How do I put on fender clips?

[Simon TR4a]

without scratching or chipping the paint?

I am referring to the clips which go on the flange of the fenders, into which the self-tapping screw is threaded to hold the wing or fender in place.
Mine are all painted nicely, but as this is invisible it is rust I am concerned about, not appearance. I could try using a little piece of masking tape or plastic, or using a dab of grease, but I think it is difficult ti spread these things with a screwdriver while putting them on.
Any ideas?
Simon.

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi Simon,

I'd just suggest using a screwdriver to spring the clip open while slipping it onto the fender flange, as you were considering. You might scratch the paint a little in that hidden area, but can touch up if you wish, after the clips are in place.

During the final installation, be sure to use lots of non-hardening seam sealer in that joint to keep water and muck out. I've seen this sort of seam sealer in long rolls that might be the easiest stuff to use. Non-hardening type will allow more easy removal of the fender, should it ever become necessary in the future. You probably already know, also seal up the vertical baffle behind the wheel.

That seam, those clips and screws tend to get a lot of splash and seem to be bad about rusting, so finally a spray of waxoyl or even some good type of undercoating - up from below - might be a good idea, too.

A lot of folks don't like undercoating... but I've recently been removing some I put on my car in 1979 and am finding it worked very well in all the places that count. The only place it didn't stick and was a problem were areas that *didn't* have a fresh clean coat of paint underneath. In other words, it seems to work quite well over fresh, clean surfaces, although I'd bet it's most often applied over dirty old surfaces! I think sprayed on undercoating would be particularly useful well hidden way up in the fender area, on the underside of that seam.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[Simon TR4a]

Thanks Alan, I'll try that.
I have some clear "gravel-guard" which I plan to use rather than the black stuff; that way it looks nice and any rust which may develop will be visible and can be treated.
Simon.

 

[gjh2007]

Simon:

How about using this before final assembly?

LPS 3 Heavy-Duty Inhibitor

<font color="red"> </font> https://www.lpslabs.com/Products/CorrosionInh/Lps3.asp

Size Part No.
11 oz. (312 g.) aerosol 00316
1 gal. (3.78 liters) 03128
5 gal. (18.93 liters) 00305
55 gal. (208 liters) 00355
20 fl. oz. (591 ml.) trigger spray 00322

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Inhibits exfoliation of filiform corrosion of aluminum
<font color="red"> </font>
Penetrates to displace moisture
Resists moisture, sand, dirt, dust and vibration
Does not contain chlorinated solvents or silicone
Nonconductive
Nonstaining
Easily removed with LPS degreasers
Safe on most surfaces
Conforms to MIL-PRF-16173E Grade 2,ASTM F-945,PWA 36604
Qualified per: BMS 3-23 G Type II,TNA.007.10138 Type 1 Grade 2,DMS 2150

and this:

https://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1621&itemType=PRODUCT

3M Flexible Strip Caulk 20 yd

This black, non-hardening, paintable caulk is just the solution for sealing irregular areas in firewalls around heater and air conditioner boxes, lines and wiring harness connectors. Also great for rocker panels, trunks, around tail lights, trim and emblem holes or just about anywhere gaps need to be plugged. Effectively seals out water, dust, and dirt. Duplicates the caulking material used by many auto manufacturers. Made in USA

Item# Product Qty Price


31050 3M Flexible Strip Caulk 20 yd
$14.99