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How often do you check your SU fuel pumps ?

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Brit_Brother

Brit_Brother

Freshman Member
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I had to replace the old fuel pump less than 1.000 miles ago. so I purchased from Moss a brand new SU (By Burlen) pump.

Everything was fine until today: the engine was dying every 5 minutes or so, a good hit on the pump , and it restarted each time.
Is this typically the problem of points that I should clean ?
Could it be the filter inside the pump?

How often do you check the Fuel Pump ?
Would a transistorised system cure the issue ?

I am under the impression that SU fuel pumps are not reliable since I had exactly the same problem on my previous car. Any suggestion ?
 
I ended my frustrations with the SU model by installing an Master "M" fuel pump, Model E8016S (Airtex Products) in my BN7. I purchased it from AutoZone for about 40 bucks, cheap enough to carry a spare. I was able to install it without altering the existing fuel lines by using appropriate fittings.

Ed
 
I carry the same Master E8016S in the boot as a spare along with the appropriate fittings and flex hose to hook it up, knowing full well that the SU pump will die on some remote road at least 50 miles from the nearest city.
 
Thank-you for your confirmation that we all share the same problem of reliability.
Well, that SU pump worked fine (again) this afternoon ... What could it be ? I will check the tank ( may be some debris inside blocked the pump but it- should click which it does not).
Airtex is not known over here, I think I will go for a brand new Bosch pump. Does anyone know the adequate Bosch part number ?

JM
 
Hi Mate, no we do not all share the same lack of reliability in the SU fuel pump. I do know that Burlen has rendered the new point type SU fuel pump non polarity sensitive. "If" they removed the arc suppression components to accomplish this then there is your problem. However, If that pump is found to be defective I would contact the vendor. On the other hand, if you want greater reliability then purchase a new electronic SU pump. Even with points the SU fuel pump has earned a very good reliability reputation. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif---Keoke.
 
Hello Keoke, at least we share the same problem of unpredictability of SU pumps, and this is why we like it !

But I'll follow Shorn's suggestion of a permanent replacement kit in the boot.

I suspect I may have some "things" in suspension in the fuel in the (1959 original) fuel tank. If the pump input is blocked, will it stop clicking or not ?
Any idea on how could I check this without dismantling and flushing it ?

And ... I grab a beer too.
JM
 
Yes Matey, if you block the input or the output of the pump, it will quit ticking. No if the tank is silted up it will have to be removed and cleaned. Similarly, if the internal filters in the SU pump are contaminated it will require taking it to bits and cleaning it out also. A filter between the tank and the pump's inlet may help but only until it gets silted up too. You might give a look inside the fuel bowl of the carbies and see if there is silt in the bottom of the bowls.---Keoke

P.S. If you just want to look inside the tank with a torch. You can remove the sender unit in the top of the tank and check inside.
 
Keoke said:
I do know that Burlen has rendered the new point type SU fuel pump non polarity sensitive. "If" they removed the arc suppression components to accomplish this then there is your problem. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif---Keoke.
Click to expand...
I doubt that Burlen "removed" the arc suppression. There are any number of non-polarity sensitive arc suppression devices available which could be substituted. The MOV (metal oxide varistor), or avalanche diode, or back to back Zener diodes are all easy possibilities.

They "could" have even gone back to the original non-polarized capacitor which was pretty good.

As to reliability, I'm still using an early version of the polarity sensitive "diode/resistor" design, not a stutter in 10 years of use.

There WAS a problem of the pump contact throw over not being adjusted correctly even on some new pumps. This reportedly resulted in failure to operate if the diaphragm lost some elasticity.
D
 
Brit_Brother -

SU pumps are very sensitive to rust and crud in your tank, so if there's lots of rust in there, it will clog up your SU fuel pump.

Try getting a FACET replacement pump (I am sure you can get this at auto parts places in France)... There are two types which will work with your car:

FACET 40104 (small, perfect pump pressure for Healeys... it's a little noisier than the SU, but mostly quiet when the tank is full of gas)

https://www.facet-purolator.com/solidstate.asp

FACET 476087E (cylindrical pump, slightly more pressure than original SU, but if your float jets are good, this is no problem - this pump is the old BENDIX pump and is very quiet).

https://www.facet-purolator.com/goldflo.asp

Both of these pumps will work even if there is crud in your fuel line... and should not be all that expensive (probably between 50 and 100 euro).
 
Hi JM. I've found the SU pump I also purchased from Moss to be very reliable. I did have a problem with the grounding of the pump to the body. The bolts holding it to the mounting came loose resulting in an intermittent operation. I just retightened the bolts and went on my way.

