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How to loosen crank bolt
- Thread starter bugedd
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D
Deleted member 8987
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Nope.
120 PSI minimum for an air hammer.
Some shops set up for 130+.
120 PSI minimum for an air hammer.
Some shops set up for 130+.
D
Deleted member 8987
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Now, before you A) spend the money on a high-output compressor (and 15 gallons is not a very big reservoir....but, if you have a whole lot of flow it should be fine) and B) a big air hammer.....
1) You said earlier there was a hole in the timing cover.
1a) what does this hole look like? Is it a vertical slit?
2) You said earlier the rack was in the way......so, are you going to pull the rack, or the engine, to use your air hammer?
Now, there aren't too many ways for a timing cover to "get a hole" in them.
Rust, yes.
Drill and drill bit....maybe.
14" long piece of re-bar flipped up off the interstate.......well....
However, if the timing chain is astoundingly worn, and flopping against the inside of the cover, you can end up with what looks like a vertical slit or even an "H".
Granted, been a lot of decades since I've worked on a BE, and can't recall which models actually have done this, but I've seen enough to mention it as a possibility.
IF that's the case, you're going to go through all of this and then end up pulling the pan anyway to clean out any filings and bits residing there, in which case you could jam the crank and use a breaker bar.
1) You said earlier there was a hole in the timing cover.
1a) what does this hole look like? Is it a vertical slit?
2) You said earlier the rack was in the way......so, are you going to pull the rack, or the engine, to use your air hammer?
Now, there aren't too many ways for a timing cover to "get a hole" in them.
Rust, yes.
Drill and drill bit....maybe.
14" long piece of re-bar flipped up off the interstate.......well....
However, if the timing chain is astoundingly worn, and flopping against the inside of the cover, you can end up with what looks like a vertical slit or even an "H".
Granted, been a lot of decades since I've worked on a BE, and can't recall which models actually have done this, but I've seen enough to mention it as a possibility.
IF that's the case, you're going to go through all of this and then end up pulling the pan anyway to clean out any filings and bits residing there, in which case you could jam the crank and use a breaker bar.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
Offline
The important number is CFM Flow at 90 PSI. That needs to be matches with Torque Rated in Ft/Lbs as well as the CFM Requirements of the Impact Wrench. Also shorter air hose the better as length as well as number of connectors and size of Air Hose 1/4" too small. 3/8" marginal. go for 1/2" Hose and 1/2" adapters.
There ought to be a tool rental place that can provide compressor and BF Impact Wrench.
There ought to be a tool rental place that can provide compressor and BF Impact Wrench.
mightymidget
Jedi Knight
Offline
Can you drill crack ends and weld, or use a metal treatment to repair (as in gas tank repair)
OP
bugedd
Jedi Knight
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HA! Pulling the starter and sticking a prypar and the ring gear took care of it. It took everything I had in me to break that sucker loose, but I got it! Now how to get the crank pulley off.....prybar against the timing cover I am replacing? I mean, who cares if I mess it up?
