• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

How to make my own 1098 radiator-to-waterpump hose

Share this page

Luke_Healey

Luke_Healey

Jedi Trainee
Offline
Have any of you dealt with the goofy hose that connects the lower radiator to the water pump as well as the heater core?

Tonight my popped a hole in itself right at the connection to the small hose that juts off to the heater core connection.

It's too ratty to repair, but I was wondering if any of you have worked with T fittings and cut up the old hose to make a new piece.

I'll be ordering a replacement I guess, but I thought I'd ask.
 
IF you're gonna order a replacement, Victoria British has KEVLAR reinforced ones for only about $5 more than stock. Mine broke at that same juncture, mostly because, (i think) the copper tube wasn't STRAIGHT above the hose outlet and had a little bend in the hose to hook it up.. When i installed the kevlar one, i cut about an inch off the connection to the block end of the hose to make it line up better with said copper tubing.
 
Do you think the kevlar version is worth the extra four dollars? The non-kevlar one is pretty nice. It's this more supple style rubber, different from your typical parts store Gates item.

I hate doing business with VB since I disrespect their shipping rates, but since I'm 200 miles away, parts tend to show up the next day.
 
I have a microcar friend who has (among many other things) a Prefect. He goes to Canadian Tire (or NAPA) and asks to look at their rad hoses till he finds the right shape/ size - then just cuts it down.
 
I have a 3/4 inch pipe Tee and a bushing down to 1/8 pipe screwed into the Tee and a short 1/8 nipple on that. I used that when I broke that hose one time and keep it in my spares should I need it along with 3 clamps. I had overheating problems at that time and thought the Tee might be causing the problem but it was not. I would think that a 1" copper T with the right reducer for the little hose might work even better because its so thin.
 
Here's my four dollar fix.

When my other hose from VB shows up tomorrow, I'll keep this in the trunk.

2669405839_b75b9b023a.jpg


2669406065_8125db2cde.jpg


Photo taken at a gas station at night, sorry...
2669406183_c2fa04dc71.jpg


I'm still getting hotter than my thermostat temperature after running that Zerex cleaner through the cooling system. Tonight I was running about 190 constantly or a bit under. The thermostat is a 180F one. I need to figure out how to better clean the radiator. I didn't notice any gunk come out of the system when I drained it last night after the hose broke. Of course, I only drove with the cleaner in there for about an hour, unfortunately.

2669405571_03012e512c.jpg


Temps are definitely about 15 degrees cooler. Imagine that, I took out a 195F thermostat :wink: Perhaps my dash gauge is inaccurate.
 
I should think I would check the thermostat on the stove to see if it really is 180. Would also check the guage and see if it is accurate, same stove, but you have to remove it from the car. Well maybe not, dunk the sending unit in a pot of boiling water just off the stove, should be just a bit under 212.

However. nothing wrong with 190, 200 all the time would bother me but not 190.
 
I need one of those fancy IR thermometers to point at the block. I've never boiled over, even when my temp gauge registered above 212. So perhaps I am OK.

Since I'm running this ratty lower radiator hose, I'm going to continue my home-brew radiator flush. Tonight I'm running a gallon of white vinegar through the system for an hour of driving. There is no reason the car should ever get above thermostat temperature, which mine still has been doing. The car came from northern Iowa, so perhaps their water was prone to calcium buildup in the radiator. The block is rusty looking inside.

So I'm gonna keep on scrubbing until the new hose shows up.
 
It's a plan.
 
Re: How to make my own 1098 radiator-to-waterpump

jlaird said:
I should think I would check the thermostat on the stove to see if it really is 180.
However. nothing wrong with 190, 200 all the time would bother me but not 190.
Click to expand...
Keep in mind that an automotive thermostat has tolerances built into it's rating.

For example, a typical thermostat rated at 180 degrees F should start to open at a temperature of 169 to 185. It should be fully open at around 202.
D
 
Re: How to make my own 1098 radiator-to-waterpump

It's torture having a car where you see the temperature in degrees. My modern vehicles all have COLD----HOT style gauges and a circuit that makes them register dead center if everything is working within a certain range.

With the Sprite, I pay more attention to the oil pressure and water temperature than I do the speedometer :wink:
 
Re: How to make my own 1098 radiator-to-waterpump

Yup, the dumbing down of guages... pretty soon they'll install speedometers that read:


Too Slow Fast Enough Too Fast

....................../\.....................
...................../..\....................
......................||.....................
......................||.....................
......................||.....................
......................||.....................
 
Re: How to make my own 1098 radiator-to-waterpump

Seem to remember my 180 degree one when I tested it was full open at 185 or as close as I could tell.
 
Re: How to make my own 1098 radiator-to-waterpump

Are there any taps in the block where you can install an auxillary temp gauge in the 1098? I do happen to own a Sunpro temp gauge that is brand spanking new :wink: It'd be a good secondary test.
 
Re: How to make my own 1098 radiator-to-waterpump

tosoutherncars said:
Yup, the dumbing down of guages... pretty soon they'll install speedometers that read:
Click to expand...


This bring up an interesting discussion. I've read for example that on Tachs we really only need 4 marks, .. Idle, Peak Torque, Peak Horsepower, and Redline.. The numbers are superfluous. Same with Oil Pressure Gauges, and Temperature Gauges. The numbers just cause unneeded --attention, fretting, argument... Speedo's need more, so's not to get tickets, but most other guages only need show operating range, and Danger Zone... (flame suit on)
 
Re: How to make my own 1098 radiator-to-waterpump

You forgot the all important "Peak Fuel Economy" mark :wink:

It's somewhat true. I have no idea what temperature my daily drivers run. They creep up to dead center and the needle doesn't move from there thanks to the electronic circuit that forces it to stay there without wild fluctuation.

I think the oil pressure warning light only comes on at 6psi or less in my cars.

The Sprite has me nitpicking every detail and chasing problems I'd probably ignore otherwise.
 
Re: How to make my own 1098 radiator-to-waterpump

Prob a lot of truth to your comments Luke. I am the same way. I worry about every twitch.
 
Re: How to make my own 1098 radiator-to-waterpump

When I calibrated my gauge and put a new bulb on it, my gauge does not have numbers so I made the spot where the white normal range turns to black hot range the exact boiling point of water in a pot on the stove. I know that if it is still in the white then I am ok.
 
Re: How to make my own 1098 radiator-to-waterpump

<span style="color: #FF0000">I need to emphasize how much VB's cheaper Malaysian radiator hose sucks. It's too small. I had to use vaseline to install it and that barely worked. Much cussing, bloody knuckles, etc.. The Kevlar reinforced hose must be the one that states "Made in England" on it. </span>

It's sad to see aftermarket parts for my cars, scooters, etc... all turn to crap. Prices aren't that much cheaper than quality items either...

The hose that went bad on me was made in England though, so we shall see how long this rubber one lasts.
 
Back
Top