A quick refresher...
Once I got my new TR3 engine back in the car, I had to remove the head to replace the casting plug (freeze plug is actually a misnomer) on the back of the head that was leaking. The engine hadn't been started and I was told that I might be okay using the old gasket (I know it's not the best way to do it, but I did it anyway). I cleaned the gasket with acetone and re-sprayed it with copper sealer and re-torqued in a three step process -- 30, 60, 90. The manual called for 100 to 105, but ARP, via a phone call, said 90. After a couple of hours, I noticed coolant leaking from the head bolt on the intake/exhaust side between #1 and #2.
Since that time, I've have had two conversations with British mechanics that have been building TR3 engines since the mid 50s -- one on the East coast and one on the West coast -- I will not give their names to protect the innocent.
As I've said in the past, I get completely different answers/opinions from everyone I talk to. Here's what they had to say about the issue...
One said to use the copper/asbestos gasket and do a one step torque right to 105 ft. lbs., and don't use the steel-shim gasket because "you'll have more problems than you have right now." The other said to torque the copper gasket in a three step process to 102 ft. lbs., but said that the steel-shim gasket is your best bet, because it will NEVER leak. He also said that this is not uncommon -- not that you WANT it to happen -- but sometimes it does. He also suggested to try Barsleak (not sure of the spelling, but you all know what it is). That should/could stop the leak, then you could drain the coolant and put in new after the leak is stopped.
On a completely different matter, I asked about the "D" grind cam I purchased from TSI. Since this is a regrind and TSI does not harden the cam after it is ground, I asked if that was okay. One said that the cam should be surface hardened, or it will quickly wear, and the other said that the cam will surface harden during break-in.
So, these are both respected mechanics that have been doing this for 40+ years...who do you believe? Are they both right? CAN they both be right? As I've said in the past, I'm NOT a mechanic, I'm a graphic artist that has a fair amount of mechanical ability to attempt a project like this. I'm not afraid to ask questions (actually, I love to ask questions and learn about things of interest), but it is VERY frustrating to get conflicting advice.
Is anyone else in this boat? What would you do?
Once I got my new TR3 engine back in the car, I had to remove the head to replace the casting plug (freeze plug is actually a misnomer) on the back of the head that was leaking. The engine hadn't been started and I was told that I might be okay using the old gasket (I know it's not the best way to do it, but I did it anyway). I cleaned the gasket with acetone and re-sprayed it with copper sealer and re-torqued in a three step process -- 30, 60, 90. The manual called for 100 to 105, but ARP, via a phone call, said 90. After a couple of hours, I noticed coolant leaking from the head bolt on the intake/exhaust side between #1 and #2.
Since that time, I've have had two conversations with British mechanics that have been building TR3 engines since the mid 50s -- one on the East coast and one on the West coast -- I will not give their names to protect the innocent.
As I've said in the past, I get completely different answers/opinions from everyone I talk to. Here's what they had to say about the issue...
One said to use the copper/asbestos gasket and do a one step torque right to 105 ft. lbs., and don't use the steel-shim gasket because "you'll have more problems than you have right now." The other said to torque the copper gasket in a three step process to 102 ft. lbs., but said that the steel-shim gasket is your best bet, because it will NEVER leak. He also said that this is not uncommon -- not that you WANT it to happen -- but sometimes it does. He also suggested to try Barsleak (not sure of the spelling, but you all know what it is). That should/could stop the leak, then you could drain the coolant and put in new after the leak is stopped.
On a completely different matter, I asked about the "D" grind cam I purchased from TSI. Since this is a regrind and TSI does not harden the cam after it is ground, I asked if that was okay. One said that the cam should be surface hardened, or it will quickly wear, and the other said that the cam will surface harden during break-in.
So, these are both respected mechanics that have been doing this for 40+ years...who do you believe? Are they both right? CAN they both be right? As I've said in the past, I'm NOT a mechanic, I'm a graphic artist that has a fair amount of mechanical ability to attempt a project like this. I'm not afraid to ask questions (actually, I love to ask questions and learn about things of interest), but it is VERY frustrating to get conflicting advice.
Is anyone else in this boat? What would you do?