• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

How to: Brighter gauge face with LED’s.

Disclaimer is not necessary! Can you imagine what this board was like if everyone put up a disclaimer?

GregW said:
I don't know how you could have known whether it would work on a different car Roger. Can't say I've seen a wiring diagram for a Sprite myself.

here's a wiring diagram for my Sprite. I'm ok with the regular bulb in the ignition light. If it still looks like a regulator issue after looking at the diagram let me know and maybe someday I'll clean up the connections or do an alternator conversion.
 
Hi Sean,
It looks like the ignition light circuit is the same as the big Healeys. One thought I had was to make sure the white wire from the battery was going to the + side of the LED. That wire is constant +12v whereas the brown/yellow changes.
 
Hi Greg, In these cars the Dynamo and the control box are different than the Big Hly cars. Im thinking the circuit resistances may not the same. But you have made a good point here, Keoke
 
Anyone have a source for the higher wattage E10 base bulb (old school incandescent)? I think I'll stick with those and mount another one in speedo and tach.
 
jvandyke said:
Anyone have a source for the higher wattage E10 base bulb (old school incandescent)? I think I'll stick with those and mount another one in speedo and tach.

I'd recommend mounting another 2.2 watt in the bottom (same place as the photo on the first page of this thread) and having another 2.2 in the top (as per original). Two bulbs per speedo and tach.

You'll find that is just the right amount of light for the incandescents.
If you put in a higher watt bulb, it will get too hot. You'll feel the glass face heat up. Ask me how I know.

Cheers,
Roger
 
Okay, I'll go that route. Last night I bench tested the two 2.2 watt (normal) bulbs and it looked pretty darn good (like the picture on page one). I'll stick with that for now. Thanks!
 
Hey Roger,
Just got the led bulbs in and mounted one in my 100M's tach and makes a big difference ! Fortunately it was converted to negative ground years ago so just a plug and play type deal.Haven't put the others in but guess I can now put away the small flashlight I carried to make sure I could see the oil/water gauge at night with its standard light that did not do much to light the dial !
Regards,
Mike
 
I got some incandescent E10s on E bay, 3 watt, which is what about 30% more wattage than 2.2 they were something like $5 for 10 including shipping from Korea or Hong Kong or somewhere in the eastern rim. They are not a huge improvement but slightly brighter.

Greg
 
bighealeysource said:
Hey Roger,
Just got the led bulbs in and mounted one in my 100M's tach and makes a big difference ! Fortunately it was converted to negative ground years ago so just a plug and play type deal.Haven't put the others in but guess I can now put away the small flashlight I carried to make sure I could see the oil/water gauge at night with its standard light that did not do much to light the dial !
Regards,
Mike

Hi Mike,
I'm glad that one of my posts have helped others in some way.
Thank you for taking the time to let me know.
Cheers,
Roger

PS. What's nice is being able to see the directional blinker in the daytime!
 
glemon said:
I got some incandescent E10s on E bay, 3 watt, which is what about 30% more wattage than 2.2 they were something like $5 for 10 including shipping from Korea or Hon Kong or somewhere in the eastern rim. They are not a huge improvement but slightly brighter.
Greg

Hi Greg,
I tried 5 watts and found them to get too hot.
The 4 watt seems to be the best incandescent to go with. It is much brighter than the 2.2 and it did not get as hot as the 5 watt. However, I could not find a 4 watt in a E10 screw design. It's available in a bayonet style. I simply replaced the bulb holder with that. It press's in just like the E10 bulb holder does. The 4 watt works great in the gas and water/oil gauge, being those gauges can not accept two bulbs like the larger speedo and tach. Having two 2.2 watt bulbs in the larger gauges and one 4 watt in the smaller gauge, keeps the illumination uniform with all gauges.

Cheers,
Roger
 

Attachments

  • 26984.jpg
    26984.jpg
    87.9 KB · Views: 348
  • 26986.jpg
    26986.jpg
    103.8 KB · Views: 345
would like to note, i had read some reviews about autolumination, and they were not too good. i ordered the bulbs, but am already not satisfied with their shipping. will let you know what they ship, quality, service ect,
 
mudd said:
would like to note, i had read some reviews about autolumination, and they were not too good. i ordered the bulbs, but am already not satisfied with their shipping. will let you know what they ship, quality, service ect,

This is helpful for all of us. Please let us know.
If there are other vendors that sell this type of high watt LED, it would be good to know. I had no problems with autolumination, for the record.

A list of places to buy and their item number would ge a great reference for those who read this post in the furture.