When you think about it which is better, to have the pump continue running when it becomes dislodged from it's mounting ( which is easy to do by adding a ground wire from the pump to the chassis), or to have the pump stop working when it becomes dislodged? In my case I've mounted a fuel filter from the tank to the pump using rubber tubing which insulates the pump.

To check the pump just disconnect the main fuel line from the carbs and place the hose in a clean and clear quart size glass jar. Then turn on the ignition and view the flow of fuel into the jar. Check the fuel in the jar for sediment, it should fill quite easily not slowly.
 
Thanks Johnny,
It's a good track : as the pump was restarting each time i was hitting it's mounting it must be that kind of little problem such as grounding / crud / or points.

I will check the leads again. If I Remember well I think I used both the + and the - lead when I replaced it. I have got a non polarity SU burlen new type (and do hope keoke is wrong about arc suppression). My car is negative ground.

Hopefully Ive got a BN6 so It will be easy to check just opening the battery cover.
 
Well Matey, come to think of it unintentionally but fairly certain that it occurs the metal fuel line on the output side of the pump will probably keep the pump at earth potential, but the dedicated one [black wire] is provided to insure it is securely earthed. However, if you introduce rubber lines between the tank and the pump you can compromise the earth circuit for the fuel tank and the fuel gauge. Don't know what those Burlen buggers did but we will give them the benefit of the doubt as they seem like a good lot. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif---Keoke
 
I ran into a problem with new points that caused the pump to stop operating. Two parts contacted during the "throw over" action and occasionally caught. Was a simple matter to observe the throw over action and spot/correct the interference. Haven't had a problem with the pump for over five years now. Of course, now that I said that...
 
Yes Stretch, if the throwover point, armature travel, is not set correct it will stop the pump for sure even though it initially worked.---Keoke
 
At the risk of "putting the mockers" on my reliable SU pump,
I fitted a new unit about 5 years ago, and have had a trouble free run with it. The trip to the Barossa Valley last year (over 3,000 miles) for our Austin-Healey National Rally was trouble free.
I am now going to start my 100 with my fingers crossed!
 
Today I checked all fuel lines for sediment or any cause.
Everything was fine I took of the pump.
The filter was clean , absolutely nothing.
Opened the lid to check the points.
I noted one of the electric points was dark dusty .
Went to the shop and purchased a SU set of points.
Changed and refitted everything.
Pump was clicking OK
So here I go for a test drive ...
It lasted ... 5minutes !
Again the SU stopped.
I am tired of SU and I would like to purchase that airtex E8016S ( Facet pumps have too much pressure I dont want to add a regulator ).
Does anyone know where I could find a good mail order site for getting that airtex E8016S ?
 
Mate, WOT! a Bloody Shame, Blimey Pump, enough to Gut even me. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif However, would you look inside the cap and see if an arc suppresion device was fitted. One type is a little fat black component with red & Black leads[Diode/Resitor] another type is just a standard capacitor across the points. Let us know how you get on. Course now you could get an Electronic SU and the problem be solved, "No Points".--Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
Hello Keoke,
Well I had a look inside to check whether there was a diod on anything and and I just could not find any electronic component.
This pump part number is AZX 1307 Single ended points type pump. Dual Polarity. Supercedes AZX 1318. High pressure 12 Volt with minimum flow of 15 gallons per hour.
( https://www.burlen.co.uk/suPumpDetail.aspx?id=81 )

If the problem is not the points (which I changed) then it would probably be the same with the electronic SU ...

The electronic SU are very expensive , i think i'd better go for the airtex (btw I saw that MGA guru has also prefered this little thing to the original SU)

I will send the SU (still under warranty) to Burlen and keep it for spare when they return it repaired.
 
Brit_Brother said:
Went to the shop and purchased a SU set of points.
Changed and refitted everything.
Pump was clicking OK
So here I go for a test drive ...
It lasted ... 5minutes !
Again the SU stopped.
Click to expand...
When you replaced the points, did you adjust the diaphram/points toggle "exactly" as in the shop manual. Eg, back up the diaphram four holes (2/3 turn) from the contact "throwover" point to assure free armature travel AND holding the diaphram in the flexed position before tightening the body screws to assure that the diaphram will free travel far enough to reliably operate the contacts?

It sounds like these two adjustments were not done correctly.
D
 
No Matey, The problem is not with the points and an electronic will not exhibit this same type of failure, If there are no arc suppression components on the pump that is the Problem.---Keoke-- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif
 
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