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TR6 How do I use this? TR6 spring compressor help

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ichthos

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I will be replacing the front springs as I continue my front end restoration. I ordered one of the spring compressors from TRF. I figured they would send me directions with this, but they did not. Maybe they figured it was so simple no one needs directions. In any case, I do not know how this thing works. It has a plate with four holes (one in each corner)and one in the center. It also has a a nut and two washers on either side of the plate. There is also a nut on the other end. I might experiment with the compressor except for the fact I do not like the idea of the spring possibly flying out and hitting me in the face. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Kevin
 
Can't be of any help, but I can identify with your situation. Don't ya just hate it when they make us feel like dummies. What would it take for them to send a single picture of the thing in use. It wouldn't bankrupt 'em. Somebody will jump in here with some real info soon. Good Luck
 
Instructions should be in your workshop manual, which you should definitely have access to before starting the job.

But basically you have to support the suspension (I use a 2x4 & jack under the outer part of the spring pan) while you remove the shock absorber. Then the plate goes under the spring pan and the threaded rod goes through the plate, through the hole in the spring pan, and through the hole in the top of the tower (where the upper part of the shock was before). One end gets a single nut & flat washer, the other end gets two nuts (locked together) and a flat washer.

It's your choice which end gets the double nut, I like to have it on the bottom so I can use a box end to hold the single nut on top, and an impact wrench on the double nut (to turn the threaded rod into the single nut). But I think most people do it the other way. Likewise you can either hold the single nut and turn the double nuts (as I do); or the other way 'round.
 
ichthos said:
So, what is the purpose of the four holes in the plate?
Click to expand...
I haven't seen the one from TRF; nor done the job on a TR6. But with mine, the 4 holes fit over the 4 studs in the spring pan where the lower shock mount usually goes.
 
Dale, you're back! I really appreciated your article on the rear suspension (which turned out great), but now I am on to the front suspension. I sent you a pm last week. I have parts two and three of the front suspension articles
you wrote, but is there a part 1? I am at work, so I do not have parts 2 and three in front of me. In part two you were referencing an earlier article you wrote. Could you send me this article if you still have it?

Thanks Randall. I don't have my car to look at at the moment, but your explanation makes sense. I'll check it out tonight.

Kevin
 
Hi Kevin - using the spring compressor isn't hard, but I would strongly suggest you look at directions/write ups first. Dale's write up is a good one, and there are some other materials out there as well (will search for you in a couple of minutes).

Doing a test fitting and seeing how when you start turning the top nut will start compressing the spring is a good idea.

Let us know how it goes!
 
Dale said:
Can't be of any help, but I can identify with your situation. Don't ya just hate it when they make us feel like dummies. What would it take for them to send a single picture of the thing in use. It wouldn't bankrupt 'em. Somebody will jump in here with some real info soon. Good Luck
Click to expand...

I just did this job and have done it in the past. I use a length of all thread and various washers and plates I have around the shop it just my way. If I am not going to reuse the springs I take my angle grinder and cut one of the coils to take the tension off before I unbolt anything, saves a lot of time. The other thing I do is<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #FF0000"> take a chain and run through the spring and around the frame.</span></span> The chain insures that no mater what that spring is not coming after you. The chain can be around a couple of coils and watch our for your fingers.

Putting the springs in may not be as straight forward as the article may lead you to believe. I had to put a plate mid way up the spring and practically compress it to get the spring, gasket, and spacer in the bottom tray. I also use a bottle jack to bring up the bottom plate and tighten the nut on the compressor as I compress the spring from the bottom. It is way to much work to turn that nut on the top of the spring compressor to compress the spring, the spring compressor and the chain are in my case the all thread are really used as a safety device not to compress the spring. If you are doing this just on a frame and not a complete car it may be to lite to compress with the jack and the frame may lift.
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I don't know if I need to start with a separate thread. I understand how to intall and tighten the spring compressor now(thanks for the tip about the jack, Safari) but I don't understand what to do once the spring is tightened. Do I just remove the bolts that go from the lower wishbone into the spring pan, remove the lower fulcrum and spring pan, pull this out, and then loosen up the compressor? I would normally try different things, but I am nervous about the spring flying back at me.

Kevin
 
After all bolts and nuts holding the pan to the lower A arms have been removed (don't miss the 2 hiding at the inner pivot points, unscrew the nut on the top of the spring compressor which should still be holding the pan to the spring. Be sure that the pan is coming off of the arms evenly and not binding. As the spring expands, it will drive the pan off and when the spring is fully extended, remove the top nut and don't let the pan and spring fall on your toe.
 
ichthos said:
I don't know if I need to start with a separate thread. I understand how to intall and tighten the spring compressor now(thanks for the tip about the jack, Safari) but I don't understand what to do once the spring is tightened. Do I just remove the bolts that go from the lower wishbone into the spring pan, remove the lower fulcrum and spring pan, pull this out, and then loosen up the compressor? I would normally try different things, but I am nervous about the spring flying back at me.

Kevin
Click to expand...

I do it little differently. I remove the 2 bolts which hold the ball joint to the top A arms, which lets me just turn the entire wheel assembly to floor. Then I take the tension off of the jack, and spring compressor letting pan go down <span style="color: #FF0000">remember the safety chain</span> to keep the spring from becoming an instrument of death. Next I remove the bolt which goes through the trunnion on the lower A arm and if the brake line is not disconnected I disconnect it. I set the hub, caliper, and disc on the side out of the way. I then move to the top and remove the 4 nuts which hold the pivot arm on without removing the a arms, the pivot arm has to come out because you can not torque the castle nuts in place anyway. It is very hard to remove the back 2 bolts which hold the pivot arm in place but it can be done soak with penetrating oil. Now we have 2 components on the side. Next remove the 4 bolts which hold the lower A arm to the frame, note the holes and number of shims used for alignment. Wiggle the A arms pan and the spring out and shock if you cut the spring out as a unit. Now you can do the rest of the disassembly on the bench and this is much faster. Cutting the spring makes disassembly a lot easier because then you only need the spring compressor for assembly.

You will have to assemble the upper pivot and A arms as a unit then install, it is much easier and you can torque everything correctly. If you clean the bolts and nuts and use anti seize and run the through the nut you can turn them down by hand then tighten rather quickly.

Do you have a ball fork?
 
It looks like I already did a number of things you suggested Safari. I have removed as much as I could to give me more room around the spring. The only hang up I have now is trying to remove the bolt that goes through the lower trunion. I removed the castlenut on this bolt, but it won't budge even if I tap it with a hammer. It looks very rusted. How do I remove this bolt?

Kevin
 
Soak it good with penetrating oil over night, be sure to use a punch/drift and put a bolt on the threaded end so you do not spread the end and get a bigger hammer. You can also get a box end and try to turn the bolt or have some one put pressure on it as you tap. Us another hammer to press against the opposite side you are striking so all the force goes into moving the bolt( Not on the bolt head of course). BTW do one side at a time so you can refer to the other side when you go back together, better than a drawing. Keep working it, it didn't get stuck over night. Best of luck.
 
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