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Re: How much would it cost/Did I make a good purch
the u-joints (universal) are at each end of your driveshaft. Part #1, #2, #6 and their respective mates.
https://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29298
No grease nipples on my '76 - and I think unlikely on your '74 (those bugeyes just plain aren't reliable like those later ones :wink: )
the u-joints (universal) are at each end of your driveshaft. Part #1, #2, #6 and their respective mates.
https://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29298
No grease nipples on my '76 - and I think unlikely on your '74 (those bugeyes just plain aren't reliable like those later ones :wink: )
bugimike
Yoda
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Re: How much would it cost/Did I make a good purch
Not so much unreliable, but certainly more serviceable!!! The later cars were built with planned obsolescence! If I had U-joints without grease nipples, I would replace them with ones that do! With regular servicing (and temperate driving!) they could last the life of the car!
JPSmit said:
Not so much unreliable, but certainly more serviceable!!! The later cars were built with planned obsolescence! If I had U-joints without grease nipples, I would replace them with ones that do! With regular servicing (and temperate driving!) they could last the life of the car!
Ed Kaler
Jedi Warrior
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Re: How much would it cost/Did I make a good purch
Gents:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]the u-joints (universal) are at each end of your driveshaft. Part #1, #2, #6 and their respective mates.[/QUOTE]
whilst that link is correct (which JP provided) [#1 being the zerk(s)]
do NOT forget #128 on this link:
https://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32813
which is NOT numbered on the Spridget diagram (and is just plain missing a LOT of times :madder: ).
It is also NOT UN-common to find that you canNOT get your grease gun fitting on the zerk due to the u-joint being installed incorrectly!! :madder: !!
See "The "infamous" LBC U-Joint" :hammer: in <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Various Articles</span></span> on my site!! ( happens a LOT
)
Ed
Gents:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]the u-joints (universal) are at each end of your driveshaft. Part #1, #2, #6 and their respective mates.[/QUOTE]
whilst that link is correct (which JP provided) [#1 being the zerk(s)]
do NOT forget #128 on this link:
https://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32813
which is NOT numbered on the Spridget diagram (and is just plain missing a LOT of times :madder: ).
It is also NOT UN-common to find that you canNOT get your grease gun fitting on the zerk due to the u-joint being installed incorrectly!! :madder: !!
See "The "infamous" LBC U-Joint" :hammer: in <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Various Articles</span></span> on my site!! ( happens a LOT
) Ed
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Re: How much would it cost/Did I make a good purch
I will echo and emphasize, a little rust in the floors, not necessarily end of the world, do check the rest of the car thoroughly, most common serious rust point on these cars is on the rear spring mounts, so check these, expensive fix to do right, and not safe to drive if they are about to come off and the springs are also the rear axle locators.
Check the rocker panels as well, you might try a week magnet as well, which can tell you where thick bondo or bondo with no metal underneath lurks.
Give ot the good once over and if it seems safe, tune it up, drive and enjoy.
Clutch sounds like bad hydraulics to me, may be able to get by with a master and or slave cylinder rebuild kits, which are pretty cheap, inspect all the brake hoses as well, should be three, one to each front wheel and one to the rear exle, replace if they look old, swelled or cracked.
Have fun, neat looking car, bugeyes look good with a stripe or two!
I will echo and emphasize, a little rust in the floors, not necessarily end of the world, do check the rest of the car thoroughly, most common serious rust point on these cars is on the rear spring mounts, so check these, expensive fix to do right, and not safe to drive if they are about to come off and the springs are also the rear axle locators.
Check the rocker panels as well, you might try a week magnet as well, which can tell you where thick bondo or bondo with no metal underneath lurks.
Give ot the good once over and if it seems safe, tune it up, drive and enjoy.
Clutch sounds like bad hydraulics to me, may be able to get by with a master and or slave cylinder rebuild kits, which are pretty cheap, inspect all the brake hoses as well, should be three, one to each front wheel and one to the rear exle, replace if they look old, swelled or cracked.
Have fun, neat looking car, bugeyes look good with a stripe or two!
Ed Kaler
Jedi Warrior
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Re: How much would it cost/Did I make a good purch
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]replace if they look old, swelled or cracked.[/QUOTE]
Greg & more importantly Mike, that is never a "yard stick" for me as I have seen what appears to be perfectly fine 'looking' hoses that where bad.
One easy check is (with help of an assistant) is to actually hold a hose whilst pedal is pushed.
You can actually 'feel' a hose 'pump up' which is NOT what one wants!!!
Ed
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]replace if they look old, swelled or cracked.[/QUOTE]
Greg & more importantly Mike, that is never a "yard stick" for me as I have seen what appears to be perfectly fine 'looking' hoses that where bad.
One easy check is (with help of an assistant) is to actually hold a hose whilst pedal is pushed.
You can actually 'feel' a hose 'pump up' which is NOT what one wants!!!
Ed
