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TR6 How to change oil filter on a 1975 TR6

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walsh2000

Freshman Member
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Hi,

I am looking for tips on re-installing the oil filter canister on my 1975 TR6. More precisely I am looking for tips on tightening the retaining screw.

I am having great difficulty! I managed to remove the filter from the canister while the canister was still inside the body of the car. The task in general seems awkward given that the canister can not be removed without removing other parts.

I read through the archives and found a reference to taking off the left front tire in order to more easily access the filter canister. However, there is no access hole to make it easier to tighten the screw.

Do other model years have this access hole?

I'm open to any advice as to how I can tighten the screw and/or how best to change the oil filter including the best type of wrench to use or any other advice.

Thanks,

-mike-
 
Somebody please tell Mike how to take the canister off his engine! I changed to the aftermarket spin-off filter some time ago and have forgotten (thank goodness) how to take the darn thing off. Mike, you should do the same.

Bill
 
[ QUOTE ]
Somebody please tell Mike how to take the canister off his engine! I changed to the aftermarket spin-off filter some time ago and have forgotten (thank goodness) how to take the darn thing off. Mike, you should do the same.


[/ QUOTE ]

OMG thats funny Bill, I was just writing the same thing. I took the canister off my car when I bought it and threw it in a box never to see the light of day again. Got the spin on adapter also, run don't walk to your nearest catalog and get one. Makes life immensly easier. I know this doesn't really help you right now though, sorry.
 
I'll third that... went with a spin-on and no more 'Exxon Valdez' oil changes for me. I'm generally prone to originality on my TRs but this was one mod that made the car much more enjoyable.
 
Man, I thought I was doing the right thing by keeping my original canister...guess not. Spin-on, here I come.
 
Thank you all for the quick replies.

I have seen the spin on adapters in the catalogs and I will order one!

I would like to solicite more replies along 2 threads:

1. spin on adapter: the filter area is so tight, that I can hardly imagine how a spin on can fit. Once the adapter is fitted, are the filters installed vertically from underneath the car? What is the diameter of a filter? I'm trying to picture how it can fit. Can anyone point to some on-line photos?

2. my current predicament: I'm still open to any advice as to how to hold in place the original canister and how to tighten the screw.

-mike-
 
As a relatively new TR6 owner, I went through this experience just yesterday when I changed the oil for the first time. I also took the opportunity to install the spin-on adaptor in place of the original filter canister.

I can understand your frustration Mike. My main difficulty was removing the old filter system from the body of the car. I finally accomplished it by maneuvering the filter cartridge out of the canister and dropping it out of the engine bay just in front of the clutch slave. Then, as the canister was hollow at one end, I was able to finally get it out by using the inside space of the canister to manipulate the darn thing so some of the obstructions stuck inside the hollow shell and squeeze it out in front of the clutch cylinder. At one point I considered removing the steering column as it seemed it may be the easiest way.

As for installing the spin-on adaptor, which I suspect is somewhat similar to re-installing the cannister, I first tried from below the car, but finally succeeded from above. I used a closed ended wrench and just kept turning until the threads finally caught, while holding the adaptor in place with the other hand (having small hands helped). The space is too small to get a socket on and the brake lines and fuel filter reduce the space to turn a wrench but I persevered and it finally went on. Had I conintued to be unsuccesful I would have probably removed the fuel line to get more room.

As for the spin-on filter, I have it tilted at about 45 degrees toward the front of the car to avoid the clutch slave and it just fits. I'll see if I can take a photo for you.

Good luck.
Martin
 
I made an adapter disk out of aluminum. It is round and about 1 inch thick. I put two 90degree fittings on the adapter. One for OUT and the other for IN. The out is to a spin-on filter holder I got from JCW. I use the largest spin-on I can find; looks like it hold about a quart. It is mounted to the fender well and connects via very ugly black hydraulic hoses. When time permits, I will plumb it with beautiful braded lines and I will install the all important oil cooler ( my cooler is a Mazda <year, model??> made with a built in temp devise to by-pass the cooler until the oil needs cooling...not long in a TR6). That was 25 years ago, still the cooler has not been installed and the black hoses are as ugly as when installed.