Cheers,
Roger
 
got the lights, all worked, their shipping and order system is terrible though. one problem, new wiring system in my car has both screw in type and bayonet type, didnt see it and ordered all screw in type, double check before ordering.
 
Re: How to illuminate your guages with LED’s.

In the light of Rogers investigations into creating a better glow in the old instrumentation I have been researching and experimenting with my speedo unit.


First of all I have discovered sources for plastic bulb holders that will fit the ports in the back of the speedo – Moss UK ( They are on the web) have holders for both screw bulbs and BA9s, they are in plastic and have two tails, therefore they can be fitted to + and – earthed cars giving you the option of using LED bulbs which tend to be - earth, it will just be a matter of connecting the wiring correctly to compensate. I have also discovered a source for a 501 bulb holder that will also fit the speedo again in plastic with two tails so it will fit any earth . I have got mine from Vehicle Wiring Products in Derbyshire UK. ( they are on the web) The 501 is a wedge type bulb that can be purchased in LED format, and it is just a matter of turning the bulb around in the holder to gain the correct polarity.

I am sure that all the above would be available in the USA but I must say that I have not explored that.

I tested the set up with just the new bulb in without the glass on the front and then with the glass installed – there was a marked difference, it looked great without the glass but then with the glass installed it was poor.

I then inserted a piece of white card around the inside of the body of the speedo to mimic a painted surface , tested it without the glass then put the glass back the results were better.

It has to be said that there is not much difference when the glass is off, between the painted and unpainted can but there is when the glass is installed. Rogers idea of creating an extra hole for an additional bulb will vastly increase the illumination but I did not want to go too far with my modification.

Unpainted can plus new bulb
https://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k12/Bouncinbob_2006/DSCN3304A.jpg

'painted' can plus new bulb
https://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k12/Bouncinbob_2006/DSCN3306A.jpg

Unpainted can with glass installed
https://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k12/Bouncinbob_2006/DSCN3308A.jpg
'Painted' can with glass installed
https://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k12/Bouncinbob_2006/DSCN3307A.jpg
501 LED bulbs plus holder
https://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k12/Bouncinbob_2006/DSCN3294A.jpg
 
Re: How to illuminate your guages with LED’s.

I thought I'd revisit this topic to show how much of an improvement adding another bulb to the bottom of the tach and speedo does. I didn't post photos back when I wrote this, so here they are. (Refer to the first page of this post to find out how to add the second bulb.)

First set will show the 2.2 watt incandescents.
1. One bulb in the top original postition.
2. Second bulb added to the bottom.

Second set will show the 1 watt superbright led's
1. One led in the top original postition.
2. Second led added to the bottom.

Comparison of the incandescent vs led.
The bulbs.

Notice how the light is distributed much better with two bulbs.

Cheers,
Roger
 

Attachments

  • 27058.jpg
    27058.jpg
    32.5 KB · Views: 206
  • 27059.jpg
    27059.jpg
    37.8 KB · Views: 202
  • 27067.jpg
    27067.jpg
    29.7 KB · Views: 189
  • 27068.jpg
    27068.jpg
    34.1 KB · Views: 193
  • 27069.jpg
    27069.jpg
    35.3 KB · Views: 198
  • 27070.jpg
    27070.jpg
    37.8 KB · Views: 191
Re: How to illuminate your guages with LED’s.

The led is a lot brighter, if that's what you're looking for. Here's the comparison.

If you like the led look, then add 1 watt superbright led to the fuel, oil/water. It will mirror the two led's in the speedo and tach.

If you perfer the stock incandescent look, then replace the 2.2 watt in the fuel and the water/oil with one 4 watt incandescent bulb. They will then mirror the two 2.2 watts in the speedo and tach.

Cheers,
Roger
 

Attachments

  • 27064.jpg
    27064.jpg
    28.3 KB · Views: 211
  • 27065.jpg
    27065.jpg
    33.3 KB · Views: 191
Re: How to illuminate your guages with LED’s.

How was the 2nd bulb added/
 
Re: How to illuminate your guages with LED’s.

Hi Guys

Well I have put Aluminium foil in the can, painted the stepped ring white and assembled it all to see what the overall result would be, not as good as Roger's two bulb upgrade but it is good enough for me. The photo does not do the final result justice, it is a million miles better than the original set up.

https://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k12/Bouncinbob_2006/DSCN3311A.jpg

I have been in touch with the people who deal with Smiths Instruments in South wales and they are not interested in selling me the spares but are willing to refurb the speedo - bugger, may have to go that route.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Back
Top