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Hot Stall Problem - A Long-Winded Question

Fishplate

Freshman Member
Offline
This is a long-winded way of asking about ethanol and boiling fuel...

Preface: Every time this has happened, I haven't been in a position to do the normal things to test for spark, etc.

The Setup: Recent hot weather, and the addition of "up to" 10% ethanol in our gas.

The Vehicle: 1976 Spitfire 1500, all stock with NOS OPUS ignition on the car for 2 years.

The Story: A couple of weeks ago, I drove to work, then ran an errand at lunch that required a drive of ~8 miles each way, with a two minute stop to perform the errand. On the way back to the station, the car quit, as if the ignition had been switched off, but the red and green lights were illuminated. I coasted to the side, opened the hood, and poked and jiggled the wires, then got in and it cranked up. "Easy," I said, "a wiring problem." A few miles later, I stop for lunch and the car sits for 20 minutes. After eating, I get about three miles, and the problem repeats. This time, no amount of jiggling gets it going, so I check fuel...pull the hose, and nothing is pumping. after opening the cap and blowing back through the lines, still no flow. "Easy," I said, "dead fuel pump." I get towed home and pull the pump. I got the pumps off the parts cars and compared, the long arm pump worked best, but I drive a short arm car...I took apart the spare short arm pump and cleaned it, and it worked. Then I took the dead pump apart and cleaned it, and it worked again, so I installed it and put the working spare in the trunk.

Fast forward a week or so to another hot day on the way home from work, I stopped at a friend's house to swap some parts...drove about five miles there, and sat for an hour. On the way home, got about three miles, and dead again. This time I have begun to suspect vapor lock and, getting a jug of water from a passing farmer, I pour it over the pump and carb. After 30 seconds of cranking, the car starts and I head home.

Another week passes before I drive it again. It's another 90+ day so this time, I carry a bottle of water. Drive four miles to a friend's house to see his new garage. Spend an hour gawking, and drive home via the grocery store. I only get two miles, and sure enough, it quits. This time I'm not on the gas when it dies, and it seems to lose power a little slower, instead of like being switched off. "I'm a genius,' I think, "I brought water for just this problem." I felt the carb body and the pump before I doused them, both were not particularly hot - I could hold my hand tightly on them without discomfort. But I doused them anyway, and after a bit of cranking, it started up and I drove off...got almost a quarter of a mile. By now there's a rain shower approaching, and I'm tired of fooling around. I call my Lovely Bride and ask her to bring the truck and the tow rope. She arrives five minutes later, and I hook up. She's not an experienced tower, so as she's pulling me across the parking lot, I switch on and after being dragged a hundred feet in second, it cranks up. I unhook the rope, and drive the three miles home...

The Question: I haven't been able to successfully check the spark since my arms aren't long enough, but I think all signs point to a fuel problem...it always seems to happen after it gets warmed up, then hot-soaks for a period of time. Is it possible that the new gasoline formula is boiling faster in the lines, pump or carb and causing it to vapor lock? I've driven this car in hot weather before, without any problem. I suppose the OPUS unit could be failing, but the fact that when it restarts with an extended period of cranking, I feel it's because the bowl is filling after having been emptied.

I suppose my next move would be to bring some ether or a gas can and refill the bowl immediately after it fails and see if it restarts, or bring a passenger to help check for a spark. But finding a volunteer to go for a "Ride to Failure" on a hot day may prove difficult.

Ultimately, I'm curious to see what the group's experience has been with ethanol in gas. I've also noticed that when cold, the car seems harder to start and sometimes runs like a John Deere 620 until it warms up a bit. These could be gasoline-related, or related to the real problem that I only blame on the gasoline...

Any opinions?
 
Jeff said:
Any opinions?

Where ethanol is concerned, nothing postable from me. :smirk:
 
Do you have a fuel filter that may need changing? If not, can you get some relief from the problem by loosening the gas cap?
 
is the coil near the fuel pump? maybe it is the coil that is overheating and splashing the water around cools off the coil?
 
