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TR2/3/3A How to build an engine run in stand for 60 TR3

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
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Afternoon:
I asked this question once before but got no response, well one, and maybe I just didn't put the question the right way. So I'm trying again.
I'm rebuilding a post 60000 engine. Once I am finished with it I want to run it in and do all the necessary trouble shooting with the carbs, timing and etc. on a stand rather than doing it while is is in the car. Knowing me I feel certain that I will ding, scratch or do other bad things to the freshly painted engine compartment. I plan on hooking up the radiator and necessary guages and a small gas tank and the exhaust system so I can give it a good run in and shake down.
If any of you have done this I would appreciate hearing about it.

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
I was over at Holman Moody a few weeks ago and they had just finished building an authentic Ford GT-40 engine complete with a stand on dollies with a starter button, guages for temp, oil pressure, tach, etc. They built the whole setup for a high level FOMOCO executive who lives somewhere in detroit. He wanted to keep it in his basement and be able to roll it outside and fire it up to **** off the neighbors. I asked the guys how much the setup cost and they wouldn't say except that it was more than 100 grand.

Dave
 
When I was a student studying Mechanical Engineering, we tested different engines on stands - well they were more like test rigs - and they all had solid bases and a control panel with all the gauges etc. We were checking the torque and horsepower as a function of load, fuel "mileage", thermal efficiency. etc. There was a 3-cyl GM bus diesel, a Ford V8, an old British built Ruston-Hornsby 1-cyl diesel engine for a mine pump and a Rover Gas Turbine. Thermocouples were in the top and bottom of the radiator and on the exhaust. We also took temperature readings of the exhaust gases and sampled this for further analysis. Some also had the volumetric chart where we could calculate the volumetric efficiency. And to top it off, I used to drive my 1958 TR3A to class and park in on the campus at McGill (Dr. Wilson on "HOUSE" wears one of our McGill sweat-shirts) in downtown Montreal. Those were the good old days.
 
Can't you just mount the engine and tranny in the frame BEFORE the body goes on?? You can put the radiator in place also. You can then just mount the oil and temp and tach gauges in some sort of plywood "dashboard". Heck, even the fuel tank could be strapped to the frame in the rear, and feed through the original piping.

Just some thoughts... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
 
Art, as I think about it that might be just the way to go. Probably the way they assembled them anyway. Besides it might be fun tooting around the neighborhood in it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

Tinkerman
 
Hi Tink,
A buddy did just what you want to do. While rebuilding his TR4A to concours condition, he welded a sturdy frame together, with lockable wheels to roll it around, radiator in proper position, small gas tank, etc. Mounted the engine in place with stock rubber mounts and exhausted the tail pipe with a long piece of flex exhaust (with muffler) so he could aim it out into the atmosphere. Didn't spend a bunch of money, but he is good with a torch and that says a lot. I'll bet he didn't have 100 bucks in the thing. Worked very well. He kept the engine on it for almost a year while he did the rest of the car.
 
I'd go for the "Keep it simple" principle. If all you want to avoid is scratching the painted finish of the inner fenders etc, that seems the best idea to test the engine with the body still off the car. My experience is that the TRactor engines are very sturdy and if you build it with all the instruction manuals plus the help of several hundred TR owners on this forum, it will work first shot anyway. But it's a great experience and its a chance for you to do what you want to do. Please take photos of it from all angles so we can all enjoy your success. I have the parts for a spare engine in my basement which I will want to run some day and I don't really want to pull my own engine just to test the new one.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A

https://www.triumphest2006.com/images/clubcars/30donelliott'str3.jpg
Photo taken at VTR, Colorado, 2001
 
[ QUOTE ]
... Besides it might be fun tooting around the neighborhood in it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

Tinkerman

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, You could handle propping up the steering column, and strap a milk crate on the frame for a seat, but...you'll need hydraulics for the clutch and ... EEK...the BRAKES!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

Of course, you could always start it in gear, and use the hand brake... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

Edit: BTW, I just helped a buddy of mine get his TR3B going after a total resto. He put the whole drive train on the frame, and then lowered on the body shell, less all of the exterior panels. He put in the dash so he could mount the gauges, the wiring harness, fuel tank, hooked up the exhaust and put in the hydraulics. He had the carbs redone by Apple Hydraulics. When I went over there to help him start it, all that was left to do was install the dizzy, get it staticlly timed and put some fuel in. We cranked it over without the plugs to get the oil pressure up, put the plugs back in after timing it, and then rolled it out onto the driveway. He kept asking me if we should do something with the carbs. I told him that Apple probably got them close enough to start, and then we'll worry about it. Prime the float bowls with the priming pump, ignition on, choke pulled, CRANK it over. Less then two seconds later, it was running...and **** good. We'll mess with the carbs after he gets the rest of the car together, but I doubt they will need much adjustment.
 
An important issue is how do you intend to "load" the engine. Just running it at no-load, doesn't really accomplish anything. The challenge here is to simulate the range of loads that are expected. Maybe you can borrow a 75 kW generator. That ought to be approx. the correct size for a 100 bhp Triumph engine. Provide some electrical power for you and the neighbors and sell the balance back to your local utility.
Good luck
 
I agree with Frank but if the engine is built as per the manual with new parts correctly, the compression can be checked and then power will be there and all Tinkerman wants to do is see that it runs.
 
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