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Wedge How much TR7 for the money?

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100DashSix

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For fun, I'm going to take a look at a TR7 that's for sale in my town--would be the first one I've seen, and I don't have any Triumph experience (that's what I said on here before the MG in my signature). It's a late DHC and the seller is asking 2500.

That price should be able to provide a very drivable car with absolutely no rust, is that right? What level of decay or mechanical trouble should cause me to walk away?
 
The wedges are still waiting to be discovered. That's the good news for the buyer, as they are WAY undervalued! $2500 ought to buy a pretty substantial car.

Areas to check for rust are the front shock towers, the firewall where the front frame rails meet, especially under the brake and clutch master cylinders. Also, pull the carpet up from the floor behind the seats - big area of concern, as that's where the rear suspension mounts are. And don't forget to check the integrity of the weld seams where the top of the rear fenders meet the body. You'll see the seam - do the magnet check there.

Mechanically - not much different from any other car. You said "later", so it's probably a five-speed. Watch from slop in shifting, though if it's there, it's an easy fix with delrin bushings.

For your reading pleasure, here's a pretty good buyer's guide:

https://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/tr7info/buyguide.asp

Let us know what you find.
 
Thanks for the tips. I actually saw that guide and found it useful, as well as a word document they have on the same site. The seller did say there was rust (bubbling, I suppose) under the paint where the "front fenders meet the panel below the hood." I'm more concerned about rust on the structural parts, and I'll look at the places you mentioned.

He also mentioned new tires, new master brake cylinder and brakes, and rebuilt carbs. At this point I fear only rust... Perhaps I need to buy a welder and a rusty car (hmm..a tr7 to turn into a tr7v8)?
 
100DashSix said:
Perhaps I need to buy a welder and a rusty car (hmm..a tr7 to turn into a tr7v8)?
Click to expand...

NOW yer talkin'!

Actually, you can still find a 7 in good shape, but mechanically pooped, and drop the Rover in there. Very easy swap.
 
I have a rust free California Blue plate TR7 FHC in outstanding body shape that would be perfect for a Rover V8 conversion if anyone is really interested.

Nearly free...
 
Mickey's right, wedges are way undervalued and that's why I would look to do some haggling on price. Do some checking on ebay for completed TR7 sales and it becomes apparent that $2500 should buy a VERY good 7. Good luck and keep us posted.

Tom
 
Ah, nice to know they're cheap! I've been using a link someone here on the forum posted, and it's a great resource: https://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/ms.cgi?veh=triumph%20tr8

It automatically searches a number of sources for all sorts of cars.

Say that I find rust bubbles under the paint but no rust on the structural parts of the car. How much lower than $2500 would it be reasonable to go? I don't care much about appearances, if it's minor blemishes.
 
Cosmetic rust isn't too bad as long as it's not too extensive and not too visible. If it's through the skin, you can be assured it's also in places you can't readily see. I'd be most concerned about the mechanicals, especially signs of an overheated engine, for which these cars are notorious. Electrical gremlins, you can't hardly avoid them in a Lucas equipped car, but lights and basic functions should be at least, well, functional.

How much under $2500? Hard to say without seeing it. It becomes a matter of who's more motivated to buy/sell, you or the seller. As a bit of a benchmark, I gave away a 1981 TR7 DHC Anniversary Edition with a blown engine, solid structurally but with some rust and completely trashed top and interior. It had 32,000 miles and I thought it was a prime candidate for a restore, but the market wasn't there for it so it went for free. It all comes down to what's it worth to you.

Tom
 
What are some symptoms of an engine that overheated, the usual engine checks? (Oil pressure, oil in the coolant/coolant in the oil, frothy mix on the dipstick, sweet steam out the tailpipe, stains seeping from the cylinder head.)

I've heard some stories about headlights being exceptionally tricky. I suppose that's the price you pay for having headlights that look so cool.

I'll follow up with my findings in two days or so...
 
Watch for combustion gases in the coolant. Might be worth taking it to a radiator shop & paying them to test for that, as otherwise it may not show up just idling.
 
If you've never driven a 7 or 8, you are going to be very surprised. They do not ride like an LBC. They are exceptionally comfortable or should be if in decent shape.
 
SCguy said:
There's a TR8 in Reno with pretty low miles for $4500. Someone <u>please</u> buy it! It has been tormenting me for a couple of weeks now.

Like I need another car...
Click to expand...

It looks like a pretty good deal.
1980 TR8
 
I paid $3500 for my '81 DHC with less than 20k miles 4 years ago. I paid $2500 for my '76 FHC 3 years ago for one that was relatively unmolested with little rust.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]If you've never driven a 7 or 8, you are going to be very surprised. They do not ride like an LBC. They are exceptionally comfortable or should be if in decent shape.[/QUOTE]

How does a TR7 compare to an MGB in terms of handling and power? The speed of the MG never bothered me, as it goes plenty fast (faster than it should) around windy roads. I find sitting in the MG is pretty comfortable, so the TR7 would have to be comfortable indeed to surpass that.. Is it a decent drive on a highway for two hours?

And I imagine that 5th gear is nice.
 
We have a B and the TR8. While the B is comfortable, the 8 is more so. Much roomier - just more car. Quieter, too. Handling is very different. The B handles well, but the 8's steering is much quicker. Definitely more secure feel to it all around. I drove it down the Natchez Trace to Florence, Alabama for a car show last week - little over three hours - no fatigue at all.

Our B has overdrive, so that's pretty much a wash. But it would be different without it.
 
Phew, I have some high hopes for the driving experience of a Triumph now. I love the MG, always makes me grin to drive it, even if it's just cruising along.
 
M.U.S.T R..E..S..I..S...T . . .
 
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