is smeared with assembly lube. So I have a case of Penn oil obtained from TRF with ZDDP that I planned on using. But after that according to the article I can use most any oil? Sounds like that is what the article is saying but seems to go away from what other threads have said. Bruce
Click to expand...
it is the lead in the petrol that protects the exhaust valve seat, and as there is no lead anymore it is suggested to fit the hardened valve seat instead. there is a lot of lead "memory" on less frequently used cars and those that have not had the head off.
i used an lead replacement additive in the fuel ( with and octane booster ) (uk web site)

Millers Oils VSPE Multishot Lead Replacement Fuel Additive from Merlin Motorsport

Millers VSPE Power Plus Multishot Lead replacement fuel additive prevents ethanol corrosion and valve seat recession. Millers VSPE is also an octane improver. Millers oils in stock.
www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk
great stuff.

but my new engine have the valve inserts.

as to ZDDP in engine oil you need 1100ppm or there about for out old car engines to maintain the various mix and match of metals used bronze brass white metal ali etc
modern cars don't use ZDDP oil as it destroys the catalytic converters.
so you need to look for a classic oil or similar.
i don't skimp on oil and use valvoline VR1 mineral (uk web site)
but currently on a cheaper classic oil for running in as its not under stress and will only be in for 500 - 1000 miles
 
Have no clue as to the actual needs. Unless you are racing and drive your LBC with a continual hot foot, lead is not a tually needed. Escpecially since the LBC is not a daily driver. As for the Zinc additive I really never use it except on start of rebuilds or decokes. These are rare on a care gievn LBC. Only engines I have rebuilt are ones I bought from owners who do not care for there cars. I use premium fuels for valve cleaning and the RON desired by the old manufacturers. I use premium oils, Royal Purple for racing and competition, Castrol for daily drivers. I have never had a breakdown except for the sensors, belts and other manufacture parts, which are not up to par anymore. After 55 yrs of LBC work, mostly Jags, Land Rover and MINIs never have personal issues. Other owners, different story, these are no Toyotas. And i won't work on them. Boats need care in the fuel department with the alcohol, same as the hoses for LBCs.
 
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