Triumph made an oil cooler as an option but it still used the canister filter (heck, can’t remember; or did it use a spin-on; if is was a spin-on it was sized suitable for a 5 hp go-cart) which is too messy and too hard to change with or without a cooler.

I do not feel comfortable with the after market adapters that allow a lawn mower size spin-on oil filter to be used. If appearance of originality is required, get the oil-cooler package and at least you can add a pint or so more oil to circulate.
 
You dont need to hold the can in place,start the bolt a few threads,finger tighten then align the can.Make sure you dont have doubled gaskets in the way.
 
My spin on adapter also goes 90 down, the filter then installs from under the car in the verticle position. I also had to tilt mine slightly forward so that it would clear the clutch slave. I believe the filter itself is for a GM application, I have the Fram part number at home hanging on my workbench. You should be able to get it at any auto store though.
 
Success!

Thanks everyone again for your support. I learned this evening that it is humanly possible to change the TR6 oil filter with the original canister... something I did not believe possible 1 day ago.

My trick turned out to be to use duct tape and to position myself facing away from the car. I cut a 8 inch strip of duct tape and rolled it length wise creating a sticky strip which I then wound around my socket to provide grip. I then faced away from the car and slid my hand down in the engine compartment so that the palm of my hand faced the canister. That seemed to be about the only way my arm/hand could get in there and get a decent grip on the socket. After several revolutions, I switched to an open wrench taped onto a ruler! Success!

BTW, I have ordered a screw on adapter. I even used a 3 1/8 inch diameter Campbells soup can as a test. (I believe the Fram PH3600 has a 3 inch diameter.) The soup can just barely sliped in from under the car past a break line and up to the current canister. So, I suspect the screw on system will work in my car.

-mike-
 
I recently changed the oil on my '74 TR6 for the first time, it still has the old canister style filter. There was an access hole behind the front left wheel (in the wheel well). I didn't have to remove the wheel. I set the filter in place and then with a socket extention, started tightening the canister bolt. I thought I had tightened it pretty good, added the oil, looked under and everything seemed to be holding pretty good. So, I started the engine, looked under and sure enough, oil was pouring out. I stopped the engine and the canister was loose?? I tightened it back up and added more oil and it hasn't leaked since. I guess you have to double check that the canister is in place to ensure you don't have leaks?? I'm changing to a spin on adapter next time though!!!!!
 
I actually purchased a Craftsman 5/8"? ratchet box wrench when I had my orig TR250 back in the 70's. When I bought my latest TR250 one of the first things I did was trash the cannister & put a Mocal spin on adapter. I use a Lews filter wrench avail at NAPA that has no handle, rather it has a square drive in the end that allows a 3/8" extension bar to run to a ratchet.


Do the Spin on now, you'll be glad you did.

p.s anyone want an orig cannister cheap, I have two!
 
Besides the spin-on oil filter, I went with the remote oil cooler as well. I opted for the braided hoses and the really large oil radiator. I have added a full quart to my capacity! I use the Fram 3600 filter. Cheap and good. A point in mounting the oil cooler radiator (I covered this in an old post) is to mount it well. Just bolting it down to the factory holes in the skid plate spells future disaster. These babies crack and you will lose all your oil. I found an aluminum frame from Earl's on the web, opened the holes a bit with a reamer, and mounted the top bracket with stainless all-thread through down to the bottom bracket and into the skid plate, if this makes any sense. Everything has stainless Nyloc nuts and washers so the little radiator will never vibrate and crack. It even had rubber cushion strips inside the brackets. A lot of hoakum but a better way to rig a relevant accessory.

Bill
 
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