I have had this same thing happen with my TR3. Went to New Orleans for the show. Left the show and went back to the motel. Came back out about 30 min. later went about 100 yards it started acting like a vapor problem in carbs that I would get sometimes but it quit. Tried starting it would hit and quit. Pulled fuel line off carbs was not getting any fuel. Started to change pump. When fuel line from tank to pump was off no fuel came out even with almost a full tank and the shut off valve was no in off. Looked in tank and could not see anything blocking the outlet of the tank. Blew through line back to tank it was hard the it went easy and I could hear bubbles. Quit blowing and fuel starting coming out line strong like it should have. Reinstalled all lines and started up and went on my way. Since I have had the car back on the roads in the last 10 years there has always been a vapor problem when it would set for sometime on hot days but it would always clear up before I would start to move. Yesterday I had the samething happen when in New Orleans. Pulled the line off from pump to tank and no fuel. Blew through and fuel started coming out. Reinstalled lines. Drove home 15 miles in stop and go traific with out any problems. Got home and put the car on jack stands and also was hoping that the vapor lock would happen while moving things to get in the shop but it did not. Lool all around were the fuel line go but could not see any reason for a vapor lock caused by the exhaust system. The 2 things that I have found in common for both times this has happen. Fuel was bought at a none brand station and asphalt parking lots. My Drive way at home is concrete. The car club I am in one of the members has Peirce Arrows and goes all over the country. He was in Ohio this year with the Peirce Arrow group and said that alot of them had problems with vapor lock with the ethanol fuel and being on asphalt roads at slow speeds. He talked about installing a electric fuel pump and turn it on when he is in this position again. I have just finish installed and pump at the tank to push the fuel so I will be find out at some point it this takes care of the vapor lock issue for me. Thinking back is seems that the vapor lock only happens on blacktop surfaces. These do retain the heat more than concrete. I know I have felt the differenc on concrete and blacktop when I have been on my motorcycle traveling. Will let you all know how thing work for me.
 
hi jeff, this to me does not sound like a fuel vapor issue and ill tell you why. i have a tr6 and it gets hot as heck under the hood and i have changed to su carbs with the float bowl on the sides of the carbs. i have no problems when its running but when i let it sit for a bit and the fuel gets nice and hot the only problem i have is it takes some extra cranking to get started. it never cuts out and my floats get hotter than yours, as in its hard to hold your hand on them they are so hot, this is after sitting for a few minutes. it sounds like you have a coil problem maybe or the opus would be my bet. i worked in a restoration shop and the opus ignition on the mgb's is notoreous for going bad. im not saying its not a fuel problem but it doesnt sound like it and its definitly not just from the ethanol and heat. i bet your ignition is getting too hot, weather its the coil or the opus. i would change the coil to start and see where that gets you, cant hurt and it rules that out.
Randy
 
I agree, it may well be a fuel delivery problem, but I don't think it's plain ol' vapour lock... I'd expect to see that on restart, not while driving at speed.

Could be a number of things, or a combination... has it ever happened when it's not 90 deg. plus?

Is your gas tank venting?

Obstruction somewhere in the fuel system?

Maybe also an electrical gremlin thrown in there for good measure? Hey, there's a reason those Opus systems are extinct... :wink:
 
Duncan said:
Hey, there's a reason those Opus systems are extinct... :wink:

Saynomore.

FIRST move IMHO would be to toss the Opus o'er th' side and try either a points or Crane iggy system.
 
OK OK Whats an OPUS system?

Tinkerman
 
OPUS is the electronic ignition system fitted to Spitfires after about 1975 - a big epoxy-potted box attached to the distributor. It's final incarnation (post-1978) was a remote electronics package which had a readily-available GM electronic module hidden inside! I wish I could find one of those distributors to put my advance mechanism in...

I didn't mention, but I tried a spare coil with no joy. I suspect the ignition, but the fact that no fuel pumps while it's dead leads me the other way toward a fuel problem. It only happened since ambient temps went above 85F and 10% Ethanol began appearing at the local gasoline pump.

My plan is to head out with some tools, a can of ether and a bottle of gas, and possibly a spare distributor. Once I manage to break it, I can be prepared with a remote start switch to check for spark, gas flow, etc. I reckon I better get a new battery first, though, the old one is getting weak from all the cranking...

Thanks for the input!
 
If when you pull the hose off the carbs you're not getting fuel delivery as you crank it then you have a blockage (which could be vapor lock) in the fuel lines to the pump, or a dud pump.
Does the spit have a vented gas cap? if so is it blocked; if it doesn't then the venting will be via the charcoal cannister which could also be blocked; simple test, leave the gas cap open when you have trouble.

BTW, do you really live at a place called "Corrosion Acres, Ga" if so then you REALLY belong on this forum, welcome aboard!
 
Your weakest link is always the electrical ignition system. check there first. Fuel systems are more reliable. As I was reading your situations I was thinking coil too.
 
I have use my TR3 a couple times after installing a electric fuel pump. Have come back 30 min. after setting. Started and would get the stubbling on start from the heat soaked carbs. Turned on fuel pump and couple seconds it cleared up and was running like normal. Before it was many seconds and alot of pump throttle before it would clear up. Will have to not turn pump on at some point to see when I would get the vapor lock in the line from tank and see if this will clear the vapor lock. The vapor lock problem I have had 2 times should be fixed with the pump mount at the tank.

Don
 
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