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TR4/4A How do you go about reinstalling cylinder head?

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T

tdskip

Yoda
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So ARP bolts here, believe I have the correct length ones in the correct block openings. Assembly lube on the studs, head gasket in place, and studs hand tight. Now just lower the block on the studs and torque to spec in correct order? Any other tips to pass along? Can you tell I an dreading having to do this again and am taking baby steps on the work?
 
Do you have the hardened washers, Grade 8 or better, soft washers will not give you the torque correct. Torque in three or four stages.

Wayne
 
And when you are all done, retorque at about 500 miles. You'll be surprised how much it may need to get back to spec.
 
tdskip said:
Hi Wayne - I have the ARP fasteners but thanks for the tip!
Click to expand...
Follow ARPs instructions and you'll be fine. I like to chamfer the stud holes and make sure everything's flat, clean out the holes really well, install the studs like you said making sure they are all the same height, slip on the gasket followed by the head and torque to ARP specs. Retorque after a few heat cycles and check your valves after...I do it again at 500 miles.
Report back on your success.
Rut
 
I assume the liner protrusion is good it's the most critical thing.
 
I was uncomfortable just hand tightening the ARP studs because the threaded holes were so "old" and gritty. So I got a gun rod cleaner with a little wire brush attachment and wound it down in the holes. Then I wrapped a little towel material soaked in oil onto a wood dowel to clean out what I'd done. Then I hand tightened the studs. I wanted to be sure that "hand tight" didn't mean I just got caught up on some old grit or rust. I don't believe I used any gasket sealant, and I use only the sandwich type head gasket--and a good quality torque wrench. Do check sleeve protrusion for about .005.
 
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